Is my MF 231 running too hot??

[buickanddeere]

Did you test the coolant's corrosion inhibitor strength before draining the coolant?

 

[buickanddeere]

When the sender and gauge were on the bench. Did you connect them up and set the sender in a pot of boiling water? That would be a calibration to indicate a real actual known set point on the white-red.
212F is a nice round number for max safe temp when working hard continuous on a hot day. With a pressurized rad cap and 50/50 coolant.

 

[Travis_R]

When the sender and gauge were on the bench. Did you connect them up and set the sender in a pot of boiling water? That would be a calibration to indicate a real actual known set point on the white-red. 212F is a nice round number for max safe temp when working hard continuous on a hot day. With a pressurized rad cap and 50/50 coolant.

I sure didn't. Didn't even think about it. Fixing to start it up in about 10 minutes and see what she'll do.

 

[murphy1244]

Well?????????????

 

[Travis_R]

Here is the pic of the new gauge with the original temp sending unit.
Engine high idling @ 1800 RPMs... Thermostat housing temp got as high as about 182-183 using infrared thermometer. Wouldn't get any higher.

Look at how the needle isn't too far from the red. BUT... Look at the small dot in the green and the small dot in the red THEN look at the needle between the 2 dots.


The mechanic told me I needed to get a temp sending unit that's calibrated with the new gauge.. But he hasn't seen a picture of the new gauge with the engine up to temperature.

We can see the needle is between the "G" and "P" on the gauge, indicating that's where the 180 temp will be.

I do have an OEM Massey (AGCO part) sending unit on the way.
Would/could this make a change in the position of the needle if I install the new sending unit??

Looking for opinions on what to do next. ((If anything)).

Thanks to all

 

[TomSeller]

I would leave well enough alone. If your engine will not go above 183 deg F your stat is working as it should. Your needle position in the gauge looks good to me. Maybe plug your radiator one more time and see if it goes higher, up towards the red. If so leave it as you have it and keep your extra new parts as spares. Toss the known bad ones.

 

[Travis_R]

I would leave well enough alone. If your engine will not go above 183 deg F your stat is working as it should. Your needle position in the gauge looks good to me. Maybe plug your radiator one more time and see if it goes higher, up towards the red. If so leave it you have it and keep your extra new parts as spares. Toss the known bad ones.

I do agree Tom.

The only thing I'm gonna do now is try the new temp sending unit (if it's the correct one). There's only 2 reasons I'm trying it.

1) Because I'm curious to see if it'll make any difference in the position of the needle.

2) Because the original sending unit has to be removed anyway to change the little copper sealing washer that seals the sending unit to the engine.
The junk aftermarket one messed up the sealing washer (didn't know I wasn't supposed to put it on) and now there's a tiny leak at the sending unit.

There's always that chance the threads could be messed up inside the housing, but I'm about 99% sure it's the washer.

Looks like I'll be putting the hood back on my 1st Love tomorrow.

Luckily I'm not behind with the garden yet, but it's just about time to plant sweet corn with that sweet Massey!

 

[Travis_R]

****EDIT****MASSEY 231 OWNERS****

The "flat head/slotted looking screw" on the back of the new temp gauge is NOT an "adjusting" screw. That whole brass piece pulls right out. It's for the backlight bulb socket to plug into.
The bulb socket that came out the old gauge will fit into the new gauge perfect but you have to open up the metal bulb holder on the back of the gauge. It's already split, u just have to open it up very little using a flat screwdriver.
I also used one of the black pieces off the black plastic pieces off the new gauge to help seal the old bulb socket to the new gauge.

The brass screw on the new gauge is there in case you wanted to cut wires to use the bulb socket on the gauge. The screw acts as a clamp to hold the wires in place.
But DO NOT CUT THE WIRES! Like I said, the bulb socket on the old gauge fits just fine.

I think the reason the screw is on the new gauge is because this gauge fits different models other than the 231 and there must be different wiring configurations to the gauge (assuming).

***This may sound difficult and confusing but it is not. If you're ever in this situation and have the parts in front of you, you'll see exactly what I'm referring to.




I believe it was Winmac who posted about the terminals on the new gauge. He was correct...
"B" is for Battery wire, "T" is for Temp Sending Unit wire, and the terminal with the "lines" engraved beside it is for the Ground wire.

Straight forward, very simple, and I do recommend this aftermarket gauge as far as fitment. But I hope it lasts as long as the original gauge.
****The original gauge DOES NOT have terminal markings on the back of it.

