John Deere 1026 R

[pniebieski]

I have a John Deere 1026R tractor. From the get go I've had a tough time connecting the hydraulic connectors. I've tried many times too release the pressure in the lines to easily connect the cuppings but many times it wont work. Taken the tractor to John Deere but all I get is I have to release pressure.....It don't work .. any suggestions

 

[s219]

I think it's important to relieve pressure before disconnecting (by shutting off tractor and toggling the lever to all possible positions). Then you would not have a buildup of pressure in the lines (other than maybe some thermal expansion, but that should be minor at ambient temps).

So that's my question -- are you doing anything to relieve pressure before disconnecting? That's the time when you can have an influence. Later on, when trying to reconnect, you can't do much but fight it and/or make a mess by manually popping the connect to let some fluid out.

 

[pniebieski]

That's the problem....I try all levers to release the pressure but most of the time I struggle to connect a connector....is there anything else I can do to release pressure

 

[Rocky Hoffler]

If there is a fitting available you can crack it very carefully as it will have pressure on it maybe wrap a rag around it to catch fluid hydraulic fluid under pressure is extremelydangerous and also movement can take place when pressure is released I think in previous thread it was mentioned after shutting down tractor move controls to relieve pressure not a bad idea.
some couplings are designed to hook up with some pressure you might check in to this option be careful

 

[sal64]

pop the balls on the connector with a soft hammer.

 

[DeereMann]

If you have an FEL, Deere's instructions are kind of screwy - they recommend putting the bucket up on edge, then releasing pressure - well, if you do that, the bucket drops. So what's the point?

I know what they're getting at - the self-standing FEL (quick-tatch) is better balanced on bucket edge when parked. But to do that, you have to disconnect at least one hydraulic line (tilt cylinder drain) under pressure. Which is both not good practice for the equipment, and really hard to re-connect (ask me how I know - took the golden shower releasing pressure when re-connecting).

I'd say forget what Deere is recommending, park the FEL someplace where kids can't jump on it, and disconnect with zero pressure on all cylinders. No problems.

Good luck!

 

[DeereMann]

I took the golden shower doing that! :irked:

 

[KennyG]

Do you leave the loader outside when you take it off? The dealer showed me how to, after shutting the tractor off, move the joystick to all four positions and then do it again before unhooking the connections. Same before hooking it up. Works like a charm for me EXCEPT if I take the loader off outside and it sits in the sun. The hydraulic fluid will heat up enough in that case that's it's almost impossible to hook up the connectors. If I have to relieve pressure, I put a rag over the connector and tap it with a hammer.

 

[RG1]

If it's an FEL that you are having the most trouble with when hooking back up, try this-

Take a floor jack and slide it under the torque tube cross member just behind the bucket that runs from one side of the loader frame to the other. Then, jack the tube up slightly to relieve the pressure in the roll back/dump cylinders. They are usually the culprit when it is hard to reattach the couplings, as the bucket will tend to roll back under it's own weight over time when stored, which in turn pressurizes the cylinders/lines. You can also just grab the torque tube and lift the bucket up by hand (the buckets/loader arms on the smaller units aren't so heavy that the average man can't lift them enough to relieve the pressure) a little and stuff some boards under it to hold it if you can't use a floor jack, or get one to where you're trying to hook back up at. Every JD FEL I have owned has had this same issue.

 

[DeereMann]

Do you leave the loader outside when you take it off? The dealer showed me how to, after shutting the tractor off, move the joystick to all four positions and then do it again before unhooking the connections. Same before hooking it up. Works like a charm for me EXCEPT if I take the loader off outside and it sits in the sun. The hydraulic fluid will heat up enough in that case that's it's almost impossible to hook up the connectors. If I have to relieve pressure, I put a rag over the connector and tap it with a hammer.

No I store it inside my pole barn at constant temperature. Yes, it sure would expand the hydraulic oil sitting outside in the sun! It would also contract if sitting out in the cold.

What your dealer showed you conflicts with the recommended install/removal in the loader manual. They specifically say to tip it up on the bucket lip. Well, you can't relieve hydraulic pressure from the tilt cylinders if you do that! Crazy.

