L Series owners
- Thread starter Hagalaz14w
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I love my L2501 - it's been a tank and seems to hit a sweet spot of capability and price.
Our 5 year payments will be done in another 10 months and the wife and I are trying to figure out what kind of equipment to get it for a playmate. We have a Kawasaki Mule and an electric golf cart.
I was thinking maybe a BX23S could get in horse stalls but I need to double check the width of all our doors - we're a horse boarding facility with ~90 stalls. Besides the size and backhoe it wouldn't add any more utility than the L2501 except that they could both be used at the same time. To get any more capability though I'm looking at a much higher price - the L2501 was about $20K and a bigger MX would be in the ~$45K range with all the bells (no whistles) that I would want.
What is the point of this rambling? The L2501 spoiled me on price point! It does an incredible job for what it is and to get any more out of it would cost a lot more, and going smaller doesn't cost you much less.
Our 5 year payments will be done in another 10 months and the wife and I are trying to figure out what kind of equipment to get it for a playmate. We have a Kawasaki Mule and an electric golf cart.
I was thinking maybe a BX23S could get in horse stalls but I need to double check the width of all our doors - we're a horse boarding facility with ~90 stalls. Besides the size and backhoe it wouldn't add any more utility than the L2501 except that they could both be used at the same time. To get any more capability though I'm looking at a much higher price - the L2501 was about $20K and a bigger MX would be in the ~$45K range with all the bells (no whistles) that I would want.
What is the point of this rambling? The L2501 spoiled me on price point! It does an incredible job for what it is and to get any more out of it would cost a lot more, and going smaller doesn't cost you much less.
Hi other L owners. I have a L3400 HST, with ~900 hours on it. Tractor is awesome, most of the time. I use it primarily for harrowing our horse arenas, moving lots of gravel, and mowing.
I am running into an issue that I can't resolve, but perhaps someone could help shed some insight. The tractor randomly cuts out power and cuts back in occasionally when I'm using it. Like flipping a light switch, it happens very fast. Its like it turns off and then back on in a 1-second blip. There is no rhyme or reason, random speeds, load, rpm, etc. I thought it was a fuel issue originally, I had run the tank dry by accident once (fuel gauge iffy as everyone else notes), and thought maybe I sucked some debris into the fuel lines. Cleaned everything up, but doesn't seem to be the issue. I think it could be electrical but I'm really not sure, that is out of my expertise.
Has anyone else had a similar issue with their L? Any help would be greatly appreciated. All in all the tractor is a workhorse and I love it.
I am running into an issue that I can't resolve, but perhaps someone could help shed some insight. The tractor randomly cuts out power and cuts back in occasionally when I'm using it. Like flipping a light switch, it happens very fast. Its like it turns off and then back on in a 1-second blip. There is no rhyme or reason, random speeds, load, rpm, etc. I thought it was a fuel issue originally, I had run the tank dry by accident once (fuel gauge iffy as everyone else notes), and thought maybe I sucked some debris into the fuel lines. Cleaned everything up, but doesn't seem to be the issue. I think it could be electrical but I'm really not sure, that is out of my expertise.
Has anyone else had a similar issue with their L? Any help would be greatly appreciated. All in all the tractor is a workhorse and I love it.
s219
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Sounds like a safety switch, possibly the seat switch but any of them can cause this symptom. For example, if I am moving and lean over in the seat to look at something, the engine will cut out, but I can sit back quickly and the engine will come back to life, so it's just a brief blip less than 1 second.
You might want to check all the safety switches to make sure none of them are loose or have an obvious wiring problem. From there, you might need to try to wiggle them while underway to see if you can recreate the problem, or jumper across them to eliminate the problem (would be a slower way to conclude anything if this is an intermittent problem).
Just based on my experience I'd start with the seat switch. It's pretty sensitive. It doesn't take much movement to trigger it and I can see it happening from age, wear & tear, slop in the seat, etc.
Thanks for the insight, I suspected that could be the case as well. I will check the safetys and see if there is anything obvious jumps out.
One other thought was possibly we have a bad fuel stop solenoid. We checked the resistance compared to spec and it was within specs, and we cleaned all the ground connections, but the problem still persists.
We will check the safetys and go from there, thanks @s219 !
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
Safety switches can be a pain to diagnose.
Fallon
Super Member
As noted, if it's power off like a light switch, look for the faulty switch or wiring. It's probably a safety switch. Seat is the most likely by a good margin but it could also be a PTO switch or go pedal switch. I think clutch switches only are relevant for starting. Go pedal is probably wired in series with the seat switch.
