Kubota B6000 Starter??
- Thread starter chiefbuzzbee
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zman007007
Platinum Member
any good reputable alternator starter repair shop should be able to fix your starter or get you a solenoid.
mitch becton
Gold Member
if you can get the starter number off the starter and post or call me 678-478-7427i should be able to get the solenoid for you.
thanks
mitch becton
thanks
mitch becton
zman007007
Platinum Member
Hey Mitch, are we in the twilight zone and no one sees our answers thus the reason they are not answering back? lol zman
sandman2234
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Apparently he is too busy looking for a new starter to worry about checking back in to see what you guys have to say.
David from jax
David from jax
cappys tractor
Bronze Member
What are the first things to check to make sure it is the starter? My B6000 just clicks. I put a hot start on it, same results. the battery shows 12.8 volts. The glow plug lights, and dims when held. When swinging the starter switch to start the light dims too. The starter just clicks. I released the compression release and when in gear the rocking the tractor moves the crank so the engine isnt seized. Trying to start does no movemnent at all. Can I remove the starter and try it off the tractor to see the bendix? I found a solenoid for 30 bucks. But I hate to just throw parts at it. Any thoughts?
Thanks.
John
Thanks.
John
mitch becton
Gold Member
john can you clarify the differecne between the lights and how much do they dim when you try to start the tractor. if they dim alot look at the battery and the cables i mean possibly going completely off that is possibly battery related as far as testing the starter off tractor all you need is a vise to secure starter and a battery charger put ground lead to starter and positive to post on solenoid if it motors watch the drive it should sling out as to engage flywheel if nothing happens touch the positive battery charger wire to the post on solenoid that comes out of field case at this point you are bypassing the solenoid and powering the starter straight to the coils that activate the starter report back test results
cappys tractor
Bronze Member
Well. Had to go up to the woods in Maine for the weekend. Darned I HATE it when that happens! :drink:
I got back to S I Ls house where the tractor has been in repose for three months. I dragged it out of the woods and drag started it. This beast just don't quit!
Except for the starter part!
I will be bringing her home tomorrow for dissection and investigation. Will report back when I have the starter in hand.
As far as the glow light. When i turn it on it glows as normal. When I turn the rocker switch to start it dims to what my feeble mind recalls as normal. nothing like dimming to dead battery. The battery is about 2 years old.
I was having what I thought was intermittent starting issues with the rocker switch. Now I am not so sure. Since the starter clicks, and from the other post on starter info it would appear the starter is getting the correct juice and solenoid action. It just ain't working.
After I get the starter off I will report back. TYVM
John
I got back to S I Ls house where the tractor has been in repose for three months. I dragged it out of the woods and drag started it. This beast just don't quit!
Except for the starter part!
I will be bringing her home tomorrow for dissection and investigation. Will report back when I have the starter in hand.
As far as the glow light. When i turn it on it glows as normal. When I turn the rocker switch to start it dims to what my feeble mind recalls as normal. nothing like dimming to dead battery. The battery is about 2 years old.
I was having what I thought was intermittent starting issues with the rocker switch. Now I am not so sure. Since the starter clicks, and from the other post on starter info it would appear the starter is getting the correct juice and solenoid action. It just ain't working.
After I get the starter off I will report back. TYVM
John
cappys tractor
Bronze Member
OK, first the good news:
Starter is not spinning. Upon removal and trying, the bendix works as it should. That was the clicking I was hearing when turning the rocker switch. But the starter doesn't spin. Found a new starter on Ebay for 109.00 shipping included.
OK, now for the bad:
When we were pulling the tractor and got it started it seemed to run fine. I used R, 1,2. all worked as normal. last night when trying to re jump start it the back wheels act as if they are locked up in the gear case. When I put it in gear, with the clutch in or out, the tractor won't move. If I put it in neutral it can be pulled. (Clutch in or out) Hoping it is something hung up but not sounding too promising.
Any body done a clutch split on one of these? Is it worth the work? I am thinking I may need to move up and get rid of old faithful.
