John Deere4120 vs Kobota3940
- Thread starter Lee77
- Start date
- Views: 5580
Z-Michigan
Veteran Member
In your other post you mentioned mowing on 20 acres of steep hills as a major use. I would seriously consider R1 (ag) tires with adjustable axle widths for that use.
Both prices look good and both are really nice tractors. I think the JD price is a bigger discount off MSRP than the Kubota price, but I haven't priced that Kubota personally. The JD has a planetary final drive which is a bit more durable and a "big tractor" type feature, but not that I've ever heard of any final drive failures on the botas. Have you driven both? Which one do you like better?
Both prices look good and both are really nice tractors. I think the JD price is a bigger discount off MSRP than the Kubota price, but I haven't priced that Kubota personally. The JD has a planetary final drive which is a bit more durable and a "big tractor" type feature, but not that I've ever heard of any final drive failures on the botas. Have you driven both? Which one do you like better?
Luke_theDrifter
New member
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2007
- Messages
- 16
This is a timely post...
I decided about 2 months ago to purchase a tractor, we need one. At first I thought I'd do a little research, ask a few questions locally, maybe use the internet some, and I was sure I would make the selection & purchase within a week.
Well.....2 months later and LOTS of research I just bought one today, 2 weeks away from [frost] freeze-up.... a Kubota 3400. I looked at the Deere, Ford/NH, Kioti, Montana, Myhimdra...or however you spell it?....some other ones not well known, and what they call the grey-market tractors; Yanmars and such.
It seems like a lot of folks on this site put a lot of weight into dealer support. That is great if you have dealer support, but in my case there are not any dealers close so I purchased the tractor over the phone and will have it shipped to me. Ultimatley my choice was based on what is the best tractor for my needs and what "I" think is the "BEST" tractor.
As far as price, I think I got a fair deal, but I'm not a price expert; L3400HST w/ a front loader, BH75 Backhoe, 72" Bush Hog Brand box scraper, 72" Bush Hog cutter w/ the clutch, and a 72" Bush Hog brand rake; total price $27,500.
I belive the 3940 (grand) has more bells & whistles and is priced about $4,300-$4,500 higher
I decided about 2 months ago to purchase a tractor, we need one. At first I thought I'd do a little research, ask a few questions locally, maybe use the internet some, and I was sure I would make the selection & purchase within a week.
Well.....2 months later and LOTS of research I just bought one today, 2 weeks away from [frost] freeze-up.... a Kubota 3400. I looked at the Deere, Ford/NH, Kioti, Montana, Myhimdra...or however you spell it?....some other ones not well known, and what they call the grey-market tractors; Yanmars and such.
It seems like a lot of folks on this site put a lot of weight into dealer support. That is great if you have dealer support, but in my case there are not any dealers close so I purchased the tractor over the phone and will have it shipped to me. Ultimatley my choice was based on what is the best tractor for my needs and what "I" think is the "BEST" tractor.
As far as price, I think I got a fair deal, but I'm not a price expert; L3400HST w/ a front loader, BH75 Backhoe, 72" Bush Hog Brand box scraper, 72" Bush Hog cutter w/ the clutch, and a 72" Bush Hog brand rake; total price $27,500.
I belive the 3940 (grand) has more bells & whistles and is priced about $4,300-$4,500 higher
Both dealers are about 10 miles from my home across the street from one another. But if I buy JD or Kubota I'm hoping I won't be back to the dealer for a long long long time.
About the tires I have Agrs. now but won't Ind. be ok for mowing? What about side hill traction, side hill can be scary. thanks
About the tires I have Agrs. now but won't Ind. be ok for mowing? What about side hill traction, side hill can be scary. thanks
I have had my 4120 powerrev for more than (2) years and have not needed to go back to the dealer for anything but oil filters for the 50 and 150 hr service. It has exceeded my expectations in many areas including power, comfort, traction, and ease of use. I have the R1's and the traction is really amazing. If you will be mowing lawns, then R4's are probably the best choice for you.
Z-Michigan
Veteran Member
If you were mowing flat fields R4s would definitely be a good way to go. But I don't think they'll have as much traction in any direction (forward-back or side) as R1s on grass covered soil. I only have ever used R1s so I don't have the experience to compare - maybe LC or FWJ can chime in. If you consider your hills scary to mow, I would want every traction and stability edge I could get. I don't know specifically about those two tractors, but on many models you only get adjustable axle width with R1 tires - often this is because you're really mounting the wheel to the axle in different ways and only the R1-matched wheels are set up for that flexibility. I would ask both dealers. Any chance you could post a photo of your property to give us an idea?
