Info on 1430

/ Info on 1430
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Well, I wouldn't be lifting really heavy stuff. I would use them for light tasks like moving the garbage cans and pallets, stuff like that. For really heavy stuff, I would use the bucket. I do plan to have someone weld some hooks on one of the buckets too.
I also plan on buying one of the 3-point woodsplitters from Northern Tools and weld the Quick attach plate on.

Thanks
P.S. I may be buying soon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I have a few potential buyers for my Craftsman.
 
/ Info on 1430 #22  
lifting really heavy stuff?

Just so you are clear - the 1430 is a T12 machine - as in 1200 lbs. This is the same as a Kubota BX23.

Those who like to really lift get a T24, 2400#, machine (1460). It can lift more if it has to. This is the class that can handle pallets of sod and pavers.
 
/ Info on 1430 #23  
<font color="blue"> Well, I wouldn't be lifting really heavy stuff. I would use them for light tasks like... </font>

Oh Highridge, Highridge, Highridge...

I thought similar things before I purchased, too. My forks were just going to be for lifting stuff. I bent them once when I wedged them crooked into an old brush hog that I was attempting to muscle around the back yard. The rear of the tractor came off the ground as the tip of the fork bent down. Sledge hammer took care of that one.

Second time I was prying concrete post anchors out of hard ground on a playground. I like to point the forks almost straight down while applying down pressure to the FEL arms. As I push down and the front wheels come off the ground I then wiggle the joystick left and right to vibrate the forks into the ground about 2 feet. Then as I rock the tractor back and forth with the treadle and wiggle the joystick all over the place, one of three things will happen. The huge chunk of concrete will slowly emerge from the soil. The rear of the tractor will come off the ground, OR... the forks will bend many inches out of line, usually bending just one of them. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

The forks have many uses besides lifting stuff. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I'd do like JJ said and check out fork lift shops for some adjustable forks of heavier design and have a quick hitch plate welded onto them. Be sure to do the slight anlge on the hitch so you get the proper travel as has been discussed in another thread.
 
/ Info on 1430
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Maybe it would be more worthwhile to buy the attachment plate and find a small, sturdy set of forks to weld the plate to.
I won't be carrying pallets with sod or pavers.
If I do get the PT, I'm definetly getting the mini-hoe. The list of uses I have for it just keeps adding up!
 
/ Info on 1430 #25  
According to Kubota a BX23 w/210 loader will lift 460# to full height at the pivot point.. The three point hitch may be able to lift 1200#.

sg
 
/ Info on 1430 #26  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( According to Kubota a BX23 w/210 loader will lift 460# to full height at the pivot point.. )</font>

Yep, my mistake.
The 1430 will out lift the Kubota BX and B series.
You would need the LA513 on a L3130 to match it.

Personally, I am considering the 1460. More versatility than the Kubotas.
 
/ Info on 1430 #27  
Mossroad is right! The forks are great for removing fence posts and I particularly like them for removing shubbery. Adjust the forks close together, insert them beneath the root ball, tilt the forks up, move them left-to-right to cut the remaining roots and tap root and pop the shrub out of the ground.

They are also usefule for removing asphalt and concrete slabs. They are great for pulling up roots when clearing. In a pinch, I have used them to lift the rear of my car to put jack stands under it. I still have an old lawn tractor that I have to work on frequently. It is great for lifting the tractor up to a comfortable height to work underneath it. If you do this, make sure that you add support underneath the forks. The hydraulics will slowly creep down with time.

There is also a clamp-on trailor hitch available that will clamp directly to the forks. This allows you to push a trailor and place it where you want it.

After felling a tree, I use the forks to lift the trunk up so that I can safely remove branches and cut the trunk.

As with any piece of equipment, you have to think about how you are going to use and be aware of potential things that can happen. For example, you don't want to use a chain saw too close to the forks.
 
/ Info on 1430
  • Thread Starter
#28  
How are these machines for traction?
I know you get better traction with bar tires and I'm getting turfs, but what happens if you really get yourself in a mess?
Also, if one wheel starts spinning, does all the power go to that wheel? That's what I dislike about my Craftsman.
 
