Just an observation

[KFree]

I have my YM226D set up with a wood splitter right now. The splitter taps the auxiliary hydraulic port of the hydraulic block so here is the drill:

• Raise the splitter to work height with the 3pt and then shut down the tractor.
  
• Close the valve on the hydraulic block to lock the 3pt in place.
  
• Move the 3pt lever to the full raise position.
  
• Connect the splitter hydraulics to the rear remotes.
  
• Start the tractor and start splitting wood.

What I observed is that while I'm in this configuration, the front loader hydraulics are much more responsive and stronger. I'd say the curl is easily twice as fast as is the up/down of the lift. It really surprised me and caught me off guard.

My guess is that something in the hydraulic block isn't quite right. Anyone have any idea what it might be?

Thanks,

Keith

 

[winston1]

I don't know how you are hooked up so I really can't offer any advice. I am going to try attaching a scan out of the 226 manual but don't think it is going to be to good. There is an outlet for a single acting cylinder coming off the left side of your control valve and then an inlet and outlet for an auxiliary valve on the front of the control valve. If you are using that you need to install a 1/4" plug in the outlet port.

 

[KFree]

Winston,

Thanks for the reply. I do not have it set up as a double acting cylinder. My loader is using the a and b ports and returns into the c port. The headless plug is installed in the A port.

The log splitter is using the port on the right side of the block (saw it labeled as an AUX port somewhere) because it operates somewhat like a single acting cylinder. If you look at figure 11 of the page you uploaded, it is the port directly above the slow return/stop valve. The splitter return goes to port c.

It just doesn't make any sense to me that if I close the stop valve with the splitter hooked up, that the loader is on steroids (maybe that is the way it is supposed to work?).

Thanks,

Keith

 

[winston1]

I guess if your setup works I can't condemn it. However, the auxiliary port on the right side is designed to be used with a single acting cylinder with no return line.

 

[clemsonfor]

I guess if your setup works I can't condemn it. However, the auxiliary port on the right side is designed to be used with a single acting cylinder with no return line.

Not an expert on hydro but he said that the return line for the splitter goes to "C", so i guess he has a return?

 

[winston1]

Not an expert on hydro but he said that the return line for the splitter goes to "C", so i guess he has a return?

Yes, I believe Kfree has a return, I'm just saying that port is made to be used without a return on a single acting cylinder. That port is unusable without closing the stop valve and is controlled with the 3 point lift handle. I have a quick disconnect on mine that I use with a cement mixer single acting dump cylinder. Again, if it works, go for it. Does your wood splitter valve circuit stay hooked up when not in use? If so, that could be the reason your loader is slower. Here is another page out of the book on the single acting port.

 

[KFree]

I guess if your setup works I can't condemn it. However, the auxiliary port on the right side is designed to be used with a single acting cylinder with no return line.

Right. I understand it is for a single acting cylinder. No worries about condemnation. The condemned setup is responsible for many cords of split wood

I installed quick disconnects under the seat for the AUX and C ports. When I'm not using the splitter, I take it off and open the stop valve back up.

I would have hooked it up using the A port but it has a hard line coming off of it to a divider block. From the divider block, one line goes to the loader and the other goes to the power steering. Also, I don't know if the loader control valve has power beyond or not so I just used the AUX port. I don't recall where the B line is coming from. Both the loader and power steering dump into the C port.

Keith

 

[winston1]

I'm slow! When you remove the splitter do you connect quick disconnects under the seat or is that circuit left unconnected? "If" it is a completed circuit I could see why your loader does not work as fast. Does this make any sense?

 

[KFree]

Oh, sorry. The disconnects are left unconnected.

 

[winston1]

Oh, sorry. The disconnects are left unconnected.

OK, well, I have no idea why your loader works faster when splitter is hooked up. Got to be related to the stop valve being in the closed position. By the way, do you have plenty of pump output to operate the splitter at a good rate? I have read some believing these little pumps won't put out enough to operate one at a fast rate.

 

[KFree]

For me, the pump output is sufficient. A full cycle is about 12 seconds so that's about 10 splits a minute (it splits both ways). I just wish I had more pressure sometimes. On really knotty wood that doesn't split, it has to cut through it and sometimes doesn't make it. With the 6" wedge, I split up to 20" diameter hickory without too much trouble. There is a lot to be said for technique with only 2200 PSI to work with.

Here is a link to the one I have.

Powerhorse Horizontal Log Splitter — 3 Pt., 13-Ton Ram Force, 3in. x 18in. Cylinder | Log Splitters | Northern Tool + Equipment

With the loader, I wonder if it is taking a lot of flow to regenerate on the 3pt...and if so, is there anything I can do about it.

 

[shawnjvl]

Wow thats a really nice unit.

 

[scoops]

Kfree,

My 226 is configured the same as yours, less the wood splitter

My loader has always been very responsive.
How long in seconds are you talking about from a full curl down to up, and up to down? and also how about full lift from up to down and down to up?
Both with the valve open and then closed?

I was always under the impression that should not operate the
hydraulics with the 3pt valve in the closed position, I could swear I read that in the manual somewhere a whiles back.

 

[winston1]

Kfree,

My 226 is configured the same as yours, less the wood splitter

My loader has always been very responsive.
How long in seconds are you talking about from a full curl down to up, and up to down? and also how about full lift from up to down and down to up?
Both with the valve open and then closed?

I was always under the impression that should not operate the
hydraulics with the 3pt valve in the closed position, I could swear I read that in the manual somewhere a whiles back.

You are not suppose to operate the three point with the stop valve closed. You can operate the loader or the auxiliary port. The 3 point handle actually operates the auxiliary. You can still deadhead the auxiliary unless you have a return hooked up like Kfree does.

 

[KFree]

Kfree,

My 226 is configured the same as yours, less the wood splitter

My loader has always been very responsive.
How long in seconds are you talking about from a full curl down to up, and up to down? and also how about full lift from up to down and down to up?
Both with the valve open and then closed?

I was always under the impression that should not operate the
hydraulics with the 3pt valve in the closed position, I could swear I read that in the manual somewhere a whiles back.

I'll have to time it tomorrow. I've got about a cord to split right now from todays cutting so I'll have it out tomorrow. Taking my better half out to dinner tonight.

On the valve, once I have it closed, the 3pt has to be in the full raise position or else it will try to deadhead. Don't ask how I know that.

 

[KFree]

I like to hook my loaders and log splitters and and backhoes by cuting the small line. then i put a 3/8 pipe thread in.then i can go in my loaders and out.and then put hydyraulic break away couplers in the back by my 3pt. for backhoes and splitter. Ray Coldwater loaders

So, if I were to reconfigure and do it that way, should I 'T' the line before the power steering divider? I'd rather have it plumbed to where I can still operate the 3pt because I'd love to have a hydraulic toplink...and maybe even tilt if it is easy enough to do.

I do like the breakaway couplers. The ones I put on are Pioneer that came with a bracket. One good pull and they come right apart.