L3400 won't start - what might be wrong?

[aarobyn]

Two weeks ago is the last time I used my L3400. It was fine then. Today it won't start. It doesn't even attempt to start. Here are the symptoms:

• Lights/blinkers won't turn on
• With the key in, turning it to the left does nothing (no lights on dash, etc)
• Turning the key to start does absolutely nothing
• Turning the key to the spot to the right of off, but not all the way to start makes some sort of whining/humming sound like it's trying to do something but it can't

I checked the battery - 12 volts

I looked around for obvious mouse damage and couldn't find any (there could be non-obvious damage somewhere I guess)

I looked for any obvious maintenance issues and all I can find is that the coolant needs to be topped off and that the filters could be cleaned (it was due for that in a couple of hours anyway).

This L3400 is ~ 3.5 years old and only has 78 hrs on it. It's used mostly for mowing (brush hogging) and moving dirt and rocks around. I also knock down small diameter trees with it but nothing too big.

Since it wasn't the battery, I'm just lost as to what's wrong. Can anyone give me an idea as to what to look at next? I'd rather not drag it into the dealer unless I have to.

Thanks!

- Aaron

 

[grsthegreat]

It could still be the battery. what does the volt meter say when you try to start it. A battery starts with amps not volts.

Can you try to jumpstart it??

Just a thought. the humming in the begining screams battery issue

 

[camer]

Try cleaning your battery post and ground cable.

 

[k0ua]

Reading battery voltage with no load, does not tell the whole story. to know if the battery is good, put the lead directly on the battery post. Not the clamp connections, directly on the post's have someone try to start the tractor, anything less than 10.5 or 11 volts indicates either a bad battery (high internal resistance, or sulphated) or a shorted/draggy starter. But since your relays may not even click. or the starter engage, you need to know if it is the battery, or high resistance/ connection or something. else. So run the battery voltage test again. if it is good, in other words it doesnt drop below about 11 volts. then put the leads on the clamp connections and read it there. if it is very low there, then by all means clean/repair the connections. You have found you high resistance problem. If voltages are all good when attempting a start, but starter will not engage, then battery voltage is not getting to the starter or the return path is high resistance/open. so look for bad grounds. follow that with all the safety switches in the path to engaging the start relay. BUT when you said a humming sound, I bet its the battery dropping under load and you are hearing a relay trying to pull in. Thats where I would start, back on the battery. Please post back.

James K0UA

 

[aarobyn]

Thanks for the replies. I can't get back to it right now, but I'll have a chance to take another look at it Sunday afternoon and I'll try all your suggestions.

Thanks!

- Aaron

 

[BeezFun]

If it's got 12v at battery but no instrument panel lights, I'd suspect the switch. Maybe try jumping the starter just to see if it turns over.

 

[LD1]

BATTERY.

If the Flashers AND the dash lights do not work, it is either a battery or battery connection (ie: post connections, ground, etc.) The flashers do NOT run through the switch, so thats not a possible problem.

And you need a GOOD meter. Because 12 volts DC is a DEAD battery. 12.6-12.7V is 100% charge. SO if you are only seeing 12v, the battery IS DEAD. And a really low reading like 8-9V indicates a junk battery. (sulfated)

Do as others have mentioned and clean the posts/terminals, and put a charger on it and see what happens

 

[leonz]

Two weeks ago is the last time I used my L3400. It was fine then. Today it won't start. It doesn't even attempt to start. Here are the symptoms:

• Lights/blinkers won't turn on
• With the key in, turning it to the left does nothing (no lights on dash, etc)
• Turning the key to start does absolutely nothing
• Turning the key to the spot to the right of off, but not all the way to start makes some sort of whining/humming sound like it's trying to do something but it can't

I checked the battery - 12 volts

I looked around for obvious mouse damage and couldn't find any (there could be non-obvious damage somewhere I guess)

I looked for any obvious maintenance issues and all I can find is that the coolant needs to be topped off and that the filters could be cleaned (it was due for that in a couple of hours anyway).

This L3400 is ~ 3.5 years old and only has 78 hrs on it. It's used mostly for mowing (brush hogging) and moving dirt and rocks around. I also knock down small diameter trees with it but nothing too big.

Since it wasn't the battery, I'm just lost as to what's wrong. Can anyone give me an idea as to what to look at next? I'd rather not drag it into the dealer unless I have to.

Thanks!

- Aaron

AH YESSSSSHHHH!!!!!!! As Mooch from the Mutts Comic Strip would say.


The dreaded dead cell in the battery has raised it ugly head in the Kubota Owning and operating forum again today.

