Is this MIG wire even usable?

[Cord]

I picked up a used mig welder the other day and the seller threw in a couple 40lb spools of wire. Good deal, right? Well, he had told me the machine was set up for .045 but it's actually 1/16" flux core. I wasn't familiar with wire number so I googled it: er120s-1. Yea, 120ksi wire! Looks like the wire is intended for super strong steels like T-1. It'll be a rare day when I weld anything stronger than mild steel. Can I use this wire on mild steel or should I just dump it on craigslist?

 

[dstig1]

Use it if you can. Stronger weld metal wont' hurt anything with mild steel, just so long as you don't think you are really getting 120ksi welds...as the base steel will be the limiting factor. Just think of it like 7018 on steroids.

 

[Shield Arc]

I wouldn't use that wire on mild steel. It's for HY100 steel. I was on a job one time splicing I-beams. One of the weldors grabbed 110-18 out of the wrong rod oven to use. The welding inspector refused to accept the beam. Weldor had to cut the splice out, and re do with 7018.

Don't be surprised if that wire gives you nothing but trouble. Most likely it will have worm tracks in the weld. :thumbdown:

 

[Cord]

Ok, spent some time researching my options this morning and I'm not liking the 1/16" wire. I think it's just too much wire for what I'm typically going to do. I think I'd like to change the machine down to .035 or .045 and go with a flux core wire. I already have a couple of spools of .035 solid wire, but I don't have a gas regulator and will be welding outside for the moment. I do have the cylinders so to upgrade to gas will be no more difficult than buying a regulator. I want a all position wire so it's very versatile. Ease of use and appearance is important. My dealer recommended a E71T-GS wire, but I believe you can't multi-pass with it. I was thinking of a E7T-11 (NR-211). What I don't know is if this wire is copper coated. I'd like to have the coating to keep the wire from rusting before it can be used. The machine is a PowCon 550 with a feeder. On single phase I'll have 30-375 amps. Thoughts? Recommendations???

 

[dragoneggs]

I'm no pro weldor and barely a hack... but from a metallurgical point of view, it doesn't make sense unless your parent metal is similar. Higher KSI generally means more brittle material so it will be less forgiving right in the area where your stress concentration is (generally I say again). I wouldn't waste my time for the potential headache. But if I were a pro weldor, then I could see wanting it in my tool box.

 

[Shield Arc]

Cord I've run a little self shielded wire in the past. Hobart's 21-B, and Lincoln's NR-212 are great wires.
The 21-B weld is 1/16"
The NR-212 is .045". Both of these welds were made with a CC only engine drive welder. You'll get even better results with a CV machine.

 

[RedNeckGeek]

If the machine is already set up with the high strength wire, why not try it by making a couple fillet welds on some scrap? After you chip off the slag, get out your grinder and see how difficult it is to smooth out the contour, or try to cut it with a porta-band or hack saw. Then think about the first time you'll have to cut one of those welds out. Might be OK with a torch or plasma, but forget about a saw and you'll take a lot longer with a grinder, even with a thin cutoff blade.

As far as welding with the stuff goes, I'd pay attention to what Shield Arc is tellin' ya.

If all you're doing is welding dumpsters or BBQs, it might be OK. But if I was repairing a tractor or truck where failure of the weld might cause consequential damage, I'd hold out for a weld metal appropriate for the base metal being welded.

 

[Shield Arc]

But if I were a pro weldor, then I could see wanting it in my tool box.

I'd use it to weld a broken T1 fork on a fork lift.

 

[dstig1]

Ha! Shows what I know! :laughing: But i would give it a try and see how it works. Free is free, after all. You might be pleasantly surprised...

 

[Cord]

I'd use it to weld a broken T1 fork on a fork lift.

