JD 4310 & BrushHog

rpolcyn · Jan 31, 2003

We are buying a JD 4310 with 430 front end loader and other attachments. The dealer has convinced my son that using a MX6 rotary mower with the 4310 is fine as long as we leave the loader on. The JD charts do not recommend this combination. Has anyone had any experience with using the MX6 with the 4310?

beenthere · Jan 31, 2003

Yes
I would guess that the FEL suggestion is for weight to counter-balance the heavier weight of the MX6 (as opposed to the lighter weight rotary cutters-613). If heavy brush is what you are going to "rotary cut" thus the reason for wanting the heavier MX6, then what I do is leave the loader on just to push over some of the brush ahead of the tractor. It feeds under the tractor better than if pushing brush over with the 4310 front and front axle only. Otherwise, if you don't like the FEL on, then just get the weights to hang on the front end weight bar.

Your dealer is just trying to help you, IMO. He isn't gaining anything by saying you should run it with the FEL on, other than saying you will need something for counter-balancing weight up there. Or the dealer doesn't want you to run out there with big ideas about using the MX6 and then come whimping back to him saying it doesn't work, and he ends up with a used MX6 on his hands. That does happen with green-horns, I am told, and it is expensive for the dealer.

You can find out on your own as well. Just be fore-warned that the front end will be light. But then, maybe doing wheelies is your thing. Keep the individual brakes unlocked so you can steer the rig. Or keep the rotary cutter on the ground, which will allow you to steer with the front wheels. Kinda all what you prefer to do. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
/w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

JohnMiller3 · Jan 31, 2003

...using a MX6 rotary mower with the 4310 is fine...

I feel the MX5 would be a much better match up for the 4310 considering PTO hp wise... (not even looking at the hundreds of dollars cheaper it should be!)

I would leave the loader on during brush hogging for protection of the tractor's body and for front end weight either way... but the 6' unit will cut "grassy" materials in a level field with some front counter ballast as with the loader attached... but for real brush hogging and general all round use... stick with the 5'...

rancar · Jan 31, 2003

The dealer has convinced my son that using a MX6 rotary mower with the 4310 is fine as long as we leave the loader on. The JD charts do not recommend this combination.

This is really pushing the limitations of the JD 4310.....think you may be making a mistake here. Go with the MX5. Also, JD performs many operational tests to determine capacity limitations of tractors and various attachments. That's what these charts are formulated upon. It might be prudent to heed to these chart recommendations and question more why this dealer is trying to sell you the MX6 rather than the more compatible MX5.

.....Bob

DDT · Jan 31, 2003

I had a 4300 and used a 5' SQ60 bushhog (lighter duty) It was all it wanted in thick stuff. I now have a 4400 and it handles it alot better but I would go any bigger for the HP.

Anonymous Poster · Feb 1, 2003

A neighbor of mine has the 513 rotary cutter.....and that thing is bullet proof...one tough product......not really..................that may be stretching it a little.../w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

tim_s · Feb 3, 2003

I have used an MX5 on my 2wd 4300 (no FEL ) for a year. I had 4 suitcase weights on the front and it is still very light. Scary sometimes. I did also use a Hawse brand 6' cutter on horse pasture with no problems, but it is probably half the weight of the MX6. Personaly I would go with the LX6 on a 4300.

rancar · Feb 3, 2003

Personaly I would go with the LX6 on a 4300. 

You mean MX6 on the 4300? Why would you want to do this when you cite previously it was scary sometimes with the MX5 on the 4300? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

JohnMiller3 · Feb 3, 2003

( the weight of the MX6... go with the LX6 on a 4300.)

Hi Bob...

Maybe he thinks the "L" is light duty vs. the "M" medium duty... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

...and we know the x13 series is definitely NOT the way to go /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif... which is the "Very" light duty rotary cutter... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif (unless you're cutting strictly grassy material...)

DFB · Feb 3, 2003

The LX is a new cutter for Deere. 4', 5', and 6' models. Open round back design.

There's an ad for them in the JAN edition of "The Furrow", Deere's farm magazine.