Aaron go out and buy the biggest Cold Cranking Amperage battery "CCA" with filler caps you can fit in the battery tray, a new pair of terminal ends and a bottle of "Copper Shield" from an electrical supply store to protect the terminal ends.

And lastly but most important REMOVE THE DAM BATTERY when you do not intend to use the orange beast over long periods and trickle charge it with any brand of small 12 volt battery charger one a month.

YEESSHHH!!!!

 

[mkane09]

HST? Pedal centered?

mkane09

 

[LD1]

HST? Pedal centered?

mkane09

That wouldn't prevent the flashers from working

 

[aarobyn]

Results so far:

Posts - dusty, but no corrosion
Clamps - same as the posts

I attached the battery to a fully charged portable charger / jump-starter (no way to get my car back where the tractor is at). I tried to jump the battery - no change in results.

Battery voltage post-charger/jumper attempt was a full 12.55V at the posts and the clamps. After a couple starting attempts (no jumper involved), the battery dropped below 12.3V.

Battery voltage while attempting to start the tractor w/o the jumper started at 2.5V and quickly dropped below 2V. That's got to be a problem based on the advice saying it should stay at ~10-11V at this point.

Action Item: Replace the battery

Conclusion: It doesn't matter if it's a Kubota, Honda, or Kia. OEM batteries from Asian manufacturers are crap (I've had them all fail on me much earlier than expected).

Question for the guy who said disconnect the battery when not using it: How long of a non-use period are you talking about? I typically use the tractor every 1-3 weeks in the summer and 2-4 weeks in the winter. Most usage periods are 45min-2hrs in length.

 

[k0ua]

Results so far:

Posts - dusty, but no corrosion
Clamps - same as the posts

I attached the battery to a fully charged portable charger / jump-starter (no way to get my car back where the tractor is at). I tried to jump the battery - no change in results.

Battery voltage post-charger/jumper attempt was a full 12.55V at the posts and the clamps. After a couple starting attempts (no jumper involved), the battery dropped below 12.3V.

Battery voltage while attempting to start the tractor w/o the jumper started at 2.5V and quickly dropped below 2V. That's got to be a problem based on the advice saying it should stay at ~10-11V at this point.

Action Item: Replace the battery

Conclusion: It doesn't matter if it's a Kubota, Honda, or Kia. OEM batteries from Asian manufacturers are crap (I've had them all fail on me much earlier than expected).

Question for the guy who said disconnect the battery when not using it: How long of a non-use period are you talking about? I typically use the tractor every 1-3 weeks in the summer and 2-4 weeks in the winter. Most usage periods are 45min-2hrs in length.

Ok looks like you have found your problem. bad battery, it's what everyone expected, including me. Now as for the OEM Kubota battery. Well mine in my old B7500 was original and 8 years old and still starting fine when I traded it off last june. that said I have seen batterys last 10 years, and I have seen batterys last 2 years. I just think you get a bad one now and then. My B7500 often sat over a month without starting in the winter, never a problem. A small solar charger in a window and hooked to your battery should alleviate any fears if you have a lot of periods of inactivity. I do have one on my lawn tractor for over the winter period, as I dont use it at all in the winter. They are about $25. Good luck going forward, and glad you have it diagnosed.

James K0UA

 

[leonz]

I am certainly glad you found the problem,


If you were going to leave the tractor unattended

for weeks at a time it would be easier to disconnect

the hot side of the battery or cheat and buy a knife

gate kill switch which would disconnect the hot side cable

from the battery and avoid battery drain.


Just be sure to have your jump pack with you as a

matter of maintaining a fits all tool kit.

 

[aarobyn]

New battery did the trick.

I got thrown initially by the battery reading 12V and the lights not working at all. Usually in a car I can still get some (dim) lights going even when the battery isn't strong enough to start the car.

Sidenote - the battery case was bulged out slightly, but it was so light on fluid that it sloshed around while I as carrying it. I'm starting to suspect that the splash of cold weather we had last winter (down to -28F) may have had an impact on it (thankfully I happened to be on vacation in Florida that week).

Anyway, thanks to all of you for chiming in and steering me back to the battery as the problem!

 

[dilligaf241]

Please pick up a battery tender from auto zone or someplace. Well worth the money and will double or triple the life of batteries. They are not trickle chargers. They will allow the battery to discharge and then recharge and they say that they also send a unique pulsing of electricity to help prevent them from forming corrosion inside the batter that causes dead cells. I started using them because of a couple of vehicles that sat for long periods of time and having to replace the batteries way too often. Haven't replaced one since. About $40 but are well worth it. I now have 4 of them.