 

[DeereMann]

If it's an FEL that you are having the most trouble with when hooking back up, try this-

Take a floor jack and slide it under the torque tube cross member just behind the bucket that runs from one side of the loader frame to the other. Then, jack the tube up slightly to relieve the pressure in the roll back/dump cylinders. They are usually the culprit when it is hard to reattach the couplings, as the bucket will tend to roll back under it's own weight over time when stored, which in turn pressurizes the cylinders/lines. You can also just grab the torque tube and lift the bucket up by hand (the buckets/loader arms on the smaller units aren't so heavy that the average man can't lift them enough to relieve the pressure) a little and stuff some boards under it to hold it if you can't use a floor jack, or get one to where you're trying to hook back up at. Every JD FEL I have owned has had this same issue.

Good idea - the only caveat is you'd need a guy to lift the tube while the other plugs in the hoses - unless you make a shim stick to wedge it up. Still seems kind of dumb to have to do this - I just park the FEL in the corner with bucket flat where nobody can push on it. The park stand is stable enough as long as nobody pushes on it with the bucket flat.

 

[RG1]

Good idea - the only caveat is you'd need a guy to lift the tube while the other plugs in the hoses - unless you make a shim stick to wedge it up. Still seems kind of dumb to have to do this - I just park the FEL in the corner with bucket flat where nobody can push on it. The park stand is stable enough as long as nobody pushes on it with the bucket flat.

Actually, I do this by myself somewhat regularly. But, I use a floor jack to simply raise the torque tube a small amount to relive pressure. Since the rollback causes some slack to be in the lines/cylinders/bucket connection, I can also raise the tube by myself enough to remove the slack and pressure and slide a few boards stacked up under the tube with one of my feet if I have to. I park my loader(s) on my smooth shop floor, but they still settle back (roll back) under their own weight over time, and it doesn't take that much time for them to roll back enough to cause pressure problems in the cylinders. In case someone is wondering, none of my loaders have been old and worn from high usage neither. They were bought brand new and did this from day one.

 

[DeereMann]

Ah - good idea, RG1. I am losing both my boys to scholastic activity shortly, so that's a good shortcut to use - hydraulic floor jack.

Thanks,

 

[George2615]

After shutting down the tractor and moving the joystick to all positions have you tried putting the loader stick in float mode. Float mode should relieve pressure from the up and down ports. When in float move the lever left and right again to relieve pressure on the curl mode ports.

 

[DeereMann]

After shutting down the tractor and moving the joystick to all positions have you tried putting the loader stick in float mode. Float mode should relieve pressure from the up and down ports. When in float move the lever left and right again to relieve pressure on the curl mode ports.

Yes, but the question was why Deere's Manual says to set the bucket at an angle prior to this. If you move the joystick after shutdown, the bucket drops. If you don't, you have a pressurized tilt cylinder line. Makes no sense.

 

[RG1]

Yes, but the question was why Deere's Manual says to set the bucket at an angle prior to this. If you move the joystick after shutdown, the bucket drops. If you don't, you have a pressurized tilt cylinder line. Makes no sense.

Agreed, no sense at all. Maybe JD tests their new FEL designs in a vacuum with zero gravity.

Plus, as we've been discussing, it makes no difference how much you try to relieve pressure by working the joystick if it gets built up again while the FEL is removed.

 

[chevy]

Yes, but the question was why Deere's Manual says to set the bucket at an angle prior to this. If you move the joystick after shutdown, the bucket drops. If you don't, you have a pressurized tilt cylinder line. Makes no sense.

The manual does make sense.

The reason for setting the bucket at the angle is to raise the front wheels of the tractor off of the ground, is to allow the latches to be opened. After the latches are open, it dose not mater what the bucket angle is, until the the loader is reinstalled & the latches need to be closed.

I have been using the process that George described, for many years. I do hold the joy stick in the dump positions for a few seconds or until the loader stops moving. Most times the bucket will settle to be flat on the floor.

 

[DeereMann]

The manual does make sense.

The reason for setting the bucket at the angle is to raise the front wheels of the tractor off of the ground, is to allow the latches to be opened. After the latches are open, it dose not mater what the bucket angle is, until the the loader is reinstalled & the latches need to be closed.

I have been using the process that George described, for many years. I do hold the joy stick in the dump positions for a few seconds or until the loader stops moving. Most times the bucket will settle to be flat on the floor.

Ah! So the only purpose is to remove mechanical pressure from the latch? OK, but if memory serves, the manual shows the removed loader with bucket angled on edge so..........???

 

[chevy]

Ah! So the only purpose is to remove mechanical pressure from the latch? OK, but if memory serves, the manual shows the removed loader with bucket angled on edge so..........???

In my manual, the only picture of the bucket angled, in the detach loader section, is before the loader is removed from the tractor. None of the pictures of after the loader is removed in that section show the front of the bucket.