JD 2210, Kubota BX23, or something else?

RalphVa · Apr 25, 2005

Check out the top link on a Kubota BX. They're probably 1/2" pins. Full Cat 1 has 3/4" pins. Think the lift height probably isn't much on the smaller 3 pt lifts, too. It's nothing to brag about on the 4010 but is enough to lift some stuff like the soil ripper I inherited (and not have it snag dirt on every hole the rear wheels drop into).

The lift is about 200-250 # more than the 2210 and likely the BX23, on both the front and the rear.

Ralph

jpr62902 · Apr 26, 2005

The BX pins are Cat 1 (3/4").

mbielick · Apr 27, 2005

I recently bought a Simplicity XL 4WD 27HP Diesel. It has the 60" deck, 60" hydraulic blade, and a 50" PTO driven roto-tiller. The diesel comes with a rear 3point hitch, and PTO as standard. With the current $800 offer, and 12mo. same as cash option, it was out the door under $13K. It's the best machine I have ever owned. I have nearly 5 acres to cut, with 25-30% slopes and a 550 ft sloped driveway. I cut the yard in under 3 hours, and I am just now getting into rototilling my 1 acre garden. I can't account for it's longevity yet, because I have only 25 hrs on it, but it is a blast to operate. I looked at the JD units, and the Kubotas. Both were more $ once all the attachments were added, and were not made in the USA. I know this isn't the primary concern of many out there, but, with all else equal, I'd like to support the home grown stuff. The Legacy is a bit smaller than most sub compacts, but it operates with the best of them. And it's made in Wisconsin.

Av8r3400 · Apr 27, 2005

( And it's made in Wisconsin.)

Assembled in Wisconsin from foreign parts. Where are the major components made: Motor, Trans, Hyd pump?

Nice machine never the less! Any pictures?? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

mbielick · Apr 27, 2005

The diesel IS made in Japan. The hydro is made by TuffTorq in Tennessee. The frame, and all machanical components are made in Wisconsin. The exhaust is made by Nelson in the states. The hydraulic blade and rototiller are made in Wisconsin. The tires are Carlisle made in the states.....ANY MORE DETAILS YOU NEED???

jpr62902 · Apr 27, 2005

The Kubota is assembled in Georgia, with the FEL and BH made in the U.S. of A. I see you're a newbie to TBN so WELCOME!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

From your caps perhaps you took AV8R's post the wrong way. Here at TBN we strive to post accurate factual info and somtimes it's taken the wrong way, i.e. no antagonism intended.

Your attachment didn't take. I sure would like to get a gander at the XL. Can you try again? Use the edit feature in your previous post.

mbielick · Apr 27, 2005

No harm intended. I just try to support the Made in USA concept wherever possible.

By the way, I think the photo made it this time.

Av8r3400 · Apr 27, 2005

Thank you, jpr. No antagonism intended. I apologize if it was inferred. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I used to work for a company as a machinist which is a subcontractor to Simplicity, so I know some components are made here. Just pointing out that in our global economy nothing is made entirely here. (motors, bearings, gears, steel? All foreign.)

Like I said earlier, Nice machine though. Any Pictures? /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

EDIT: What's the little cuttie-pie in the garage behind the tractor???? No teasing!

mbielick · Apr 27, 2005

The item in the garage is my totally not made in USA 1968 Triumph. However, the only reason IT runs today is I replaced it's British Lucas, (Prince of Darkness) electricals with "made in USA" Delco electricals. Never had a problem since.

By the way, I did come close to buying a Kubota BX23, but it was to costly with the attachments added. Etremeely nice machine though... The G2160 was nowhere near the machine the Legacy offered, (stamped steel frame, smaller engine...) but was similiarly priced. And, by the way, 2/3 of the Kubotas are manufactured overseas, 1/3 in Georgia.
The John Deere 495 was nice, but VERY pricey, especially with the Diesel, 4WD, and Rototiller. Resale value is better on the JD unit, so that should be taken into account if you plan to resell the unit in the near future. (As you can tell by the 1968 Triumph, I tend to keep things a long tiome, so resale didn't mean much in my decision.)

Henro · Apr 27, 2005

mbielick,

I was surprised to see no ROPS on your tractor. Did you take it off, or do they not come with one unless a loader is installed?

Attached is an image of one with a ROPS on it. I think it is the same tractor... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Anjou · Apr 27, 2005

The pins on the JD 2210 are Full Cat. 1 (3/4"). The dealer tells me the big problem is the vertical clearance for some implements like PHDs.