The Deerslayer
Platinum Member
As others have said, could be the safety switch. Had the same symptoms with my L3901 shortly after delivery and determined it was the safety switch. One zip tie later and the problem was rectified. Hope that is all that it is with yours. Good luck.
sixdogs
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I have an L4300, which is pretty much the same tractor. Mine has a pull rod to shut the fuel off and I could see that causing the problem. There needs to be enough "slop" in the rod so it doesn't accidentally shut off the tractor. A check of the fuel filer is also a good idea.
Recoveryhill
Gold Member
L4700SU HST since 2010. Rock solid. Only two problems are range selector, I just leave it in Middle Range and PTO control cable which I have replaced twice, wouldn't go from PTO on to PTO off. I've found that if I shut the machine down with clutch depressed and let cutter spool down before releasing clutch, disconnect the PTO shaft and when I start back up with a non PTO implement, the PTO soon disengages.
IrishLoader
Silver Member
Pretty sure it's a 2000 model year, only had 1091 on the ticker so barley broke in.
GrumpyL5030
Member
Looks like I'm a little late to this dance. I see this thread started about 12 years ago. Anyway, I just brought home an L5030 that was built in 2003. I look forward to learning some things about this machine as it's the newest tractor I've ever used. In particular, the 3 point hitch on it is different than any I've experienced before. I've never seen one with hydraulic rams sandwiching the top link connection bars on the tractor. It needed a new top link due to the one came with it is bent, so I grabbed one at TSC with some new pins. I found out the pins I bought are too long to install the top link due to the interference of the cylinders being there. I'd love some advice on which pins work the best on this design. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
sixdogs
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I had that issue on my L4300 and others over the years and found that a shorter pin and lifting the arms during installation solved the problem. My factory OEM pins also fit and I feel safer with those stronger pins. More expensive, however. I can take pics of the different pins if you want.
A 12 year old thread is no big deal. Ask and ye shall generally receive.
A 12 year old thread is no big deal. Ask and ye shall generally receive.
GrumpyL5030
Member
Thank you sixdogs. Pictures would be a huge help. I stopped by the tractor store again tonight to try to find another option. I'm getting more confused every time I look at them. This tractor can use cat1 or cat2 size top link ends and pins. I found some shorter pins that are theaded on one end with jam nuts with the insert (smooth) end for a lynch pin. I tried a smaller diameter pin with a sleeve but that was too small and was loose in the top link. Other sleeve/pin combos wouldn't work due to sleeve O.D. being the same size as the link end. I'm ready to fab something myself if I don't find a solution. I appreciate your help sixdogs.
GrumpyL5030
Member
Call off the dogs! I actually had a day off to look at the tractor in the daylight. The solution revealed itself instantly. Looking at the top link connection point at night didn't show the hydraulic cylinder covers are plastic and simple to remove with a 10mm wrench. Once that's done and with the lift arms up, a standard 3.5" pin goes right in. I feel like an idiot that I missed that detail, but at least I'm a happy idiot for now
. Thanks for the guidance sixdogs.sixdogs
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Glad it had a happy ending. For others that encounter this in the future and maybe even without the lift cylinders, the farm store Chinese toplink pin will usually not work. What always will work is the OEM pin. Messics has them in stock and pricy at $12 or $24, depending on model.I suspect they are that expensive because other pins often don't fit and you have to go OEM. I do in my L4300.Call off the dogs! I actually had a day off to look at the tractor in the daylight. The solution revealed itself instantly. Looking at the top link connection point at night didn't show the hydraulic cylinder covers are plastic and simple to remove with a 10mm wrench. Once that's done and with the lift arms up, a standard 3.5" pin goes right in. I feel like an idiot that I missed that detail, but at least I'm a happy idiot for now
Here's pic of an OEM pin below.
Below is a farm store one that may or may not fit, usually not..
GrumpyL5030
Member
I used the one that's in your 2nd photo. Seems OK, but I'll check out the original type too.
Thanks!
Thanks!
sixdogs
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If it fits, it's OK.
Edit--not totally OK because I've had a cheap upper link pin break and nearly flip me over. Metal flaw.
If you ever use a backhoe with a toplink pin, it better be a super duty one of the grade the manufacturer calls for. If one of those breaks under load it could snap the backhoe back and squeeze you or your noggin against the ROPS frame. On my JD790 with a backhoe, Deere actually sells a ROPS height extender to double protect against a catastrophic pin failure.
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