Kubota L3200 TnT & 3rd function install (work in progress)

[J_J]

The pump OUT hose will now connect to the PB hose to provide a series circuit.

 

[Fallon]

Fallon - enjoy following your creation. Will pull off my fender and look to see what room I have to work with. I did notice that the left side seems to have more area for the valve.

JJ - thanks for the explanation. So the new valve output will power the 3 PH - understand now. So the 3 PH does not use a lot of flow so I think I am safe using a 8 gpm max valve. Will order the PB adapter.

On my L2850, when I disconnect the FEL, I loop one line back onto another. Is this the Loader inlet going to the PB? Do I need to make a provision of this on the L3600?

My L3200 has 6-7gpm flow on the the accessory circuit (or whatever you call the one that's not for the HST or power steering) if I recall. On my L3200 the loader valve is mounted to the tractor side of the loader frame. When I remove the loader (which I haven't bothered to do yet, just read the instructions) I need to disconnect the 4 quick disconnects on the hoses going to the boom & curl cylinders. The loader valve & all the power beyond stuff stays on the tractor. Not sure how yours is setup though, the valve may go with the loader.

Pressure goes into a valve, then out of a valve into the next valve (there is also a tank port for the returning oil from the contracting side of the cylinder). That keeps going until the last valve in the system (usually the 3pt). It sounds like you are putting the pressure line from the pump to the hose that runs to the pressure port of the next valve in line. Correct method of plumbing in or out a valve.

How much flow the 3pt uses is rather irrelevant. If there is a lot of flow, it will move faster, if not, slower. The problem is if you put a bottleneck in the system (valve, fittings, hose, etc.) in the power beyond loop, it will create back-pressure & heat the oil. Match the valve to the pump flow, not implements. I'd look up the flow rate for your pump to be sure, but an 8gpm valve should be good though (same ballpark as my L3200 at least).

Picked up a pile of 2"x2"x1/8" angle iron yesterday. Going to chop it up & drill hols to make a single stack QD mounting bracket rather than double stack & see how that works for keeping the TnT hoses out of the way. Might have hose length issues on both sides, but we'll see.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Fallon, would 90s at the male QDs get the hoses going down and out of the way of the QH? Still might need new T&T hoses, but could end up with much cleaner hose routing. :confused3:

 

[Fallon]

I've been looking at that & a lot of stuff.

• The 45's on the back of the QD's prevent me from moving the QD bracket further back (towards the seat)
• I can't lower or rotate the bracket without the 3pt arm hitting stuff on the back side of the bracket (at least with the double stack)
• I might be able to put 90's back there & have them pointing off to the side slightly so they aren't on-top of each other blocking the ones below
• I was looking at some 45 degree bulkhead QD fittings, those might get some of the clearance I'm looking for, thought about 90's on the TnT end of the QDs as well

Limiting the lift height of the 3pt like Number9l did would solve a lot of problems, but that just seems like cheating to me, I want it all to work all the way
I keep looking at things & thinking it through more. Every time I think I have a good idea, there ends up being a restriction somewhere when I run some function to one of the limits. Have a cart full of assorted fittings sitting on my computer at home I keep adding to & removing from. Will probably get a handful of fittings to mess with & build up my spare parts drawer for hydraulics (I expect a handful of future projects anyways).

It works for now if I'm careful. Happy with everything from the valve forward & I'll eventually get the back end sorted out. Now that it's functional some of the urgency is gone so I'll keep puttering with it. May look at new hoses, we'll have to see when I get it all figured out. We moved to the 5 acres so I could get a shop to tinker & putter in, so I guess this fulfills some of that destiny.

Need to get around to doing the leak down test here one of these days.

 

[Fallon]

Got a decent chance/excuse to use it Christmas eve. Cleaned up some scattered implements. Between the QH & the TNT it was pretty easy to pick em up and drop them off without getting out of the seat. Deliberately set a couple off kilter on logs or what not. Tilt made it dam easy to still pick em up.

Messed with some grading a bit. Tilt easily switches the box blade from blade to ripper. I'll try more tilted box blading later, but this let me see that I'll be able to get the slopes I want on cross cuts.

Parking on cardboard ad there is a drip on the back side of the QD bracket. Will get to it when I get the new bracket in place.

Happy with the function, but the hose management issue was always on my mind & frustrating. Hopefully I'll get it sorted soon, but a few other projects are more pressing (putting up lights in the ship so I can see & finishing unpacking boxes, so I can get to all my gear.

 

[paulwestski]

Got the valve mounted & fender somewhat back in place.

It looks like tucking the manifold just under the crossbar will give me enough clearance for everything & straight fittings on the back. I left a 7/16" (i think) wrench hanging out of the bottom QD to help judge distance & level. 3pt hitch was all the way up (propped it up manually, might not go quite that high on it's own) and have the top link relatively close to as short as it can go. Guessing at the port locations a bit on my measurements at the moment. I'll have to re-think my port order a bit, 90's on the bottom QD would be good for the top or tilt, was going to use that one as the 3rd function to limit possible rubbing on my quick hitch. Probably going to sleep on it or maybe wait for my cylinders. At the very least I need to re-measure after firing the tractor back up & running the 3pt to it's limits.
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Debating what route to go coming out of the valve. It looks like I have enough clearance to come straight out of the valve and go over or under the seatbelt bracket. I took some measurements from the end of the red plug covers, but am not sure what length of fittings I may need to factor in. I like the staggered 90 degree fittings on Number9l's install coming out of the valve body, but not sure that would buy me mutch. Leaving a big curve coming out of the valve body would give me a bit of wiggle room if the hose is an inch or 2 to long whereas a pretty straight shot from a 90 degree fitting straight into the back of the manifold. Definitely going to sleep on it.
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Photos of the joystick in detent both directions, centered & pushed up to the fender with an inch or an inch and a half to spare. My phone apparently had some issues on a couple of these, the battery was dying.
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My dumping ground for all my tractor photos, including a pile I haven't otherwise linked. https://plus.google.com/photos/113106912496937151690/albums/5922617055278593281

Fallon
Do you know that you can get square bent U-bolts to attach to the ROPS?