I threw it up on ebay. I'm guessing on 90% of this stuff, so can you proofread my listing? Any feedback would be appreciated.
35 lb Roll L Tec ER120S 1 1 16 034 Steel MIG Flux Core Welding Wire | eBay

 

[dragoneggs]

I threw it up on ebay. I'm guessing on 90% of this stuff, so can you proofread my listing? Any feedback would be appreciated.
35 lb Roll L Tec ER120S 1 1 16 034 Steel MIG Flux Core Welding Wire | eBay

Good luck... I think smart move if you don't see a need.

 

[Shield Arc]

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Your ad looks good to me:thumbsup:. If / when you sell it, if you get any complaints about the wire worm tracking. Couple things that can cause this.
First is, wrong stick out length. Some manufactures suggest 3/4", some as much as 1 1/2". You have to read the spec sheet.
Second, dual shield is notorious for picking up moisture:thumbdown:. The manufacture will have criteria for heating the wire. Some can, some can't!

 

[Cord]

Thanks.

Final question! My dealer is trying to talk me out of the NR-212, instead he wants to sell me Select-arc 700GS wire. I noticed that this wire is limited in plate thickness to 3/16" and the dealer didn't know if the wire could be multi-passed. I called Select-Arc and asked the question and they quickly pushed me away from the 700GS (E71T-GS/E71T-14) wire because that was a consumer wire for lower power machines. Instead they recommended their 701 (E71T-11). Of course my dealer doesn't have 701 in stock and he can't price it over the phone. Starting to not be impressed. Anyways, the 701 is not available in a .035, it's .045 or 1/16" and bigger. My machine is already set up for 1/16". Should I get the roller, liner, tips, etc for the .045 or screw it and just go 1/16"? My goal with the flux core is to weld heavier sections outside. I already have several spools of .035 and gas. What I don't have is the flowmeter. This is starting to frustrate me because I wanted to burn this weekend and I'm headed to not being set up.

Tweco vs Bernard? Tweco is less than half the cost of the Bernard.

 

[Shield Arc]

Cord I never ask the guys at the welding supply for advice. I've known one guy there for almost 30-years. Great guy, but doesn't know sheet about welding.
Before the Northridge earthquake in California the manufactures didn't put thickness limits on their wire. I think Hobart says the limit on 21-B is 3/4". I can't tell you how many 1" side bend tests I've passed with 21-B.
You might get away with using a regular Mig gun for shelf shielded wire up to about .045". Any bigger wire and you will need a flux core gun. And don't be surprised if you have trouble with .045" wire if you run real hot.

Last summer I found a roll of NR-211 in my Dad's barn that I took off a job in the early 1980s. Over the years several welding inspectors told be they never seen anybody pass a bend test with NR-211. So I had to give it a try. This wire even had rust on it.

 

[Shield Arc]

Oh, I forgot! I've never used a Bernard gun. I hear they are great guns tho. I've used Tweco guns since the early 1970s, never any trouble out of them.

 

[Cord]

Bought some 212 off line. I'm done messing with this. 1/16" wasn't available, but I bought some .068 which is darn close. I'm guessing the existing 1/16" liner and feed rollers will be Ok, but should I find a .068 tip or just use the 1/16" that I have on hand?

 

[Shield Arc]

Are your drive rolls serrated? I think some of my drive roll are good for something like .010" difference.
Far as the contact tips, I would try them, if the .068" wire won't feed through the 1/16" tips, take a torch tip cleaner and open them up just a few thousands.

 

[Cord]

Yes, the bottom roller is serrated. Both rollers on this feeder are driven.

 

[Shield Arc]

With that big of wire you might need a flux core gun. I've always had good luck with Lincoln's K-126 guns. But you have to make sure you order a gun with the proper back end to fit your wire feeder.

 

[Cord]

I know the prior owner was running 1/16" build up wire through the mig gun. I think what might be controlling the heat is that the gun is a 400a Tregakiss. Sure would like to lose the nozzle though. I'll probably keep it on because it's helping to protect the diffuser from splatter.

I don't know what the back end is. Bernard says that it's supposed to be a Tweco #4, but it doesn't look right. Almost looks like a Miller back end.