Double Orange
Platinum Member
Lee, If your near N.C. Carver equipt. has a new L3940 HST R4's no fel 18900.
Z-Michigan
Veteran Member
I don't think that's too light for its size. The JD 4120 is around 3750lbs, not a lot more. In either case I think you will want filled tires for stability on slopes.
I don't know if there is an objective answer to which one is better, but I can pretty much guarantee you won't find such an answer here! I think you should drive both extensively and decide which one you like better. Both will serve you fine. On paper there are some differences and a case can be made for either one, but in practice I think the differences are small.
I don't know if there is an objective answer to which one is better, but I can pretty much guarantee you won't find such an answer here! I think you should drive both extensively and decide which one you like better. Both will serve you fine. On paper there are some differences and a case can be made for either one, but in practice I think the differences are small.
art
Super Member
Lee77 said:
It is far better to be able to add the weight where it is needed if it is then to have a tractor that is to heavy being a fuel hog, inefficient and fat. The added weight also wears out the tractors faster.
Greyfields
Silver Member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2007
- Messages
- 148
My 4120 has filled tires and I pretty much always have the loader on. So what is my actual running weight, and on R4's? I dunno. I weigh 200 bucks myself, so that alone adds around 5% to the weight of the machine. Having a full tank of fuel adds 120 pounds itself. So, a few hundred pounds either way simply is not significant.
I really do enjoy my 4120. If I did it all over again, though, I'd go 4320. That extra 5 hp opens the door to a lot more attachments you can use.
I really do enjoy my 4120. If I did it all over again, though, I'd go 4320. That extra 5 hp opens the door to a lot more attachments you can use.
art said:
Golly! You sure have a sharp line to delineate between being, "to heavy being a fuel hog, inefficient and fat. " After all, the difference in weight is only a couple hundred pounds.
But on a serious note, I don't agree that the added weight wears out the tractor faster. Quite the contrary, heavier tractors often have superior traction due to the added weight. That allows for smoother operations. Shock loading is then reduced and shocks are tremendous initiators of cracks.
jb
volunteer
Bronze Member
Being new to tractoring I can attest to the importance of tips provided to me here in this forum concerning hillside mowing:
1. Have ROPS and wear seatbelt.
2. Go up and down hill, not side to side.
3. Go slow.
4. Add fluid to tires.
5. Widen tire track by turning tires out.
6. Get AG tires
7. Don't mow when grass is either wet or damp
Helped me to have fellow farmer come over and watch him navigate hill, see how he did it was a big help. Also read as many threads concerning "steep hills" and read countless articles about recommended tractors. It helps that my tractor has four wheel drive with a locking differential. Watch out and stay away from holes, gulleys, and obstacles like rocks, logs, or large clods of dirt. Thorns can cause a leak in your tires, avoid thorns. If you don't get a front end loader, get some weights for front end. Join the local coop. A good dealer that is close by cannot be stressed enough. Unlike cars, the number of dealers for tractors are limited and a good dealer that is close by will make your life easier. Rotary cutters or bushhogs can really throw rocks far and hard, keep all children, family, friends far away. Cutters can throw rocks by your head - watch what you're cutting. Get your tractor's owner manual and repair manuals.
1. Have ROPS and wear seatbelt.
2. Go up and down hill, not side to side.
3. Go slow.
4. Add fluid to tires.
5. Widen tire track by turning tires out.
6. Get AG tires
7. Don't mow when grass is either wet or damp
Helped me to have fellow farmer come over and watch him navigate hill, see how he did it was a big help. Also read as many threads concerning "steep hills" and read countless articles about recommended tractors. It helps that my tractor has four wheel drive with a locking differential. Watch out and stay away from holes, gulleys, and obstacles like rocks, logs, or large clods of dirt. Thorns can cause a leak in your tires, avoid thorns. If you don't get a front end loader, get some weights for front end. Join the local coop. A good dealer that is close by cannot be stressed enough. Unlike cars, the number of dealers for tractors are limited and a good dealer that is close by will make your life easier. Rotary cutters or bushhogs can really throw rocks far and hard, keep all children, family, friends far away. Cutters can throw rocks by your head - watch what you're cutting. Get your tractor's owner manual and repair manuals.