Anjou · Apr 27, 2005

Well I've spent the last week doing research and soliciting advice. I realized the BX23 would be too costly, so I ended up comparing the JD 2210 with the Kubota BX2230 (basically the BX23 w/o the BH). I decided they're pretty much equivalent tractors, but I must admit I prefer the JD, even though all my neighbors with Kubota's spoke well of their tractors' performance. The cheapest price I could find for a JD 2210 w/ 53" FEL, 62" MMM, and BB was $14K, including the 6% sales tax. Does that sound reasonable for Central PA? The Kubota was about $1K cheaper. My wife and I went to the dealership to look things over in person and ask a bunch more questions... I liked the ability to mow at up to 5.5". That would do great for weed control in the pasture. The cost is still looming overhead like an angry black cloud. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif We've got until Monday morning to decide. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I'm having difficulty justifying the FEL and for mowing alone, the JD 2210 is just too much (from a size and cost perspective).

mbielick · Apr 27, 2005

The ROPS comes with the FEL, and is optional on the base unit. Because of liability concerns, the cost for the ROPS alone is over $800. I'm wating until I purchase the FEL to install the ROPS with it as a package.

Just couldn't afford everything at once...

newcountry · Apr 27, 2005

( I decided they're pretty much equivalent tractors, but I must admit I prefer the JD)

They are very similiar, aren't they? It really comes down to some of the small things.

( The cheapest price I could find for a JD 2210 w/ 53" FEL, 62" MMM, and BB was $14K, including the 6% sales tax. Does that sound reasonable for Central PA? )

The price I was quoted for everything minus the ballast box was $13700 before sales tax in Kansas. I didn't shop that price real hard, though, as I went the other way, with the Kubota. Still I think with tax and the ballast box you're getting a decent deal. Might you consider for ballast getting a blade box or a rear blade instead? I'm pretty new to all this, but I don't see advantages over a ballast box (one function) over the others (multiple functions).

( I liked the ability to mow at up to 5.5". That would do great for weed control in the pasture. )

Not sure this is a good use of your finish mower. There's been a couple postings in the last week on this matter. Pasture control is best left to a rotary cutter (aka bush hog).

( We've got until Monday morning to decide. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif )

Why? What's the rush? If it's a dealer putting the pressure on you to buy, forget about that. Don't let a pushy dealer back you into a corner. I took over a month to decide. There are some on this site who are taking much longer than that, and that is OK. With this kind of purchase you should take as much time as you're comfortable with.

Anjou · Apr 27, 2005

"Not sure this is a good use of your finish mower."
I was figuring on just topping the pasture at 5.5". Why would I want to buy/use a brush hog?

"What's the rush?"
The 0% financing for 36 months ends on 05/02. The dealer's not pressuring me. It seems like the JD 2210 is selling well.

JDFANATIC · Apr 28, 2005

Anjou,

A box blade or rear blade is not enough ballast for the FEL on the 2210 for heavy work -- especially with the 53" bucket. I almost learned this the hard way. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Anjou · Apr 28, 2005

If I wanted to substitute another implement for the ballast box, it would be the 647 Tiller. Would that be adequate?

newcountry · Apr 28, 2005

Good point on the financing. Gotta have that, unless you've got cash to plop down (RIGHT!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

As far as the pasture control, I have not used bush hog or finish mower on pasture yet, so my experience is limited to what I've read. If interested go to 'Main Index' and in the search window type in 'rotary cutter' and read some of the posts over the past 10 days or so. There was one guy using his belly mower on it and got lots of advice to avoid that. I don't know if mowing it at 5.5 inches would make a difference or not. I do know that I will be shopping for a decent used rotary cutter soon /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

KiotiJohn · Apr 28, 2005

( If I wanted to substitute another implement for the ballast box, it would be the 647 Tiller. Would that be adequate? )
It really depends on just how much you want to lift with your loader. In most cases, I think you'd be fine with just the tiller, but your tractor MFG will have a recommendation about how much weight needs to be on the back for maximum loader lift. With less weight on the rear, you'll have that much less lift in the loader.
A ballast box has never been an issue for me, as I use everything from my box blade to the backhoe on it depending on how much I need to lift.
John

JDFANATIC · Apr 29, 2005

Anjou,

The 210 loader manual is kind of confusing, but calls for 463 lbs of ballast to pick up 275 lbs (including the bucket weight). Then it goies up to 518 lbs to lift 330, 595 lbs to lift 385, and then 683 lbs to lift 440-715 lbs. For the last two wts (660 and 715 lbs) it calls for the rear tires to be loaded. Check and see what the weight of the 647 is and then think about what you will be using the FEL for -- that should give you your answer. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif