Is the L4400 what I need?

[TxIra]

This is a long post, but "how do I know what I think until I hear what I say?"

Here's my thoughts on which tractor, followed by what I want/need/plan to do:

Which Tractor And Tools:

As much drawbar horsepower, traction, and lift as I can afford. Creep gear or hydro to get down to 1 mph (See spader below). Minimum 36" of clear space between tire treads (see permanent beds below). Something to keep me out of the hot sun. Something to keep the killer bees away. A 6' cutter/shredder (to wake up the bees ). A 6' box blade.

So:

Kubota L4400 HST 4 wheel drive with LA703A coupler and L2235-72 quick attach bucket.
Ag Tires.
No weights.
Green goop in the tires (Mesquite).
Toothbar on the bucket.
Mohawk 6' shredder.
Mohawk or other 6' box blade.
Foldable Sunshade

No hydraulic remotes. I can add them later when I need them. Right?

The L4400 gives me most of what I need. Enough horsepower and traction (14.9" rear tires). Probably heavy enough, but light enough with FEL to trailer with my light truck. The tires can be set to just 36" clear space. That might put them too wide for a regular 18' trailer. I don't own a trailer so I can get what I need when I need it. Hydro can go slow enough (see spader below) and would make FEL work and close shredding easier. No adjustable lower links on the 3-point hitch. Too bad. A sunshade would keep the sun off. A cab would keep the killer bees away--oops, no cab.

The larger GL 40's with similar or better pulling power and more lift are out of my price range.

Box Blade and Shredder (both 6'): The dealer sells Mohawk (AG-MEIER.htm) shredders and BBs. The prices are ok.

I'm thinking a light or mid-range shredder will do fine. A TractorByNet search turns up people who are happy with their Mohawk cutters. Sounds like chain guards, not rubber is best. Probably a shear pin.

I might want a different BB, I'm not sure how much steel is in the ones on the dealer lot. Some folks here advise 3/8 " all around. Is 3/8 sides and 1/4 back strong enough?


Insurance through Texas Farm Bureau.


Why I Need That Tractor and Tools:

I've got 27 acres in eastern central Texas (Lee County). About 15 acres of old field root plowed for mesquite about 4 years ago and a 4 year-old 1/2 acre pond that still leaks. Only got enough rain to fill it once -- last spring -- and it's almost dry now. The 15 acres is heavy clay loam that's really sticky when wet and cracks wide and deep when dry. There's about 12 acres of poor soil in brush-- cedar elm, mesquite, locust, prickly pear, lots of things with thorns. The 12 acres of brush includes an old falling down, looted farmstead with barns, sheds, house, buried butane tank, half fallen-in cistern. Old wire, sheet metal, implements with trees growing through them--a real mess. No Africanized bees so far! I plan to leave most of the brush, just slowly get rid of the mesquite and junk/treasures.

The ground is mostly flat to maybe 5% slope.

I'll need to put in just under a mile of gravel road. Just shaping and a thin layer of gravel. When it's wet, bare ground is slick as ice but not boggy.

On about 12 acres of the root plowed part there's a little mesquite regrowth to pull/dig out. I will establish native prairie grasses and forbs -- little & big bluestem, Indian grass, buffalo grass and so on. Then I'll fight mesquite as long as I have the energy.

There's some terraces to rework and make to divert water to the pond. There's a small gully that needs some work. I might try to turn it into a small wet weather pond with FEL & box blade. There's lots more dirt to push around and pick up and dump to capture all the water I can. There are pads for small buldings, concrete blocks to lift up onto scaffolds. There's the farm yard mess.

Cut grass to push into compost piles, compost piles to turn.

For the 12 acres of grasses, I'll need to shred some knee-high to waist-high broom weed, then break-up the over-grazed crust and cut and fill the humps and dips left from the root plowing and old terrace breakdown. The USDA folks say to leave a bit of a rough surface, not a fine seedbed, because I'll broadcast the seeds. This is a one-time deal.

Important Question: For this, I'm thinking I can lower the shanks on the box blade, go 2 or 3 mph and use that to cultivate and smooth the 12 acres of grass-to-be. Two passes minimum at right angles. Deeper shanks the second time. Plus more work at dips and humps. Then broadcast the seed and drag some RR ties or weighted chain link fencing around to smooth it out a little. Is that crazy? No extra equipment to buy. For now.

In the future there will be 12 acres of grass (compost) and some road edges to mow/shred. Almost no brush shredding.

Permanent Beds:
Eventually, maybe, I'll end up with an acre or two of vegetables in 3 foot wide permanent beds. About 1/4 acre for sure. For the permanent beds, for now, I'll be pulling something through them. I'll be looking for something used, that will loosen soil deep without mixing (subsoiler? spring tooth with chisel points?) then something to give me a seedbed. I don't plan to use a PTO tiller.

Spader:
In the future I might get a PTO driven spader for the beds. Wine Business - Grape Growing has an article and links. These things are $$$$ and can't be moved faster than 1 mph. I've talked to people who think they're the best tillage tool to be had. And some who think they are a slow, expensive, high maintenance fad.

Does all this make sense? What am I overlooking? Is anything just plain dumb?

Thanks!

-- Ira

 

[korndodger]

I am currently looking at same things, have you taken a look at the M4800?

