Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints

[check]

Check, Here is the page for your Bx 25 Quick On Back Hoe Bucket Connector Randy

Oh, yeah - one more questio: does anybody know if it is compatible with Bro-Tek's ripper tooth? (That is the one that I have.)

 

[bumperm]

Oh, yeah - one more questio: does anybody know if it is compatible with Bro-Tek's ripper tooth? (That is the one that I have.)

That's what I have too. Do you have a thumb as well? With my Bro-Tek, the thumb works for holding bigger stuff, but unlike the thumb and bucket combo that will grasp small saplings etc, the crescent shape of the Bro-Tek blade allows them to slide right through. So I was going toe make an
"anvil" to bolt to the thumb face out of 1/2" steel, the anvil shaped to mate up with the Bro-Tek. Good thing I haven't gotten to that yet, as the quick connect will change the geometry of that anvil too.

 

[My Hoe]

Bumperm,
I have the hydraulic thumb mod and I am still going to try it and will let you know how it works out. A 3 minute change or a 45 minute change to put the ripper on seems like a no brainer.
Randy

Randu,

Which BH do you have? And which thumb (before it was hydraulically-modified)? I have the BH77, with the Kubota mechanical thumb.

Did your hydraulic modification process change the geometry of your (I'm assuming) once-mechanical thumb? Because, if not, and IF you have the BH77 with Kubota's mechanical thumb (before your hydraulic mods) then I'm assuming your upcoming experiments could be directly relevant to my setup.

My first use of a ripper tooth would be to dig out the invasive roots of a nearby tree that have invaded half of our garden, so I was planning on being able to pick up whatever I ripped out, with the backhoe, and the ripper tooth/thumb combo--only the thumb of which, as I say, I have already.

To be honest, I'd never even considered the potential problem of having the bucket no longer mating up closely enough to grab small stuff, after the installation of a BH quick attach setup (or similar "mating problems" with a ripper tooth, let alone which company's ripper tooth). So, I'd be most grateful if anyone could point out any other potential issues I may have overlooked....

So, I look forward to your findings....

To All: Am I correct in assuming that the BXpanded BH QA, for the BX line of (smaller) BH's is NOT the same size/strength as would be applicable for my (larger) BH77?

Many thanks, to all, including the OP.

My Hoe

 

[randu]

My Hoe,
I have the BH 77 with the Kubota mechanical thumb which I converted by adding a hydraulic cylinder and have the 24 inch bucket. Right now the thumb goes inside the bucket so the bucket and thumb doesn't hit at the bottom of the teeth. I have the Michigan Iron ripper tooth and have not had it on to see how they mate up because of the time it takes to put on. I am doing this for convenience and not really concerned about geometry at this point. I would assume that there are two different models of the adapter since they are shown separately .
Randy

 

[My Hoe]

My Hoe,
I have the BH 77 with the Kubota mechanical thumb which I converted by adding a hydraulic cylinder and have the 24 inch bucket. Right now the thumb goes inside the bucket so the bucket and thumb doesn't hit at the bottom of the teeth. I have the Michigan Iron ripper tooth and have not had it on to see how they mate up because of the time it takes to put on. I am doing this for convenience and not really concerned about geometry at this point. I would assume that there are two different models of the adapter since they are shown separately .
Randy

Randu,

Thanks for the details of your modifications, and for pointing out that the two models of BXpanded BH QA's are probably different models, since they are shown separately. (Obviously) I haven't yet done my homework, but I will--if I learn anything different, I'll report back.

Hopefully, in the meantime, others will chime in.

Thanks again,

My Hoe

 

[bumperm]

Randu,

Which BH do you have? And which thumb (before it was hydraulically-modified)? I have the BH77, with the Kubota mechanical thumb.

*** I have a BH77. The thumb is the mechanical one sold by Kubota, so it looks like we have the same stuff so far!

Did your hydraulic modification process change the geometry of your (I'm assuming) once-mechanical thumb? Because, if not, and IF you have the BH77 with Kubota's mechanical thumb (before your hydraulic mods) then I'm assuming your upcoming experiments could be directly relevant to my setup.

*** No, it didn't change the geometry at all. The cylinder I chose fit, though I did cut it apart to add a short spacer to make the retracted distance about 1/2 longer or so.

My first use of a ripper tooth would be to dig out the invasive roots of a nearby tree that have invaded half of our garden, so I was planning on being able to pick up whatever I ripped out, with the backhoe, and the ripper tooth/thumb combo--only the thumb of which, as I say, I have already.

To be honest, I'd never even considered the potential problem of having the bucket no longer mating up closely enough to grab small stuff, after the installation of a BH quick attach setup (or similar "mating problems" with a ripper tooth, let alone which company's ripper tooth). So, I'd be most grateful if anyone could point out any other potential issues I may have overlooked....

