John Deere 2955 Hydraulic Issues Help!

[mkt]

Tx Jim, Thanks for the information. I'll see if I can find the 28-31 hyd relief valve and remove it, clean it etc. From the drawing it appears it is near the screen ( to the right) of the screen. Thank you! Mark

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

So does it still work ok when cold, but deteriorate as it gets hot?

 

[Tx Jim]

JD closed center hyd systems are so much fun to diagnose that they will make one's hair turn gray or fall out. After 13 yrs serving as a JD dealer service manager diagnosing CC hyd problems I'm a shining example.:laughing:

 

[mkt]

Here is the latest: I called a John Deere dealer in SC and talked with a service manger. I told him what all was going on and he said it was probably brakes but suggested I drain all the oil, put in new filters and see what happens. I drained all the oil ( I had close to 15 gallons in it, milky looking fluid. I put in a new hyd filter ( NAPA) and 9 gallons of Tractor Supply oil. I did pull out the "bypass valve right above the hyd filter and it has one very small piece of debris. I pushed the valve against the spring it worked fine and was tight. I put it back in. I also checked the screen and it was clean.. I started the tractor and she started working with some jerking on the 3 point hitch and lifted the harrow actuator slowly. He said try and screw in the "destroker valve" I did so and back it back out. He said if it works, just run it, so I did... I was able to plow my dove field about 2.5 acres. toward the end of plowing it twice it I started using the brakes to help turn. Then I lost brakes and sterling became jerky and hard with lower RPM. I was going to plow another filed (small area) but I took the tractor back to the shed.. I'm going to let it sit over night and see what the fluid level is tomorrow morning.
The tractor only has one valve that is used to lift the harrow actuator ( cylinder). Thanks everyone..

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Here is the latest: I called a John Deere dealer in SC and talked with a service manger. I told him what all was going on and he said it was probably brakes but suggested I drain all the oil, put in new filters and see what happens. I drained all the oil ( I had close to 15 gallons in it, milky looking fluid. I put in a new hyd filter ( NAPA) and 9 gallons of Tractor Supply oil. I did pull out the "bypass valve right above the hyd filter and it has one very small piece of debris. I pushed the valve against the spring it worked fine and was tight. I put it back in. I also checked the screen and it was clean.. I started the tractor and she started working with some jerking on the 3 point hitch and lifted the harrow actuator slowly. He said try and screw in the "destroker valve" I did so and back it back out. He said if it works, just run it, so I did... I was able to plow my dove field about 2.5 acres. toward the end of plowing it twice it I started using the brakes to help turn. Then I lost brakes and sterling became jerky and hard with lower RPM. I was going to plow another filed (small area) but I took the tractor back to the shed.. I'm going to let it sit over night and see what the fluid level is tomorrow morning.
The tractor only has one valve that is used to lift the harrow actuator ( cylinder). Thanks everyone..

When it's hot is the best time to check the transmission charge pump flow.

 

[Tx Jim]

With hyd oil at operating temp,3pt raised,engine running look in open hyd filler hole behind seat for moving/spraying oil. If moving oil is seen this indicates an internal leak which will severely affect hyd operation.

I seriously doubt if screen had no brake material on it that brakes are causing your tractors hyd problems.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

With hyd oil at operating temp,3pt raised,engine running look in open hyd filler hole behind seat for moving/spraying oil. If moving oil is seen this indicates an internal leak which will severely affect hyd operation.

I seriously doubt if screen had no brake material on it that brakes are causing your tractors hyd problems.

Good info.

 

[gary49]

OP's second post says the screen was full of debris when he first took it out. I believe he also mentioned milky hydraulic oil. Water in the oil can cause lining to come off brake discs. Our 2155 had multiple issues for this reason. Seems likely brake deterioration is what has caused his problem.