Starter is not spinning. Upon removal and trying, the bendix works as it should. That was the clicking I was hearing when turning the rocker switch. But the starter doesn't spin. Found a new starter on Ebay for 109.00 shipping included.
OK, now for the bad:
When we were pulling the tractor and got it started it seemed to run fine. I used R, 1,2. all worked as normal. last night when trying to re jump start it the back wheels act as if they are locked up in the gear case. When I put it in gear, with the clutch in or out, the tractor won't move. If I put it in neutral it can be pulled. (Clutch in or out) Hoping it is something hung up but not sounding too promising.
Any body done a clutch split on one of these? Is it worth the work? I am thinking I may need to move up and get rid of old faithful.
KubotaSam
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Any chance you put it in low range? If it was I don't think it would spin the engine. Although I guess it would move the back wheels with the clutch in. Can you turn the engine over with a large screwdriver or pry bar through the starter hole?
cappys tractor
Bronze Member
I did turn the engine over with the compression release off, using a large pair of channel locs on the crank nut. It moves freely.
But when I put it in gear, no way jose`
The back wheels act as if the differential is bound on the left side. the right one acts free, the left is jammed up. but today when rolling it off the trailer everything just rolled free as a bird?? Hoping what ever was jammed is free. Will see if the ole dinosaur has another life to give! Starter coming tomorrow.
This sheisse better get settled out quick, I have a cord and a half of wood to split with her this month!
But when I put it in gear, no way jose`
The back wheels act as if the differential is bound on the left side. the right one acts free, the left is jammed up. but today when rolling it off the trailer everything just rolled free as a bird?? Hoping what ever was jammed is free. Will see if the ole dinosaur has another life to give! Starter coming tomorrow.
This sheisse better get settled out quick, I have a cord and a half of wood to split with her this month!
jimmysisson
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If you think the pull starting busted a tooth or some such, might be wise to drain the trans and rear and see if you get metal. At least you don't want extra parts floating around in there. Maybe a magnet might find something if the draining doesn't.
Might you have a brake seized? Diffy lock broke somehow? I think your uh-oh feeling is justified...
Good luck, Jim
Might you have a brake seized? Diffy lock broke somehow? I think your uh-oh feeling is justified...
Good luck, Jim
cappys tractor
Bronze Member
OK, Now the good news. The new starter from ebay (some place in Jacksonville, Fla I will have to post the name here later) 119 bucks, shipping included.
Installed and whammo....... engine started easier than it has in years.
Now the bad news.
NO clutch left. It had precious little before, with careful shifting and clutching, but now. Nada.
Has anyone done a split on one of these? I have the manuals, and can get a clutch disk, a plate and a throw out bearing. I called the local place and he says $3200.00 Ulp. That's more than I paid for the old dinosaur! If I can do it myself I would be happy. Any tips or helpful advice?
I know I have to take of the subframe. When splitting the tractor do I have to make a jig up to keep the two halves perfectly inline? or is there a little wiggle room?
On another thought, when I have it apart, can I take apart the gear box and take the PTO spline out and weld a modern 6 spline in it? I have been reluctant to do that with the gear box assembled, for fear of flashing the bearings while welding. I don't really NEED a PTO, but who knows what kind of things I could justify if I had one! I know, rotating backwards and all. but just think what I could do!!!
Installed and whammo....... engine started easier than it has in years.
Now the bad news.
NO clutch left. It had precious little before, with careful shifting and clutching, but now. Nada.
Has anyone done a split on one of these? I have the manuals, and can get a clutch disk, a plate and a throw out bearing. I called the local place and he says $3200.00 Ulp. That's more than I paid for the old dinosaur! If I can do it myself I would be happy. Any tips or helpful advice?
I know I have to take of the subframe. When splitting the tractor do I have to make a jig up to keep the two halves perfectly inline? or is there a little wiggle room?
On another thought, when I have it apart, can I take apart the gear box and take the PTO spline out and weld a modern 6 spline in it? I have been reluctant to do that with the gear box assembled, for fear of flashing the bearings while welding. I don't really NEED a PTO, but who knows what kind of things I could justify if I had one! I know, rotating backwards and all. but just think what I could do!!!
