Injector Timing Help

[rock2610D]

I have posted a photo of my crank pull timing marks.. My manual has a photo too but photo is black and I cannot see anything.

I need help to determine which mark my 3T80 engine injector pump is supposed to pop the #1 injector at.

Right now injector #1 pops at where the number 1 is stamped on crank pully, I set it there. Starts better in cold weather but I think its only 1 to 4 degrees advanced. My manual is not for a 3T80 its for a engine in a 336 not a 2610. Manual says 21 degrees advanced. Is that what my engine should have and what are the marks in photo. I have labled them what I think they are but if someone could confirm what each mark is it would be a great help.

The manual I got from Hoyles is very good for giving proceedures but photos are black and sometimes like this they are a must. Plus I have issues with knowing exactly what information is correct for my motor.

Please help, I will not bother anyone again if nobody can help me. I will just have to tare off valve cover and undue the #1 intake valve and rotate engine until valve peaks... Then I will know, but its alot of work to do when I should have a manual that tells me.

 

[1danny]

I have posted a photo of my crank pull timing marks.. My manual has a photo too but photo is black and I cannot see anything.

I need help to determine which mark my 3T80 engine injector pump is supposed to pop the #1 injector at.

Right now injector #1 pops at where the number 1 is stamped on crank pully, I set it there. Starts better in cold weather but I think its only 1 to 4 degrees advanced. My manual is not for a 3T80 its for a engine in a 336 not a 2610. Manual says 21 degrees advanced. Is that what my engine should have and what are the marks in photo. I have labled them what I think they are but if someone could confirm what each mark is it would be a great help.

The manual I got from Hoyles is very good for giving proceedures but photos are black and sometimes like this they are a must. Plus I have issues with knowing exactly what information is correct for my motor.

Please help, I will not bother anyone again if nobody can help me. I will just have to tare off valve cover and undue the #1 intake valve and rotate engine until valve peaks... Then I will know, but its alot of work to do when I should have a manual that tells me.

My 336 manuals says 25 degrees BTDC. The only manual that I have for the 3T80 engine says 24-28 degrees BTDC. 0.1mm shims change timing by about 1 degree.

Danny

 

[rock2610D]

Thanks, Danny!! That helps alot. At least now I know what the timing should be.

What manual do you have that shows info on the 3T80 engine?

Does the manual you have say what the different marks are for the crank pully????

The main probem I have with my manual is tha it shows a timing mark and in order for me to hit the "TIMIMING MARK" I had to install a 1/16 inch gasket plus all the shims that were under pump. That would be the equivilat of 16 each .1 mm shims!!!!!!

It is obvious at this point that the manual Hoyles sent me for the 336 has some major deviations, from my 2610. This is why I am dependant on this forum now to give me some guidance.

Now I am even wondering if my valve clearances are correct. The 336 manual states .006 inches or .15mm. Does anyone know if that is correct for the 3T80 engine??

Danny, you are correct my 336 manual does say 25 DEGREES BTDC.

 

[rock2610D]

OK, based on the info provided by Danny and my measurment of the crank pully diameter (4.5) inches. I was able to calculate where my timing mark should be given that the mark in the photo I have labled as TDC is in fact TDC.

24 degrees equal approx .93 inches straight line distance from TDC mark.

28 degrees equal approx 1.08 inches straight line distance from TDC mark.

Believe it or not the 28 degree mark lands right on the unknown mark!!! I have to assume this is the timing mark.

Now here is the hard part. While checking timing I removed all shims behind pump and re-installed. Injector #1 popped about 8 degrees after (assumed) timing mark, and 20 or so degrees before TDC mark.

I have to assume some sort of mechanical problem or my methods of checking timing are wrong. For there is no way to hit (assumed) timing mark with out grinding flange of the pump.

My method was to unhook the injector #1 (rear most) fuel line at injector. I hooked a small plastic hose to injector line and then inserted a even smaller plastic tube in plastic hose. Filled line and tube almost full with diesel fuel and rotated engine CCW by hand untill I was sure all air was out of fuel line, hose, and tube. When fuel in tube began to rise I slowed rotation until fuel level did not rise anymore and that is where I stopped the engine rotation. I assume this is the spot where my timing mark should line up with the pointer???

Can someone tell me if my methods are wrong??

If not is it possible to have some sort of wear between pump and cam that will cause pump to get out of time, to the point where surface grinding may be required???

If my method is good this could be the issue I have been chasing for the last few months. IE hard to start in cold weather. Timing would definately cause hard starting issues.

 

[rock2610D]

Manual from Hoyles is worthless for engine and hydraulic data. If I would have known when I ordered it that it was not for a 2610 but a 336 and none of the engine, hydraulic, or drivetrain data was even close to being what I have I would have saved my $80.

I had to order a manual from John Deere for a 750 and 850 to get engine and hydraulic data. Maybe it will tell me what my timing, wear tolerances, and compression should be. It was even cheaper at only $75 and it will have photos I can see.

Thank all of you guys for any input and now that I have this data I am not opposed to sharing info here on this forum..

In my opinion the john deere 750 or 850 service manual would be a much better manual for manual sellers to offer for a YM 2610D. It is a much closer match than a 336 which has power steering, a 3T89 engine instead of manual steering and a 3T80 engine.

 

[HoyeTractor]

Rock,

I just needed to comment on a couple of your points.

If I would have known when I ordered it that it was not for a 2610 but a 336

You ordered directly from our website which states clearly that most gray market models do not have an english service manual and you will be sent the manual for the closest US model Yanmar.

I would have saved my $80

The manual you got from us was $65. $10 LESS than the Deere manual.

Aaron
Parts@HoyeTractor.com
(940)592-0181

 

[rock2610D]

I do know that when I ordered the manual I clicked on 2610D not 336d and I do not believe that a 336 is anywhere near close to a 2610D other than horsepower ratings. $65 plus shipping and handling.

ANY U.S. model that had no powersteering would have been a better selection for "CLOSE." I understand what Aaron is saying and I do agree. That maybe I should have read the website closer. I am not saying Hoyles is responsable for anything. I just need a manual that I can use. The one Hoyles sent is 60% unusable for me. Not to mention the black photos that make the other 40% barely usable.

Also, most people know that John Deere used yanmar to make alot of tractors and I personally think the closest US model for a 2610D would have been a JD 750 or JD850.

Hoyles provides a great service and I do rely on them for alot of my parts. I just wish the manual for my tractor was more accepatble.

Thanks.