 

[Tx Jim]

I agree on milky fluid isn't a good thing BUT milky fluid can cause debris on screen without brake pad deterioration. IMHO & experience amount of brake pad deterioration will be determined by how long moisture is in oil in trans case. If brake pads have deteriorated then metal fines will begin to show up in bottom of trans case & if continued use of tractor fines will end up throughout hyd system. I've spent unknown hrs diagnosing JD CC hyd system problems due to the fact I served as a JD dealer service manager for 13 yrs of the 21 yrs at dealership during the hey day of closed center hyds on JD tractors. It would be very difficult for dealer service manager in SC to accurately diagnose OP's tractor as brake problem over the phone just the same as it's difficult to accurately diagnose hyd problem looking at computer monitor.

 

[mkt]

I checked the fluid level this morning at it wasn稚 even on the dip stick. (No noticeable leaks under tractor) I bought more fluid and I will fill it to correct level. I will also remove the oil cap and look for any spraying oil inside. If it runs I will plow some more and see how it does. One question is if it does have an internal leak where is the fluid going? Thank to all of you!

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I checked the fluid level this morning at it wasn稚 even on the dip stick. (No noticeable leaks under tractor) I bought more fluid and I will fill it to correct level. I will also remove the oil cap and look for any spraying oil inside. If it runs I will plow some more and see how it does. One question is if it does have an internal leak where is the fluid going? Thank to all of you!

I want to say the some of the supply/feed oil tubes might have been cracked inside my friend's 3155. He replaced them all.

 

[beenthere]

I checked the fluid level this morning at it wasn稚 even on the dip stick. (No noticeable leaks under tractor) I bought more fluid and I will fill it to correct level. I will also remove the oil cap and look for any spraying oil inside. If it runs I will plow some more and see how it does. One question is if it does have an internal leak where is the fluid going? Thank to all of you!

In previous reply, you stated the following:

I drained all the oil ( I had close to 15 gallons in it, milky looking fluid. I put in a new hyd filter ( NAPA) and 9 gallons of Tractor Supply oil.

If 15 gal are drained out, and only 9 gal added, seems it would not be a surprise that the fluid level was a bit shy this morning. Hope you get it figured out.

 

[Tx Jim]

Tractordata shows 11.9 gallon hyd oil capacity on a JD 2955 & it's very difficult to get every bit of oil capacity out when performing a routine oil change.

 

[mkt]

I topped off the fluid and it took about 2.5 gallons. I started the tractor and looked in the fill port. Did not see any fluid spraying. I ended up plowing some more with it this afternoon and she did pretty good on high rpms but I don稚 run it very long. It did act up driving home with stiff steering and and I tried the 3 pt hitch and it was shaky and slow coming up even with high rpms. It痴 a dog gone mystery.

 

[Zebrafive]

One question is if it does have an internal leak where is the fluid going? Thank to all of you!

Back to "sump" which is the transmission case. I had the PTO clutch line break. All worked fine until the PTO was engaged, then all hydraulics failed, since trans pump was only pumping to sump via the broken PTO clutch line.

 

[mkt]

I haven稚 run the pto under load lately. But the same issues happen with out running the PTO. I did run the PTO yesterday (no load) and the 3 point hitch did the same jerking coming up. Thanks

 

[mkt]

I finally after 6 months got my tractor back from the repair shop in Bostic NC... The issues were... The brakes were just about to be metal on metal..They replaced the brakes.. They found a pipe inside had cracked / split. The rear pump was supplying plenty of fluid to the front pump but the front pump was not building and flowing enough. They removed the front pump and found nothing but decided to replace the housing and that worked. They then found the valve( forgot the name) just under the brake pedal was not working and repaired it.. So far she is running and flowing... Thanks for all your input... This was a huge job...

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I finally after 6 months got my tractor back from the repair shop in Bostic NC... The issues were... The brakes were just about to be metal on metal..They replaced the brakes.. They found a pipe inside had cracked / split. The rear pump was supplying plenty of fluid to the front pump but the front pump was not building and flowing enough. They removed the front pump and found nothing but decided to replace the housing and that worked. They then found the valve( forgot the name) just under the brake pedal was not working and repaired it.. So far she is running and flowing... Thanks for all your input... This was a huge job...

Thanks for coming back and letting us know. Which pipe was cracked? Was it up front? I guess they didn't have to "split" your tractor after all?