 

[Fallon]

Actually I now have a small box of some square ones I got from Ace Hardware a few weeks ago. It's been to cold for me to do much of anything on my tractor for a bit though. Square will look better, but I don't see anywhere where they will solve clearance issues in and of themselves.

 

[Fallon]

Cleared some snow this afternoon... Really liking the function of the TnT still. Took some photos of where things sit now & left the blade on & up (33" to top of blade on each side). Will re-measure it next time I'm out there & see if either cylinder seems to be dropping.

Currently there is only 1 U bolt holding the manifold on & it's a bit loose, which helps on the clearances a bit. The 45's on the back mean I can't push the bracket towards the front of the tractor any more. The way I have cylinder fittings finally rotated now I only get binding issues all the way up when retracting the top cylinder. At least 1 hose gets a bit tight when the 3pt is all the way down too. Pretty usable unless I bottom out the hitch or raise it with the top cylinder in.

I have a small stash of assorted fittings coming to fiddle with & see what room I can free up, whenever it warms up a bit. Some kind of rounded guard over the bracket attaching to the top cylinder might help keep that hose from hanging up there too.

 

[Fallon]

26" & 30" when I measured today 4? days later. Top cylinder looks like its come out a little over an inch (which takes about an hour to unscrew my OEM toplink that far it seems).

Assuming it leaks twice as much when warm (I doubt it) it would still be a non-issue. I'm happy with it.

 

[Fallon]

which takes about an hour to unscrew my OEM toplink that far it seems
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When running the rotary cutter, it seems to unwind due to the vibration, despite the vibration not being that bad. It took me a little bit to figure out what I bent (nothing) when my cutter started sagging after putting the first couple hours on my new tractor & cutter.

 

[Fallon]

After plowing some snow, I really saw the benefit of float on the tilt & am glad I got it. I also saw the value of hydraulic angling, which I didn't have, so I ordered one. That came in & I was finally prompted to do up the 3rd function handle I'd been slacking on.



Yes, it's bent like that intentionally, it was a bit of a pain to clamp it to weld up not being at a 90. The angle turned out the be a bit more than I needed to get the clearance over the top of the valve, but caused no problems.



It ends up getting as close to the seat as the joystick does locked in float, which doesn't cause any issues.

Of course after assembling the angle kit lastnight I found out Land Pride doesn't include QD's (not super suprising), so I need to head to the store on my way home tonight.

I also fiddled with the hoses a bit a few weeks ago. No additional fittings, but things seem to be working good enough. I still keep an eye on things when lifting the 3pt & nothing is binding. More flex on the hose than I'd like, but at this point I'm going to leave it as is & worry about it if something breaks.

I was rather disappointed to realize I'll need to get of my tractor to hook up the blade now with the angle hoses. I've gotten use to being able to hook up to everything without getting off thanks to the quick hitch & TNT kit. It is so convenient, no matter how crooked I drop an implement, I'm loving it.

 

[olecurtis1]

JJ
I 'm trying to hook a 3 point hitch log splitter to my Kubota L3200 . I need two lines to go to the back of the tractor for the hook up. Not sure what to hook the two lines to I know they go to the PB and the return just not sure where they are located.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Here

 

[ovrszd]

Brian, I really appreciate your eagerness to help. Jewels in your crown my friend!!!

 

[k0ua]

Fallon, you have really done a nice job integrating that valve in there, and fabricating the control lever.:thumbsup:

 

[Fallon]

The other weekend I realized I need 1 more kink in the 3rd function. It barely hits the 3pt lever when its all the way up. Easy fix though. Hopefully the correct QD fittings are waiting for me when I get home from this trip tonight too. Will be nice to try out the last piece.

 

[number9L]

Hey nice install!! (Been off the forum a while with other priorities lol). How's your valve leak down? Hope it's better than mine. I got used to dealing with mine and just let it go. Now I am used to reaching over and adjusting the tilt to the left every few min. Sometimes I forget and hear the BB or GB scrape the ground and remind me :/

...

 

[Fallon]

Leakdown is great, it will sit for a few days at least before it becomes noticeable.

Ordering up the new hoses here as soon as I can remember to confirm the measurements when I'm out in the shop. Will hopefully finish off the last issue I have with the TnT hoses catching & getting chewed up.

 

[Fallon]

Finally got around to ordering the new hoses & got ten installed. Things look pretty darn good.

Ended up moving the restrictor to the rod end hose for clearance issues. It made it quieter & faster. A good thing I think, i noticed it was a hair slow & really squealed compared to the side link before the swap.

I'll probably fab up some anti-chafing guard on the toplink bracket as a hose will touch there, although with no pressure. I can move it off with my finger & it will stop touching & stay there.

Hose - angle on the cyl end - length - angle on the QD end
Top cyl (L) - 0° 24" - 90° short
Top rod (R) - 0° 28" - 90° long
Tilt cyl (R) - 45° 20" - 90°
Tilt rod (L) - 45° 24"- 45°

I'd recommend getting the 90s for the top as shorts & getting the extra clearance from the restrictor, but this appears to be fine as well.

I do wish I'd sprung for flat face connectors. Dam age connectors leak too much after you disconnect them. Even after wiping them out with a towel I will got a good bit of oil seeping out & ending on the floor. Not that they leak, but you end up with a thimble full of oil inside when you disconnect.

 

[Fallon]