Kubota L3301 issues

[Reddogs]

I just acquired a Kubota L3301 Gear Drive Transmission., 3rd Function valve with grapple, with R1 tires. I want to know what issues I should look out for, and what implements I should add and costs, as I would like to farm and use for land clearing.

 

[5030]

Not really large enough for any serious farming. Not enough weight or pto power. Hobby farming or small plot farming, certainly but that is about it.

 

[Reddogs]

I am seeing that, I was looking at the L3901, but wouldnt I still have much of the same issues.

 

[5030]

Still a lightweight. I'd be looking at the M series if you plan on doing any serious dirt engagement work.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

Farming is a very broad term. What do you want to "farm" and how much of it? A lot of people like a grapple for the loader for moving brush. Is that what you mean with land clearing? Any tractor is better than no tractor for outside work. It all depends on what you are wanting to do.

 

[rScotty]

I just acquired a Kubota L3301 Gear Drive Transmission., 3rd Function valve with grapple, with R1 tires. I want to know what issues I should look out for, and what implements I should add and costs, as I would like to farm and use for land clearing.

Nice tractor & nice size. That combo and a gear transmission in a common rail engine makes it economical and darn near bulletproof. The tractor data specs show it will lift a ton at the 3pt ends and a thousand pounds in the bucket. That is some serious lifting.

Depending on how much land you want to work, if you are wanting to work 20 plus acres of cropland, then you may eventually also get an old larger 2wd Ag machine just for ground engaging work.
Not that the 3301 wouldn't do it, it just does it slower.

You asked about the extra hp of the L3901. My opinion - and it's just an opinion - is that the specs show the L3901 is really only 4 or 5 hp more on the same frame. More hp is always nice, but a little hp by itself isn't going to change what kind of work can be done. We all like more hp, and it might speed the work up by 10%, but that isn't what tractors are about. I think I'd go for the lower stress on the engine & just open the throttle when I want more power. You have enough for that frame size.

I'm betting that you keep that 3301 for a long time doing all the thousand and one jobs around your place. It's got enough power and size to do serious work and still be handy.

Oh.. for other implements. Get a few when they come up. You'll eventually accumulate a lot of them. We all do. Don't be afraid of used implements, that's a good place to save money.
rScotty

 

[jeff9366]

Still a lightweight. I'd be looking at the M series if you plan on doing any serious dirt engagement work.

YES.

Deere 790 has a bare tractor weight of around 2,100 pounds.
The Kubota L3301 has a bare tractor weight of around 2,700 pounds. The bare weight of an open station Kubota M-series tractor commences at 4,700 pounds.

I just acquired a Kubota L3301 Gear Drive Transmission, 3rd Function valve with grapple, with R1 tires. I want to know what issues I should look out for, and what implements I should add and costs, as I would like to farm and use for land clearing.

Subcompact and compact tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in landscape, kitchen/commercial garden or hobby farm applications on one to ten flat acres.

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

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IMPLEMENTS​

https://www.lsuagcenter.com/~/media/system/e/6/6/e/e66ed13be4f5a5216aa214276e14dacb/pub2917tractorimplements1.pdf

Buckeye Tractor Co -- Online

Manufacturer of specialty equipment for production of vegetables, fruit and flowers. Some nursury and landscaping applications.

www.buctraco.com

 

[Fallon]

Ballast the rear tires properly & only use the loader with proper 3pt ballast. My L3200 would easily pull the back end off the ground, even with a fair amount of rear ballast. Unless you are lucky or reall smart lifting the rear will roll the machine. I got lucky & didn't roll it a couple times.

 

[5030]

Farming is a very broad term. What do you want to "farm" and how much of it? A lot of people like a grapple for the loader for moving brush. Is that what you mean with land clearing? Any tractor is better than no tractor for outside work. It all depends on what you are wanting to do.

Certainly is Kind of like Solar Farm right? 80 acres of Alfalfa mixed grass and I sell every bale I make. I could do more on shares but don't want to. 80 is about all I can handle myself.

 

[5030]

Interesting video, especially doing dirt work with a light duty material bucket....duh.

 

[jeff9366]

I am seeing that. I was looking at the L3901 but wouldnt I have the same issues?

YES

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Tractor capability is more closely correlated to tractor weight than any other single specification.
Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first....
Tractor capability is more closely correlated to tractor weight than any other specification. Without enough weight tractor tires lose traction. Weight = momentum and inertia.

tractor horsepower second....
Weight has to be balanced with horsepower, especially with HST transmissions. Horsepower operates PTO-powered implements such as Roto-tillers, Snowblowers and Bush Hogs.

rear axle width third....
For stability at all times but especially for stability when lifting or transporting material with FEL bucket or grapple.

Tractors are inherently unstable operating on sloped ground. Tractor rear wheel/tire spread, adjustable with R1/ag tires, is a critical factor increasing compact tractor stability working sloped or uneven ground. A 6" to 10" wider rear axle substantially decreases tractor rollover potential.

rear wheel/tire ballast fourth....
For stability and to improved rear wheel/tire traction.