IslandTractor
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2005
- Messages
- 16,647
- Location
- Prudence Island, RI
- Tractor
- 2007 Kioti DK40se HST, Woods BH
Lee77 said:
If you are open to other brands, consider the Kioti DK40se. It is quite comparable to the 4120 and 3940 plus or minus a few bells and whistles here and there. Probably heavier than either the JD and certainly the Kubota. The HST version with FEL and R4s can be had for less than 20K and I'm sure the non HST would be even less. I've got only 20hrs on mine so far but am very impressed.
Bob_Young
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2002
- Messages
- 1,244
- Location
- North of the Fingerlakes - NY
- Tractor
- Ford 4000; Ford 2000(both 3cyl.);JD40; 2004 Kubota L4300; 2006 Kubota B7610; new 2007 Kubota MX5000
One thought: The bull gear final drive on the Kubota will likely be noisier than the planetary final on the JD. It's not a big deal either way; I've gotten used to the sound it makes on my L4300. Planetary drives are fairly quiet, but don't ask me why.
FWIW
Bob
FWIW
Bob
art
Super Member
john_bud said:
John Bud, when working with ag tractors we have found that the best performance is between 110 and 130 lbs per horsepower for tillage work. That is the best in fuel economy as well as overall life of the tractor. There is no reason to hit any more weight per lb on a compact tractor unless it might be used for loader work in more then 75% of it's duty and then I'd still have reservations. They actually recommend when mowing is in the application below 100lbs and perfered below 85lbs!
I have never seen a recomendation where traction should even begin to be 100% yet! For tillage they recommend 7% for plowing, there are good numbers on other applications to but for the most part we never see to much slippage other then in muck or mire with a compact on a day to day basis.
I do have one question back for you on your heavy theory, if your tractor is so heavy you have 100 percent traction that it doesn't slip, what gives if it does hit that magical point of extra load that it really needs to or should slip?
I didn't used to recommend that anyone not load the tires! Today our lighter tractors without loaded tires and more wheel spin don't wear them out faster but are often far more then double the life. I do know what the customers are telling me about overall performance and fuel efficeincy and that is what I try to enlighten people here about.
In a Case-IH product info book RF8-85 they had a hypothetical example that to pull a full load at five miles per hour your estimated transmission life would be 10,000 hours, if the max speed would be four miles per hour it would be 6500 hours life and if you could only pull the load at 3.5 mph your life would be reduced to only 1700 hours!
Art,
I never mentioned % slip.
I doubt that the OP will ever do much where full power is transfered (or even the correct 93% of power). His statement is that he wants to mow on steep slopes and general FEL work.
From your numbers, the 39 HP Kubota should be 39hp*120lb/hp=4680 pounds. Taking the mid number you listed. It is an actual 3500ish pounds.
At 85 pounds/hp its 3315, or just about what the Kubota weighs. As he wants an FEL, having more than 85# would be good.
As he will be operating on sloped ground with an FEL, I feel the increased stability of filled tires is mandatory. Especially for a new to occasional user.
My stated opinion that heavier is better is that having perform operations in an abrupt or abusive manor (ram into spoils piles to fill the bucket, or pick up speed and drop a middle buster,etc) due to poor traction is worse for the machine than operating it in a smooth controlled fashion.
I never mentioned % slip.
I doubt that the OP will ever do much where full power is transfered (or even the correct 93% of power). His statement is that he wants to mow on steep slopes and general FEL work.
From your numbers, the 39 HP Kubota should be 39hp*120lb/hp=4680 pounds. Taking the mid number you listed. It is an actual 3500ish pounds.
At 85 pounds/hp its 3315, or just about what the Kubota weighs. As he wants an FEL, having more than 85# would be good.
As he will be operating on sloped ground with an FEL, I feel the increased stability of filled tires is mandatory. Especially for a new to occasional user.
My stated opinion that heavier is better is that having perform operations in an abrupt or abusive manor (ram into spoils piles to fill the bucket, or pick up speed and drop a middle buster,etc) due to poor traction is worse for the machine than operating it in a smooth controlled fashion.