/ Info on 1430 #29  
With turfs on my 1845, on level deep mud - my wife's garden that I was tilling in early spring - I got so deep that it was literally floating on the belly pan. I wiggled my way out. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
To get much more traction, you'll need a crawler tracked skid steer. Of course, I'll bet I can get one of those stuck, too.
At least two wheels pull, and generally all do, even when they are spinning.
 
/ Info on 1430 #30  
Our turf tires provide excellent traction on grass and dirt and in the woods on the forest floor. In snow on pavement, pushing our snow plow, they work great. However, on side slopes in snow, the machine will crab downslope very easily. Never had it in deep mud. Overall, I am very satisfied with the turfs. If you are disappointed with them afer a year or so, I have seen bar tread for the PT425 at TSC for about $60.00 a poke.
 
/ Info on 1430 #31  
I spent nearly $500 on 4 bar tires and rims to match. Used them for about 8 weeks or so and put the turfs back on. I really don’t know if I will ever put the bars back on. I guess one big advantage for the bars would be on going out the side of a hill. They will hold better in that situation where the turfs might slide.
 
/ Info on 1430 #32  
I have bar tires on mine, but they are a little hard on the yard . Now that I have some new grass growing I kind of wish I had the turf treads. Because of the design of the tractor you'll be amazed at how often you can get out of being stuck. I think that in most cases the turf treads may be desirable.
 
/ Info on 1430
  • Thread Starter
#33  
Has anyone ever tried R4 Inustrial Tires like the ones on the bigger Pt's? Those are a good compromise. Probably expensive though.
 
/ Info on 1430 #34  
I got my self into a situation with my 1445 where one wheel was off the ground, and no other wheel motor was turning. I had to jack up the frame and shove some logs under the wheel, and I backed right out.

I am thinking that the fluid goes to the path of least resistance first. It would be nice to apply brakes to the spinning tire to let pressure build up in the system for the other wheels, then one would hardly ever get stuck.
 
/ Info on 1430 #35  
On my 422, I have actually attached the aerator, pushed it down and driven around with the front wheels off of the ground. The front wheels spun, but there was plenty of traction from the rear wheels. If you have both wheels on one side off of the ground then you will have not traction. Of course this is a 422, your machine may be different. The wheels on one side are in series with the output fluid from one wheel being the input to the other. If both wheels on one side are off the ground, then all of the fluid flows through that side and there is little pressure on the other side and very little torque.

Bob Rip
 
/ Info on 1430 #36  
I have the turf tires on my 422 and have had little traction problems. Yesterday I used my 422 to take my dual axle trailer with my 7 1/2 foot heavy duty disk loaded on it up to my shed. The snow had melted and the road was muddy. The wheels on the left side were both spinning but the right side had traction and kept me going. The road is anout 12 degree slope and the weight of the trailer and disk totaled about 2000 lbs. I was pretty impressed that my pt 422 would pull that much weight under those conditions.
 
/ Info on 1430
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Thanks for the replies guys,
Haven't heard much about the 2 cyl. diesel engine though. I've never owned a diesel before. I've heard good and bad about them. My neighbor has a diesel Kubota BX and it's pretty nice since I guess Kubota makes their own engines.

Thanks
 
/ Info on 1430 #38  
<font color="red"> Kubota makes their own engines. </font>

I've had a Kubota 7100 and a Jacobsen mower with Kubota. They're great engines. The 3 cylinder Deutz on the PT, however is easier starting, self priming, so no injector bleeding, and much better in cold weather. It is louder than the Kubota, and I think the 2 cyl is a bit louder still, but I wear hearing protection on any machine these days anyway. (If I'd done that when I was younger, I wouldn't have my usual excuse not to have done what my wife asked me to. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)
 
/ Info on 1430 #39  
<font color="red"> (If I'd done that when I was younger, I wouldn't have my usual excuse not to have done what my wife asked me to. </font>

I saw a study where it showed that as we get older we loose the ability to hear at the frequency that most women talked. So you can blame part of it on your age. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Must be some kind of survival characteristic. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Info on 1430
  • Thread Starter
#40  
O.K, here's a question for you guys.
What do you do about leaves?
I know there isn't a bagger or anything. Do you shred them with the mower? My yard gets a lot of leaves from the neighboring yards.
 

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