*** With the original 12" bucket, or any of the buckets I guess, the thumb mates fairly well and the sides of the bucket and thumb will grab even small branches (the smaller bucket best due to tighter lateral spacing). With the Bro-Tek ripper you can still grab larger things, roots and such, but the smaller stuff slips through the curved shape of the ripper.

So, I look forward to your findings....

*** I was planning to wait for others to go first too!

To All: Am I correct in assuming that the BXpanded BH QA, for the BX line of (smaller) BH's is NOT the same size/strength as would be applicable for my (larger) BH77?

*** It would have to be a different model.

Many thanks, to all, including the OP.

My Hoe

Above, my comments between your text and preceded by ***
bumper

 

[randu]

Well, tomorrow I get e adapter so we will find out.
Randy

 

[bumperm]

Randy,


That didn't take long . . . how long ago did you order? I'd of guessed they'd be backlogged with the new product. Speaking of which, and knowing how much more useful a hoe is with a thumb, and how much better a hydraulic thumb is that that mechanical one (having to get off the tractor to deploy, adjust, and stow (what a PITA!) - I'm surprised nobody has come out with a hydraulic upgrade kit for the BH77. Like others, I paralleled the curl cylinder with a solenoid valve and button on the joy stick. It was basically all off the shelf stuff, I only weld modified the cylinder so the thumb won't bonk the cylinder on full retract (it did as purchased as the cylinder was about 1/2" too short) and that 1/2" spacer gave me a few inches more opening movement while still not hitting the dipper. There's about 1/8" of clearance at each end of cylinder travel, so full available range of motion is utilized.

If I go with the quick connect, and I likely will pending your report, I'll modify my plans for the "anvil" for the Bro-Tek ripper to mate with. Pretty sure it will all work okay together.

One minor concern is that the QC adapter moves the bucket out a little, and this would take away a small amount of digging breakout force?? When I adjusted the tractor bypass, mine was a couple of hundred pounds too low IIRC, the difference was quite noticeable. (Procedure in another thread.)

bumper

 

[randu]

Bumper,
I ordered it Friday night at 11 pm online. I did the curl cylinder paralleled with a solenoid mod also. I have the Michigan Iron ripper tooth which is quite a bit different than the Bro-Tek so we'll see how that works. I also had to adjust the bypass up by 200 psi and that improved the lift.
Randy

 

[randu]

I have put the Bxpanded quick attach adapter on to my BH 77 and didn't notice much difference using it than without it. Of course , the time it takes to change out attachments is a whole lot quicker. I know the geometry has changed, but I only use it for my own use and do not hire out for jobs so I don't know if that makes any difference to me. Here are some pictures from my installation.

 

[bumperm]

Randy,

How does the thumb match up now as compared to before? Had a chance to use it?

thanks,

bumper

Edit: Well, I went an ordered one too! Will report back later

 

[randu]

Bumper,
Not that much difference, the bucket is a little lower, 2 inches, and little further back, 2 inches. On the 24 inch bucket , the thumb was already inside the bucket.
Here is a picture with out the adapter, I will take a picture tomorrow with the adapter.
Randy

 

[randu]

Bumper,
Here is the backhoe with the bxpanded adapter on.
Randy

 

[bumperm]

Randy,

Thanks, looks good. I've ordered one with a couple of extra pins as I have a 12, 24, and ripper tooth, so I'll have an unused pin for a future attachment.

With the quick connect I expect to loose a small, maybe unnoticeable amount of force, an equally small additional reach, and a whole lot of time saved switching buckets :c)

bumper

 

[lescarpentier]

Finally got around to checking the hydraulic pressure on my B3350. The WSM says it should be 2400 to 2450 psi. Mine was set at 2050. No wonder the BH77 backhoe was a little anemic. Removed the loader relief valve and it had three shim washers totaling 3.21 mm thickness. I added two washers to add 1.90 mm and that raised the pressure to 2500 psi (close enough for gauge error). While I was at it, I put the test gauge on the power beyond and checked the pressure while operating the hoe, also 2500 psi now, so the loader relief valves must be set higher than that. Anyway, looking forward to removing some tree stumps, should work a lot better now.

bumper

Did you notice an appreciable difference?
Tks,

 

[bumperm]

Yes, most definitely, a very obvious difference at the backhoe. No convenient way to quantify but an almost 20% pressure increase, assuming other pressure relief valves are set as high (those on the hoe) is well above seat-of-the-pants detection threshold!

 

[kabotie]

it seems as if all your pictures are deleted ? can u repost them as i want to remove the roof also to do ia custom controll switch layout thansk jim, or send me the pictures direct to r99dutch@optonline.net thanks again

The underside of the roof, showing the three connectors (front and rear light bar, rear camera). Roof is easy to remove - remove three gray plastic caps near center of roof liner (these just snap on to cover 10mm hex head bolts), remove bolts. Next remove all 10mm hex bolts around perimeter of roof, including two that are through extended strap brackets at the rear. Some bolts are much longer than others, no need to keep track of what goes where as the correct bolt length is obvious. Roof is light but ungainly, so you will need two people to remove or replace.