 

[TxIra]

I am currently looking at same things, have you taken a look at the M4800?

I looked at it but I've decided I want to go with HST. I've got my eye on a PTO driven spader that requires no more than 1 MPH forward motion. I'd have to get the creep speed kit. With the Skid Loader type coupler the price climbs quickly. Otherwise it looks like a really good machine. Plenty of traction, plenty of lift.

I think I'm gonna sign the papers on the L4400 today. I've been thinking and reading and checking on things for months and it's time to move.

--Ira

 

[texbaylea]

I don't know the L4400 so I can not comment on its suitability for what you want to do.

The one comment I will make is, if your budget will stand it, get the remotes now. They will be substantially cheaper purchased with the tractor than later. The dealer can install them as he is getting the tractor set up. 2 remotes lets you go with a top and tilt for 3pt implements plus other applications. They will make the box blade work you plan very much easier since you can adjust tilt and pitch from your seat rather than having to get off, turn a link, get back on and find you still don't have the right adjustment.

Vernon

 

[TxIra]

I don't know the L4400 so I can not comment on its suitability for what you want to do.

The one comment I will make is, if your budget will stand it, get the remotes now. They will be substantially cheaper purchased with the tractor than later. The dealer can install them as he is getting the tractor set up. 2 remotes lets you go with a top and tilt for 3pt implements plus other applications. They will make the box blade work you plan very much easier since you can adjust tilt and pitch from your seat rather than having to get off, turn a link, get back on and find you still don't have the right adjustment.

Vernon

Vernon - You're right, of course. txdon told me the same thing. I sure like to squeeze the coin. There is a thread Build My Kubota? where PSDStu asks and others talk about the remote options. In the Kubota Corp. web configurator the L4400 options, after selecting Top-N-Tilt (MSRP $779) are:

(2) Standard Valves with Lever Kits $1,146
(1) FD (1)Standard Valves with Lever Kits $1,203
(3) Standard Valves with Lever Kits $1,597
(1) FD (2)Standard Valves with Lever Kits $1,654

So it looks like they are using a little different terminology. You need at least 2 valves & leavers.

Is it better to get 1 FD and 1 standard. Not much more money. My instinct is yes but I don't know a thing about that.

---Ira

 

[korndodger]

If you do go ahead with the L4400 let us know what your impressions of it are. I was about 95% ready to go that way then I made the mistake of looking further and now am really strongly considering the M4800 due to higher weight and wider stance, I have very hilly and rugged terrain to mow and work on. But am very interested in hearing your impressions of the L4400 if you do go ahead with it........

 

[texbaylea]

Vernon - You're right, of course. txdon told me the same thing. I sure like to squeeze the coin. There is a thread Build My Kubota? where PSDStu asks and others talk about the remote options. In the Kubota Corp. web configurator the L4400 options, after selecting Top-N-Tilt (MSRP $779) are:

(2) Standard Valves with Lever Kits $1,146
(1) FD (1)Standard Valves with Lever Kits $1,203
(3) Standard Valves with Lever Kits $1,597
(1) FD (2)Standard Valves with Lever Kits $1,654

So it looks like they are using a little different terminology. You need at least 2 valves & leavers.

Is it better to get 1 FD and 1 standard. Not much more money. My instinct is yes but I don't know a thing about that.

---Ira

Ira - The only situation I have come across where a Float Detent valve would be useful is for a top link to allow a mower to adjust to the terrain. The only problem is if your top link has check valves then no float action is possible. I have 3 remotes on my L3130 but no float capable one. I simply could not foresee the need for one neither did the salesman I had. Although perhaps I should have bought one just in case.

If the situation ever arises I can buy just the valve itself and swap one out.

Vernon

 

[dex3361]

I just purchased the l4400 HST similar to what you are describing. I have since put about 15 hours on it and I am impressed with the machine. I am using a 6 foot light duty rotary cutter, 7 foot box blade, 7 foot slip scraper. I ordered the tractor with 3 sets of rear remotes(able to operate 3 hydraulic cylinders at the same time. The Top and tilt kit uses two of the rear remotes to function.This makes rear adjustments a breeze. I would also order the float detent on one valve, a float detent will function as a normal valve as well as free float in the detent mode. I purchased the LA 703A loader with the heavey duty bucket and cutting edge and quick detach (skid steer type). I mow and operate on rocky and hilly ground. the tractor seems very stable. I got the Ag tires (R1) because of the superior traction and that the rear rims are able to be set further apart than the R4 tires.

 

[txdon]

Was that a L4400 I heard in the distance?

 

[Mikeeemo]

Get the remotes! I have a '05 L4400 DT (gear trans) w/ FEL and wish I had the remotes for the toplink. I have the Tufftrac top to keep the sun off, boy does it help. You will want weights for the front, if you have a heavy IMP. on the 3-point. I have water filled tires. That adds about 800 lbs to the rear & really gets it to pull. I really like like this machine, the price and it's power.

With the quanity of land you mentioned, you may find that you would do better with one of the M models. I find that once in a while that I am at the limits of the L-4400's ability.

So, it is a factor of time & money. If you want to save time, spend more money. Or in my case, I need to budget more time to overcome my lack of money...

Any way you go, I would think you will not be disapointed.