 

[Travis_R]

IM PLEASED TO SAY THE TRACTOR IS FINALLY COMPLETE AND BACK TOGETHER!

Tilled the garden over and the needle on the temp gauge never rose. It stayed between the G and P on the gauge the whole time. There's no doubt it's fixed!

The 'problems' were
1) a faulty radiator cap
2) a faulty temperature gauge

I do not believe the original thermostat was bad, but I don't regret changing it. I think the radiator cap was the main culprit. But the temp. gauge was acting up for sure. If it wasn't completely bad, it was on it's way fast.

I drained the water from the radiator and engine block then added the "Fleet Charge" antifreeze from Tractor Supply. Everything is well with no leaks.

TO ALL OF YOU WHO POSTED WITH YOUR ADVICE, OPINIONS, AND THE HELP YOU GAVE, THANK YOU! THIS IS WHAT TBN IS ALL ABOUT.

Travis R

 

[murphy1244]

How about a pic of your gauge when hot..

 

[Travis_R]

How about a pic of your gauge when hot..

Hot?
If it's idling or under a load with the tiller it's still between the "G" and "P" on the gauge.




This was taken the other night. It's in the same position as when using the tiller today. Never went higher.

 

[murphy1244]

Straight up and down, same as before.

 

[murphy1244]

Ok I let it run for a very long time and then tilled with cardboard in front of the radiator. I here is a pic of where the needle on the gage was. Plus the ifrared red light readings.. The radiator was like 120 at the top and 80 at the bottom. Could keep my hand on the radiator. Was barely warm at the top and the middle and cold at the bottom. The metal part where water goes into the top of the water pump was like 170-180. The part where the muffler attaches to the exhaust elbow was 203 or 205.
Opened the radiator cap and still no swirling!

Is it running too hot? Should I change the thermostat??

The ONLY reason I thought it was running too hot was when I bush hog for a while in tall thick grass, the needle would gradually get to the white part of the gauge. Then I'd get off and clean the radiator out.
Maybe the needle has to be completely pegged out in the white part of the gauge before it starts to run hot?? I don't know.

Just sitting and idling or letting it run about 1300-1500 RPMs with cardboard in front of radiator, the gauge is in the middle of the green.

Any thoughts or recommendations?

View attachment 368171

 

[Travis_R]

Straight up and down, same as before.

Definitely not the same as before. Yes, I agree the needle reads about the same in both gauges WITHOUT the engine being under a load. But where the difference comes in is under engine load, which is why I thought the tractor was running too hot in the first place.
It has never hot on me. But I knew something wasn't right when the needle kept climbing under heavy engine load.
I used the tiller this evening under heavy load for a while. The needle never went up.
With the old radiator cap and temp gauge the needle would have been almost in the red.

I'm pleased knowing the problem is now solved. Wasn't near as bad as I thought it was at first, but I knew something wasn't right. I've had this tractor for almost 7 years and the old gauge never read as high when under a load, as it recently did.

 

[murphy1244]

Ok I let it run for a very long time and then tilled with cardboard in front of the radiator. I here is a pic of where the needle on the gage was.

I call that a good load.

 

[Travis_R]

Ok I let it run for a very long time and then tilled with cardboard in front of the radiator. I here is a pic of where the needle on the gage was. I call that a good load.

At that time I let it high idle for a long time. Then made a couple short runs with the tiller. Nothing like I done today.

I know what my tractor was doing. It's no longer doing that under heavy engine load. The needle never moved.

 

[buickanddeere]

Even at high idle but not working with the rad card boarded. Some diesels won't warm up.
Careful with the cardboard. If the fan is traveling through a narrow air stream which loads and unloads the blades. A fan can fatigue crack and bust into flying pieces.

 

[Travis_R]

Even at high idle but not working with the rad card boarded. Some diesels won't warm up. Careful with the cardboard. If the fan is traveling through a narrow air stream which loads and unloads the blades. A fan can fatigue crack and bust into flying pieces.

Yes the tractor takes a little while to warm up now. Noticeably longer than before. I'm done with the cardboard, no longer have to perform tests.
Good info about the fans! Never hear of that before. Thanks.

 

[sawtooth]

Glad you achieved your resolution. Good luck and enjoy your machine.

Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

 

[Travis_R]

Glad you achieved your resolution. Good luck and enjoy your machine. Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

Thanks for all your help bud. Been tilling all morning under very heavy loads. The needle ain't moved one bit. Stayed between the "G" and "P" the whole time.. Very pleased! Now I know this is how it's supposed to run. No more second guessing.