 

[Steppenwolfe]

I just sold my 3301 a month ago; had it for 6 years with zero issues. I will tell you, load those rears and get plenty of ballast in the back if you are doing any FEL work . These can be a little tipsy...

 

[Reddogs]

Still a lightweight. I'd be looking at the M series if you plan on doing any serious dirt engagement work.

What models do you think I should I look at?

 

[Reddogs]

Nice tractor & nice size. That combo and a gear transmission in a common rail engine makes it economical and darn near bulletproof. The tractor data specs show it will lift a ton at the 3pt ends and a thousand pounds in the bucket. That is some serious lifting.

Depending on how much land you want to work, if you are wanting to work 20 plus acres of cropland, then you may eventually also get an old larger 2wd Ag machine just for ground engaging work.
Not that the 3301 wouldn't do it, it just does it slower.

You asked about the extra hp of the L3901. My opinion - and it's just an opinion - is that the specs show the L3901 is really only 4 or 5 hp more on the same frame. More hp is always nice, but a little hp by itself isn't going to change what kind of work can be done. We all like more hp, and it might speed the work up by 10%, but that isn't what tractors are about. I think I'd go for the lower stress on the engine & just open the throttle when I want more power. You have enough for that frame size.

I'm betting that you keep that 3301 for a long time doing all the thousand and one jobs around your place. It's got enough power and size to do serious work and still be handy.

Oh.. for other implements. Get a few when they come up. You'll eventually accumulate a lot of them. We all do. Don't be afraid of used implements, that's a good place to save money.
rScotty

I noticed that on the L3901, my understanding is its the same engine, they just tweak the engine on the L3301 for the L3901. As for the implements, I have some from my John Deere 790 but need to fix them but from all the wear and tear, and only buy what I really need as the 'boss' keeps me on a 'budget'.

 

[Reddogs]

Farming is a very broad term. What do you want to "farm" and how much of it? A lot of people like a grapple for the loader for moving brush. Is that what you mean with land clearing? Any tractor is better than no tractor for outside work. It all depends on what you are wanting to do.

We have several various lots that we want to work on taking out the invasive trees and bushes so need the grapple, and put in fruit trees in others, and need to clear a 10 acre for planting.

 

[Reddogs]

YES

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Tractor capability is more closely correlated to tractor weight than any other single specification.
Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first....
Tractor capability is more closely correlated to tractor weight than any other specification. Without enough weight tractor tires lose traction. Weight = momentum and inertia.

tractor horsepower second....
Weight has to be balanced with horsepower, especially with HST transmissions. Horsepower operates PTO-powered implements such as Roto-tillers, Snowblowers and Bush Hogs.

rear axle width third....
For stability at all times but especially for stability when lifting or transporting material with FEL bucket or grapple.

Tractors are inherently unstable operating on sloped ground. Tractor rear wheel/tire spread, adjustable with R1/ag tires, is a critical factor increasing compact tractor stability working sloped or uneven ground. A 6" to 10" wider rear axle substantially decreases tractor rollover potential.

rear wheel/tire ballast fourth....
For stability and to improved rear wheel/tire traction.

Any models that you see, having a good balance on that criteria?

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

I think your 790 and L3301 will be about the same in terms of ability to do work. If you have much experience on the 790 I would say you will pretty much know what the 3301 is capable of.

 

[Jstpssng]

We have several various lots that we want to work on taking out the invasive trees and bushes so need the grapple, and put in fruit trees in others, and need to clear a 10 acre for planting.

The grapple would be handy for the first things you mention; depending on what you mean by “clearing”, there are other machines better suited for stumps and rocks. An excavator would be my first choice; with an experienced operator your land will be cleared in no time, freeing you up to do other things.
I have the same tractor, except that mine is HST; I would have preferred geared but they don’t have a live PTO, which I consider necessary for bushhogging and rototilling.
As mentioned before they are light and tippy; I’ve had my rear tire come up on the uphill side while disking on a slight side hill. Load your tires, or buy wheel weights if you want to keep the rear end on the ground.

 

[Reddogs]

I think your 790 and L3301 will be about the same in terms of ability to do work. If you have much experience on the 790 I would say you will pretty much know what the 3301 is capable of.

Thats what I thought when I looked at the specs and reviews, but its like driving a BMW versus a Honda, its not the same to say the least..

 

[Reddogs]

The grapple would be handy for the first things you mention; depending on what you mean by “clearing”, there are other machines better suited for stumps and rocks. An excavator would be my first choice; with an experienced operator your land will be cleared in no time, freeing you up to do other things.
I have the same tractor, except that mine is HST; I would have preferred geared but they don’t have a live PTO, which I consider necessary for bushhogging and rototilling.
As mentioned before they are light and tippy; I’ve had my rear tire come up on the uphill side while disking on a slight side hill. Load your tires, or buy wheel weights if you want to keep the rear end on the ground.

I almost tipped on a slight rise, so put weight in the back, and shifted the range to low, and now looking to fill the R1 tires or replace with R4 if thats what it needs.