john deere 2520 tractor cab build

/ john deere 2520 tractor cab build #1  

brewers11

Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2012
Messages
34
Location
coudersport,pa
Tractor
John Deere 2520
I'm new here and I'm sure its been done before. I'd like to build a winter cab. Anyone have pictures of a completed cab. I have a good idea of the shape and materials needed.
 
/ john deere 2520 tractor cab build
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#2  
I want to keep the integrity of the tractor. I don't want to drill or weld anything to the machine. I'd also like to make it removable for the summer. I got a great jump start to the frame this weekend. cab1.jpg
 
/ john deere 2520 tractor cab build
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#3  
My thought process was to purchase a cab larger than I need and cut it down to fit. The cab was purchased on EBAY for $200. I thougtht this was a fair price because it had the windows,doors, ROPS, hinges and door handles, roof. So I set off to cut it down and make it fit. The donor cab received a "GI" hair cut. It was too tall, wide and long.cab cuts.jpgcab hamburg 4.jpg
 
/ john deere 2520 tractor cab build
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#5  
I remove the folding ROPS and utilized the donor cab ROPS. Made new mounting plates and extended the front legs. The front legs are attached where the mower draft arms are mounted. So far I haven't drill and welded to the tractor.cab mount 3.jpgcab support.jpg
 
/ john deere 2520 tractor cab build
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#6  
Tacked the frame together. The doors are proving tricky. I bought 1 1/4 square tubing for the door framing. The fender is roughly 90 degrees of the tire diameter. I made 28 slices with a saw-all not completely through the material. I bend each section roughly 3 degrees. Tacked back together it looks decent.cab support 2.jpgdoor corner.jpgdoor frame.jpg
 
/ john deere 2520 tractor cab build
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#7  
I'm cutting the door skins from 14 guage sheet metal. Using a 3 inch radius for the cornersdoor 1.jpgdoor lay out.jpg
 
/ john deere 2520 tractor cab build
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#8  
The most critical part of the build so far is what I'm calling the A Pillar. The ROPS rear upright is tilted forward about 10 degrees. I used the support part of the donor cab and cut it down to fit. It has a fuel filler area that I need to fill with sheet metal. This is will make a true 90 degree upright for the door hinges to mount to. It will slip up under the ROPS bar and secure on the base with one bolt. It also wraps around the back to hold the rear window.pillar unpainted.jpg
 
/ john deere 2520 tractor cab build
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#9  
I make no claim to being a welder, this is my first real project. I can turn 2 pieces of metal into 1, thats about it. I bought a miller 211 mig and watched a couple of youtube videos. The pillar looks alot better after grinding and primer.piller primed.jpgpillar side.jpg
 
/ john deere 2520 tractor cab build
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#10  
The doors are mounted now, they remove with "jeep" style hinges.door skinned.jpg
 
/ john deere 2520 tractor cab build
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#11  
New hurdle last night. The brake pedal when fully pressed hits the cab frame. I hate to alter the the tractor, to this point on the project I haven't welded or drilled to it yet. brake.jpgbrake2.jpg
 
/ john deere 2520 tractor cab build
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#12  
I took a break from fabrication and mounted the mower. I was pleasantly surprised there are no rattles even at higher RPMs and the mower engaged.mower.jpg
 
/ john deere 2520 tractor cab build
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#13  
While to doors are out for glass, I gathered parts for the heater. I want it mounted on the roll bar pointed towards the windshield
heater 2.jpg
heater.jpg
 
/ john deere 2520 tractor cab build
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#14  
The doors, front and rear window are back from the installer. I have alot of trim work to finish and handles but heres a quick look.
door side.jpgback window.jpgfront wind shield.jpg
 
 
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