Forgot to mention, when roof is removed is a great time to replace the speakers. Stock speakers are okay, higher quality replacements sound much better, even to my tired old ears. I used these:

Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate R14X2 Prime 4-Inch Full Range Coaxial Speaker - Set of 2: Car Electronics

though any good 4 inch speaker should do. Note that the old speaker grills were used as the new, more rounded ones had clearance issues with headliner. Could have sanded off offending part, but the old ones fit nicely. Also note that Kubota uses mounting screws into loose nuts on the backside, so it is not possible to remove speakers without access to the backside by removing roof.



The rock was not even visible without front cam, nice to be able to see exactly what loader bucket is doing. That said, the 130 degree fish eye view does take some getting used to.



Rear view with grid lines (lines can be menu deleted), note the 3-point hitch lower links are visible to aid in implement alignment. My 6-O'clock "Messerschmidt twitch" never did work well, so I'm one of those that has to twist my body around to look directly aft. Sometimes this kills the engine if the seat switch is left operational (mine has been jumper wire disabled). So the rear cam is a really nice!







The front mount easily removes w/ no tools and also adjust fore and aft or simply swings back out of harm's way if need be.



Rear cam position. Roof is double wall, hollow, so all wiring was routed inside roof. Butyl rubber tape (caulk) used to seal roof penetrations. One would probably never notice, but cab is not exactly square to tractor, off a few degrees, thus to get rear cam grid lines aligned properly, it was necessary to slightly (0.060") shim one side of cam mount to get it straight.





Pallet forks - I could never see the tips before - - moving rocks is gonna be easy!



When not playing with the tractor.

best,

bumper

 

[RGAZ]

Lee,

Have you had the most recent software upgrade recall done yet? It was from back in November of 15 I think. In any case, my B3350 originally defaulted to "no auto-regen" at start up. So like you, I was in the habit of pressing the far right button to enable auto-regen (on the fly at more than 2000 rpm). After the last upgrade, that procedure was reversed without telling us. No it defaults (like the newer B3350's) to auto-regen enabled.

You cannot (or at least I cannot) do a parked regen unless the system is asking for one (parked regen light on the panel flashing. Then, if I have difficulty gettng parked regen to start, this has worked for me. Make sure all do-dads are off PTO off etc (my seat switch is bypassed so mine will run with PTO going and me not sitting in there). Shut off tractor, put parking brake on. Put tranny range selector in N position. Re-start and make sure throttle is all the way to idle, push parked regen button. Parked regen light should come on and engine RPM should smoothly go up to 2000 rpm. Go have a cup of coffee or something waiting for the engine to return to idle. During this whole process you cannot do anything to or with the tractor - don't touch the throttle etc.

Note, when it finishes, it it'll keep on running at idle, loading up the DPF again - really stupid. Kubota should have programmed it to shut down by itself after a parked regen- DUH.

I have the same issue as Lee, but mine has a bigger problem. Mine will not even let the tractor crank. Its not auto-regening and if I don't realize the DPF is full (no light) and turn it off, it will inhibit crank. My B3350HU is less than a year old. Been to the dealer twice and they just tell me it need a regen. Is there any official Kubota doc I can take to them to force a repair of the computer?

Help guys.
Randy

 

[bumperm]

Randy,

Is your dealer refusing to help? You might try explaining what's going on again, ask him to talk to the district manager or whatever Kubota calls them. They do have a number they can call for tech help etc.

What year is your tractor? If an earlier one, have they done any software updates?

For those who were asking about all my photos that are no longer in previous threads, sorry I missed that request. I had goofed with the photo filing system and had no good way to go back and fix things. All the photos are available at the following photobucket link - you'll just have to sort through to find what you want (there aren't all that many) - sorry for the confusion.

http://s674.photobucket.com/user/bumperm/library/Kubota%20Tractor?sort=3&page=1

 

[RGAZ]

Bumperm,

The dealer is not helpful. He tries to tell me its my fault. When I forced him to come get it, it started right up and he accused me of running it out of diesel (no way!). They took it in the shop and since it ran for them they just did a parked regen and told me its fine. They brought it back to me in less than 24 hours. I showed them videos of it not working and asked them what to try and they said it might be a interlock. I feel they will do anything to not help me, that is why I need a document or something to show them to fix it. I bought it new from them last June. It was on the lot for a bit (because its an SU model), but is should be a 2015 or 2016. I don't think they know how to reprogram it. It has 66 hours on it and it stopped last time at 33 hours, so I am assuming its the auto-regen causing the no-crank problem. If I can get it to start this afternoon, I will do a parked regen (if I can). The problem is it should be either doing an auto-regen or at least giving me lights or beeps. It does not light up the regen lights or beep at all. One time when It could not start it said Code 21 on the dash, since they could not duplicate it they did not believe me. The next closest dealer is a 45 minute drive and my truck cannot tow this that far.

So I am stuck with my local guy.
Randy G