Iseki 2205 glow plug question

[Calveryc]

I'm a tractor noob and just bought a 2205 with a few small issues. The first is the brakes are weak but I'm sure I can wait a bit to fix those more importantly now is that the glow plug indicator doesn't seem to be heating up. I assume its like other tractors where you turn the key backwards and it will heat up and glow but it doesn't seem to be doing that. Now I know nothing about tractors so should I replace the glow plugs, the indicator or both? If so is there a thread on how to do it? Thanks

 

[Dr Dave]

:welcomeo you have a 12volt test light or a volt/ ohm meter? If not get a test light, check for voltage at the terminal on the glow plugs, if you have voltage, then disconnect all glow plug wires from the glow plugs. Connect clamp on test light to battery pos terminal, then touch the probe on the test light to each glow plug, each glow plug should light your light if good.

If you did not have voltage in the first test, then check for a blown fuse or circuit breaker, check the relay, the switch and the wiring.

You should Google, a wiring diagram or manual for your tractor.

Dave

 

[Calveryc]

If came with a manual so ill look and see if it has a wiring diagram.

 

[Calveryc]

This is my new tractor. I have another question. I found a ROPS for $750.00 online, is there any that are cheaper? That's a lot of money considering I only paid $2500.00 for the tractor. I need one because I don't want to die but I would love to find one cheaper. Also can you widen the stance on these?

 

[bakerg]

On my Massey, I have to turn the key clockwise, just before the start position to get the glow plugs to work. On an old Universal tractor my dad had we had to turn the switch backwards. Manual should tell you the right way to turn the key.:2cents:

 

[Calveryc]

Ill have to read it. The manual is a little shady it looks like it was xerox'd and is not too informative. It's more of a repair manual with diagrams.

 

[rich_ncal]

On the TS-1610 (it could be the same) there are four positions for the key. All the way counter clockwise is off, first clockwise is on, next clockwise is on with high beam lights and third clockwise (as far clockwise as it will go) is on with low beam.

A separate nob, the starter switch, turn this clockwise to start the tractor or first turn that counterclockwise and hold apply voltage to the glow plugs. Hold and count hold long you want to apply the voltage to the glow plugs.

To turn the engine off, turn the key far counterclockwise to off, and then pull the stop level. The stop level is the level the closed the value on the air intake of the engine. You can also pull the stop level first and then turn off the key.

There is a separate manual, the safety and operations manual, that covers this with figures.

 

[Calveryc]

That's how mine is also. When I get home ill check and see if that gets the glow plugs going.

 

[NHmitch]

Thats a great looking tractor! I installed ROPS on my Iseki also, since I had the same concearn. I did indepth research, and I connected with the people at NYCAM, and Rollover Protective Structure ROPS Retrofit Program I also faced the same cost issue, and I had to spend $800 on mine. The piece of mind that they give you is worth every penny. It is a lot, but I figured my life was worth $800 to my family, so I saved for a bit, and bought them. After speaking with several Ag Safety offices, both government, and private, I found that it was extremely unsafe to build your own set up, or buy one that does not fit properly, and take the chance of a modification failing. They have to be ASAE 383.1 certified meet the strick structural standards required to be safe, and to protect you from liability if you or someone else gets hurt in a roll over. This is a good article to read: NIOSH FACE Program: Iowa Case Report 03IA020 | CDC/NIOSH I was lucky to find that my state, New Hampshire offered a rebate program, and they paid me back for the cost of the ROPS. I am not sure if TN offers the same program, but I will look for you. I bought the hercules ROPS, and it is a great, strong set up. It fit perfectly on my 30 year old Iseki. This is the same set up I have, and the only one that was SAE certified, and avialable: http://justtractorparts.com/rolloverprotectionstructuresropsforisekicompacttractors.aspx This model is for your tractor, and may be the same one that you found? I hope that this helps a bit, I wish I had a better answer as far as cost goes.. Very nice tractor! Thanks for the photo! Below is mine with the ROPS installed:

View attachment 302739 This is my new tractor. I have another question. I found a ROPS for $750.00 online, is there any that are cheaper? That's a lot of money considering I only paid $2500.00 for the tractor. I need one because I don't want to die but I would love to find one cheaper. Also can you widen the stance on these?

 

[Calveryc]

Thanks for all the info. I did check into that and they don't offer the retrofit in TN. The ROPS I found was from justrractorparts.com for $750.00 it seems to be the only one I can find to fit my tractor and from what I understand its a bolt on.

 

[Calveryc]

You guys are the best. Alright glow plug problem solved thanks again. New issue though, I having trouble with my key switch. I turn it and the lights come on and the two red lights come on and then when I turn the switch to start the engine nothing happens. Ill fiddle with turning the key back and forth and trying to start the tractor and finally it will turn over and start. I think the key switch is glitchy. Y'all's thoughts?

 

[bakerg]

Either bad switch or a loose connection on the switch.

Just out of curiosity, what was wrong with your glow plugs?

 

[Calveryc]

Well I bought it from an 85 year old man who didn't know it had glow plugs to warm so I assumed that you turned the key backwards like my buddies kubota. However one of the guys on the site told me to turn the starter knob backwards to warm them and presto! Would it cause any damage for him to have started that tractor for years without warming the glow plugs?

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

If he used ether that wouldn't have been good. Since it survived until now you're probably ok though. Starting a diesel w/o any aids (i.e. intake heaters, glow plugs, block heaters, etc.) in colder weather (~<=40 degrees F) takes a lot of battery power and causes unnecessary wear on the starter so that may be needing attention sooner rather than later.

 

[rich_ncal]

" I having trouble with my key switch. I turn it and the lights come on and the two red lights come on and then when I turn the switch to start the engine nothing happens. Ill fiddle with turning the key back and forth and trying to start the tractor and finally it will turn over and start. I think the key switch is glitchy. Y'all's thoughts?"

I think if the two red lights come on the key switch may be good. In the wiring diagram I have, there are two dash lights and the starter circuit on to the same line from the switch. So if the circuit for the two lights gets power from the key switch, then it looks like the circuits that follow downstream should be getting voltage.

The wiring diagram shows the line from the key switch flows through a couple of things in the path to the starter, first through the a connector that splits the voltage to the two lights on the dash, then through one of the lights to the regulator and from the regulator to the start/glow plug switch and from the start/glow plug switch through a clutch safety relay and then to the solenoid on the starter.

On my tractor there are only three dash lights, the wiring diagram I have shows four lights. So my tractor does not exactly match the wiring diagram but it should be similar.

On my tractor someone bypassed the clutch safety. So my tractor will start in gear.

There are two connectors on the solenoid on top of the starter. One is a direct line from the battery. The other solenoid connector is the line that gets voltage when turning the start/glow plug switch to the start position. If you have a volt meter that reads DC voltage you could connect it to on the line that controls the starter at the solenoid. See if the starter is always getting +12V on that line when you turn the start/glow plug switch to the start position. That could tell you if there is problem in the starter.