L3940 - Order Spec - Tell me what I'm missing

[Maibox]

To give you an idea of the property, here's a shot looking out our front window. You can just make out the barn on the right and the Mississippi at the top of the frame.

The pasture in the view is about 1.5 acres including an overgrown .5 acre part at the far end. The area that is "fenced" (and I use that term loosely) is about 4 acres. The pasture around the barn is 1.5 acres. Behind the house the land climbs 300' over linear 1000' so won't be doing much back in there.

 

[Chilly807]

The goal, as with most things, is a performance to price assessment to come up with value. I will not be a "power user" so to speak. This will be my first real tractor and I work 60-70 hours a week at my real job (not counting a 40 min drive each way) so I'm looking for something that is functional and easy to use for what "playtime" I have. This is a big investment for what amounts to a stress reliever (one my wife doesn't completely understand as you can hire out a lot of work for $32k). That said, I don't want to regret aspects of the purchase and I want something that I can grow into using as I get more comfortable, so I certainly appreciate all the advice.

Right now I'm thinking I'll go with the 48 in grapple saving $300 and use that to go with the 2684 blade (effectively a cost neutral move that should overall get me more performance).

If your primary use of the blade is going to be snow removal and some moderate dirt use, I think it's a good choice. A bit of extra weight and stiffness over the 15 or 16 series to reduce chatter won't go astray. Being able to easily add hydraulics in the future is a big plus. Skid shoes are an option as well..

If it ever stops snowing and blowing here, I'll put mine to use this evening!

Sean

 

[MtnViewRanch]

To give you an idea of the property, here's a shot looking out our front window. You can just make out the barn on the right and the Mississippi at the top of the frame.

View attachment 295387

Soooooo, where's that bright orange thing that we have all been talking about? Great view by the way.

 

[Maibox]

If things go smoothy will be here in 2-3 weeks. I'm not in a huge hurry - it's 7 degrees today.:cold: (BTW-I'd go cab but given the amount of time in the woods and knowing me, cab would be wrecked within a week...).

 

[PHILIP8N]

For snow removal, I do not think the heavy duty blades are necessary. The extra weight is good for digging into the dirt, but if you are using it on black top for snow removal only, it is not needed. When I have to work dirt, I use a 1000 pound box blade. I used a rear blade for years on black top (then got smart and some extra money and got a front blade), and if you are not careful, an extra heavy rear blade can scrap, mark, and tear up a black top driveway. As for the cab, I opted not to get one. Just like you, I am sure I would tear it up, plus, I like the open air and unobstrucred view an open station tractor offers. Easy to get on and off, hook up implements, etc. Just dress warm! Good luck, Philip.

 

[Maibox]

@PHILIP8N--I see you have the 1584 with a L3940. I assume no real issues based on your post? Do you see any benefit to the 2684?

 

[94BULLITT]

The L3940 is right in the middle of the rating of the 2684. It is at the max for the 1684. A problem waiting to happen IMO. No hydraulic angling for the 35 series though. :confused2:

I went through this myself with my first new tractor. Took the dealer advice for a rear blade. Bent it THE FIRST TIME that I used it. Told the dealer about it and they would do nothing about it, said that I must have abused it and that warranty would not cover abuse. That was a $1000, 680lb blade rated for a 60hp tractor put behind a 9000lb 75hp machine. IT WAS NOT A GOOD MATCH. The real killer was that I had questioned the dealer about it and was told that it would be fine. Anyway, lesson almost learned, I made the same mistake 1 more time with a landscape rake.

I went to a dealer and told them I wanted a blade for a 8N, they sold me a Woods RB72. It was rated for tractors up to 40hp. I bent it the first time I used it. I straightened it and fixed the area were it cracked a weld. I bought a Bobcat CT235 from the same dealer and I asked if that blade would be good enough and they said yes that is what we sell for that size tractor. I put it on the Bobcat and just pulling it across the ground in 2WD you could see the moldboard flexing. What would it have done if it was tilted and offset? I ended up getting rid of it and getting a Tuffline GB4, which I am now trying to sell. I have a Woods HBL84 on the L4240 and I would not want any less. I know a guy that just bought a New Hollnad T5050, that is where I got my HBL84. The dealer sold him a HBBL96 for it, a 100hp tractor! I told him it would not be enough blade for it but he would not listen.

I really don't know how they rate this stuff, it is not all about HP. What about weight, tire type, and 2WD or 4WD. If you go buy the ratings you could run it on a M6040. In the real world I doubt a L5740 would pull that blade too much better than a L3940, there is only 300lbs difference between the two. I really don't like that the moldboard does not have any bracing. I can see it getting twisted or bent easily.

I would rather have something that is a little bit overkill that have something too light duty and have to use it cautiously.

 

[PHILIP8N]

I had a TSC King Kutter piece of poop that I used with the 8N, bent it several times. I used the 1584 with the 8N (with chains and tire ballast) for 2 seasons, worked great. I only used the 1584 on the L3940 for 1 season in conjunction with my front blade, no issues. Now I run a 1200 pound ballast box on the 3 point with my front blade, so the 1584 does not see alot of use now. If you are mainly doing snow removal, the 1584 will be fine. I suggest a hydraulic top link so you can adjust from the seat how you want the blade to dig, if you are just removing snow, less aggressive, if you need to remove a layer of ice, more aggressive. Philip.

 

[94BULLITT]

If things go smoothy will be here in 2-3 weeks. I'm not in a huge hurry - it's 7 degrees today.:cold: (BTW-I'd go cab but given the amount of time in the woods and knowing me, cab would be wrecked within a week...).

Go for a cab and you won't regret it. The cab model is actually a little shorter than a ROPS. Just buy yourself a nice polesaw and keep the branches trimmed back on your roads in the woods. I'm the type of guy that doesn't even like to scrub the ROPS with a branch so a cab doesn't bother me at all. You can go out on a cold day and not worry about freezing.

 

[Maibox]

Just buy yourself a nice polesaw and keep the branches trimmed back on your roads in the woods.

There are no roads... just overgrown pasture with a mix of 3-6 inch trees and 8-10 inchers with a few big ones.

 

[94BULLITT]

There are no roads... just overgrown pasture with a mix of 3-6 inch trees and 8-10 inchers with a few big ones.

Build some.

 

[Buppies]

As you get older you may wish for a cab. As others have said the heavier the blade the better in my opinion. I had a 35-06 and in 20in of snow was unsatisfactory and went to the 50-07. The added weight made life much easier did not tear up driveway and would not raise up after pushing 50 ft or so. Only wish now had hydro angling. Being almost 60 yrs old and having diabetes the cab keeps me warm in the winter. Four acres of our land is grass 17 acres is in trees. Just trimmed up the limbs so far no damage to cab. Just my two cents

 

[MHarryE]

Back at the start I see tires filled with water/methane and a request for comments. Is that right - fill with water and an explosive gas? Or was it meant to be a water/methanol mixture? Since you are storing in a heated building I assume it won't be outside long enough to freeze but I have only heard of people in the north filling with beet juice or CaCl. I upgraded from an open platform to a cab mostly because of either being too cold or too hot but also to keep from getting swatted by branches. Yes, my mirrors get swatted back all the time and the rear flashers got replaced by mag mounts when they were knocked off, but no more poked eyes or comments in town that my wife beat me up again because of all the scratches and bruises on my face. I have got by with a 7' back blade for snow for 10 years but you have heavier snows down in the south than we have up here 100 miles north of Duluth. I keep looking for used truck plows at auctions but have never found anything decent that didn't go for more than my budget.

 

[Maibox]

It is methanol. Autocorrect got me. I think it's good to -15 so should be okay.

 

[IslandTractor]

It is methanol. Auocorrect got me. I think it's good to -15 so should be okay.

Even lower than -15F depending on concentration.

 

[Maibox]

So my dealer has a Dirt Dog 5007 rear blade on his lot for initial offer of $800 (same as the Bush Hog 5007: http://www.bushhog.com/images/stories/documents/manuals/RMB35_50.pdf). It can't be easily upgraded to hydraulic angle like the LP RB2684 but it looks to have a nice offset adjustment (which I'd use a lot, I think, to get snow off the drive) vs. manually unbolting the moldboard on the LP2684 to get an offset. The Dirt Dog is 455 lbs vs 396 lbs for the LP2684. Moldboards are same thickness but LP is 1.5 inches taller (17.5 vs 16). LP has more angle adjustments. I believe the LP is about $1,000. The Dirt Dog is red, in case you think matching tractor color is important...

Thoughts?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

So my dealer has a Dirt Dog 5007 rear blade on his lot for initial offer of $800 (same as the Bush Hog 5007: http://www.bushhog.com/images/stories/documents/manuals/RMB35_50.pdf). It can't be easily upgraded to hydraulic angle like the LP RB2684 but it looks to have a nice offset adjustment (which I'd use a lot, I think, to get snow off the drive) vs. manually unbolting the moldboard on the LP2684 to get an offset. The Dirt Dog is 455 lbs vs 396 lbs for the LP2684. Moldboards are same thickness but LP is 1.5 inches taller (17.5 vs 16). LP has more angle adjustments. I believe the LP is about $1,000. The Dirt Dog is red, in case you think matching tractor color is important...

Thoughts?

The non hydraulic angling is why I did not recommend the Land Pride 35 series which is basically the same as what you are now looking at. Yes the offset is BY FAR better, but with only manual angling available I figured that it was off the table. :confused3:

I personally do not like the press bent blades, not that there is anything wrong with them, I just prefer the roll formed blades.

Just out of curiosity, how much would a Land Pride RBT3584 add to your payment? That is the ultimate blade in this size IMO. Price it out with and with out hydraulics and be sure to get the skid shoes. At 0% spread out over 60 months may not be all that bad. You won't know without asking.

 

[Chilly807]

I liked the looks of the DD 5007 blade when I looked a couple days ago. As for the hydraulics, if you are going to start welding ( most of us did after a short period of tractor ownership !) it's a good project when the time is ready. The weight is a plus, and the offset adjustment on the Land Pride blades (unbolt type anyway) is a PIA. I just adjust my lift arms all the way to one side to get a fair bit of offset.

It's a trade off in a lot of respects. You have to look at which features are more important to you. Before I added the hydraulics to mine, I didn't use more than a couple different angles anyway. Even now, it's often either straight or all the way to one side or another. Fine adjustment is good if you're trying to get a driveway nice and level (gravel), but snow is usually shoved as far to one side as you can get it and be done with it.

Land Pride has a really good name, and you pay for that too.

Sean

 

[Maibox]

Thanks for the input. I'm guessing my blade will be used 90+% for snow. I'd offset right, angle 15 or 30 and go down the drive way and back up. I have some parking areas where I'll likely push in reverse. To be honest, I doubt I'll start welding anytime soon--I'd more likely pay someone or trade some work. For the heck of it, I threw an email to the dealer on the LP RBT3584 just to see what they'd do on it.

 

[94BULLITT]

So my dealer has a Dirt Dog 5007 rear blade on his lot for initial offer of $800 (same as the Bush Hog 5007: http://www.bushhog.com/images/stories/documents/manuals/RMB35_50.pdf). It can't be easily upgraded to hydraulic angle like the LP RB2684 but it looks to have a nice offset adjustment (which I'd use a lot, I think, to get snow off the drive) vs. manually unbolting the moldboard on the LP2684 to get an offset. The Dirt Dog is 455 lbs vs 396 lbs for the LP2684. Moldboards are same thickness but LP is 1.5 inches taller (17.5 vs 16). LP has more angle adjustments. I believe the LP is about $1,000. The Dirt Dog is red, in case you think matching tractor color is important...

Thoughts?

The problem with that blade is you will have to pay interest on it if you include it in the loan. If you have $800 cash to buy it I would look for a good used blade. You should be able to find a very nice one for $800. Offsetting is okay but if you have a good wet snow it will pull the tractor sideways. I don't know if being able to angle alot is real important especially in the snow. The more you angle the narrow the blade get, it cuts down on the width. You would need a real wide blade at 45* to be as wide as the tractor. The more you angle the blade the easier it is for the snow to pull you sideways. Most truck plows only angle 30*.