Installing tooth bar

/ Installing tooth bar #1  

Anonymous Poster

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I just bought a W.R. Long tooth bar for my BX2200. I put the bar on the bucket today and I found that there is about ¼ inch space on each side where the tooth bar bolts to the side of the bucket.

Is that normal or is the tooth bar too short?

If normal, should I use shims to fill in the gaps or should I pull the tooth bar ears against the bucket sides by tightening the bolts? It doesn’t look like the mounting tabs on the tooth bar will bend very easily.

What is the best way to drill ¾ inch hole through the bucket? Twist drill bit? Hole saw?
 
/ Installing tooth bar #2  
JWE,

Some good info has been laid out in <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=implement&Number=145343&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1>this thread</A>. Give it a read.

Kevin
 
/ Installing tooth bar #3  
twist drill should be fine. Pre drill and work up in sizes, will be much easier. If you have to drill the cutting edge, now that is a different story all together.
 
/ Installing tooth bar #4  
<font color=blue>"If normal, should I use shims to fill in the gaps..."</font color=blue>

Yes. Just pick up some stainless steel washers and use these as gap fillers. It is a relatively simple solution to this problem. This is what I have used on my toothbar that has the same similar 1/4" gap on each side.

....Bob
 
/ Installing tooth bar #5  
Extra space is normal. Just pick up some extra washers and fill in the gap. My toothbar only needed one extra washer

To make the holes for the toothbar, just position the bucket at a comfortable working level. Put the washer in between the toothbar and the bucket. Line up by banging with a rubber mallet. When the washer is properly aligned trace the circle with a felt tip pen. Remove toothbar and washer and punch a starting dimple for accuracy Begin drilling with hole saw with integrated ¼“ tip. I used a 3/4" hole saw called the "Aggressor" by BLU-MOL that I picked up at Home Depot. It attaches to a 3/8" hole saw mandrel with intergrated 1/4" drill bit in the center.

The (w)hole job will take less than five minutes!

Enjoy
 
/ Installing tooth bar #6  
Gap on my Long bar is similar. It largely closes up when nuts are torqued. It it was any bigger, I would shim it. I actually like that there is slack - I can loosen the nuts, slide it forward, then flip it into the bucket out of the way.
Mark
 
/ Installing tooth bar
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks everyone for the informative replys. I will go to HD later this week and pickup a hole saw and some stainless washers.

John
 
 

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