DFB

beenthere · Feb 3, 2003

The 513 is okay for brush, but not real tough unless one adds some steel to beef up the back side. The metal is a bit thin, I suspect it is on purpose to keep the weight down. I added some 1 1/4" square tubing to the rear that makes it much more resistant to bending when backing up and catching stumps and dirt banks. I much prefer to cut brush with the FEL on, but may do some light weed mowing without any extra weight on the front, including the FEL.

Anonymous Poster · Feb 3, 2003

A neighbor of mine has the 513 and after about 1 weeks use it was appaling the way that thing was bent up on the back.....like you, he had to do a little modification/fab work to get it right....and thin material is an understatement....I bet if you turned the 513 it would probably say "Campbells soup" on the other side....nothing much more than a piece of tin /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif...He could have almost bought 2 nice King Kutters for the money he paid for the 513.....anyway.

beenthere · Feb 3, 2003

With the modifications I made, I am quite happy with what the 513 can do. If one didn't back up, then I suspect the rear steel on the skirt would hold up pretty well. However, I do a lot of brush cutting by backing into the brush. I would rather not drive forward over anything as big as what I grind up in the 513 going in reverse.

Attached is a pic showing the three square tubes I welded onto the lower rear skirt (after beating it back into line)

Anonymous Poster · Feb 3, 2003

That looks nice...too bad John Deere does not do something like that....I noticed on those 513's the length of the angle coming in towards the end of the wheel is a little longer than on the one side....do you know what I mean ?

JohnMiller3 · Feb 3, 2003

Like this one...? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Ya know... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif, now that ya mentioned it... I saw a write-up on the LX series a while back and talking about the JD quickhitch compatibility...

So here's the "L" for Light duty now... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Kyle_in_Tex · Feb 4, 2003

I have a 4310 e hydro and the LX5 is all it can handle. Get the slipper clutch model. PAY THE EXTRA $100 BUCKS FOR IT! It will save you time and money in the long run! The only bad thing I can say about the LX5 is that when you hit an ant mound or something, the blade kicks back and doesn't seem to return properly to normal postion. Centrifugal force is suppossed to keep it out but not enough of it to do it. Not sure why. So when this happens, it shakes out of balance. I have to slow Rpm down and back up suddenly to jar it free. I'll write more about it if dealer has anything to say as far as recalls or such. I heard that old rotarys turned much faster RPM's before the lawyers/Ralph Nader got their finger in it. Is this true???
Oh yes almost forgot,
John, even with the quick attach, you still have to get off the darn tractor for the Pto....How many have pulled away forgetting to disconnect PTO??? Come on, fess up...you've had to put that tube back inside the bigger one. hahaha
Later...Kyle

Hoeman00 · Feb 5, 2003

'Centrifugal force is suppossed to keep it out but not enough of it to do it. Not sure why. '

It could have to do w/ how new the mower is and/or rust
for setting between uses.
The nut that holds the blades on are locknuts and these could be too tight also.
Pick it up and block it and look under to see if one of these
are the problem.

rdbrumfield · Feb 5, 2003

You can't tighten the nuts that hold the blades on too much. The pins have a key stamped into them that keep them from turning inside the crossmember. The bolts have a shoulder on them to keep them from tightening on the blade to let it swing free.
When a blade doesn't swing back out by centrifugal force, it is usually because it has spun around and wedged itself against the crossmember or the stumpjumper disc. It is posible that you have the blades on upside down, this would cause the blades to wedge and the spring in the blade would keep it there, just a possibility.

BillyP · Feb 5, 2003

( You can't tighten the nuts that hold the blades on too much. )

I agree. The JD cutter I have recommends tightening the blades to 750 ft lbs. That's pretty darn tight.

Billy

JimMc · Feb 5, 2003

FYI - The non-symmetrical rear of the 513 allows for a more even spreading of the shredded material due to the rotational direction of the blades. If the right rear were to be close to the blades like the left, material would pile up in a windrow just to the right of center. The system works pretty well, but you will notice cutters with an opening in the rear or with air management baffles typically can be built with a symmetrical tail.