Importing and modifying a new mini excavator from China

[Pitrack]

There will be two lines for each function. Supply and return. So four lines to swap likely.

Thanks I’ll give it a shot tomorrow!

 

[dfkrug]

I’m not an expert with these machines obviously, but I’m curious is there a way to basically make the joystick controls flip flop. Make the left joystick operate what currently the right joystick does and vise versa. I have a larger excavator that is opposite the controls of the em15 and it’s causing me some issues ha.

See my post #100.

Congrats on the EM15.

You have another option since you have servo (pilot) controls. You can do the swap on the main valve, or you can swap hoses in the arm rests. You need to open up the machine anyway to tighten bolts, adjust the main relief valve, sleeve hoses that rub, and see what you got.

In particular, check for hyd return filter(s) under the floor panel.

 

[Pitrack]

There will be two lines for each function. Supply and return. So four lines to swap likely.

Thanks I’ll give it a shot tomorrow!

 

[Pitrack]

See my post #100.

Congrats on the EM15.

You have another option since you have servo (pilot) controls. You can do the swap on the main valve, or you can swap hoses in the arm rests. You need to open up the machine anyway to tighten bolts, adjust the main relief valve, sleeve hoses that rub, and see what you got.

In particular, check for hyd return filter(s) under the floor panel.

Thanks! Care to share how to adjust the main relief valve?

 

[dfkrug]

Thanks! Care to share how to adjust the main relief valve?

Last summer, a friend also bought an EM15. There are at least 4 other EM15 buyers who have posted on just this thread.

Go to Post #540 to see where I opened it up and adjusted the RV, which was way too low. Lots of pix.

 

[Pitrack]

Last summer, a friend also bought an EM15. There are at least 4 other EM15 buyers who have posted on just this thread.

Got to Post #540 to see where I opened it up and adjusted the RV, which was way too low. Lots of pix.

I appreciate all your replies.

Is there any chance you know what fitting this is and where I can get one? It’s off a Lanty tilt bucket it came with two fittings and one is missing. I’m striking out at all local hydraulic outfits. It screws into the cylinder on the bucket and then the other end screws into the hose. You can see the one fitting I have screwed into the end of the hose in the picture.

 

[dfkrug]

I appreciate all your replies.

Is there any chance you know what fitting this is and where I can get one? It’s off a Lanty tilt bucket it came with two fittings and one is missing. I’m striking out at all local hydraulic outfits. It screws into the cylinder on the bucket and then the other end screws into the hose. You can see the one fitting I have screwed into the end of the hose in the picture.

Can't tell from a photo. You need to look at a thread ID table and use calipers. I use bolts of known thread pitch to ID the threads.

DiscountHydraulicHose has free thread guides. 2 pages excerpted here. My guess is a 9001 metric to metric, or a 9004 BSPP to metric.

 

[Pitrack]

Can't tell from a photo. You need to look at a thread ID table and use calipers. I use bolts of known thread pitch to ID the threads.

DiscountHydraulicHose has free thread guides. 2 pages excerpted here. My guess is a 9001 metric to metric, or a 9004 BSPP to metric.

Appreciate that. I didn’t know if there was a general thread size these machines used. I believe it’s the same thread as the two hydraulic blocks that are on the arms of the excavators are since that’s where the other end of the hose screws onto.

 

[jaylast]

Congrats on the Digger I'm loving mine.
And so happy I lucked into it @ auction VS import. Just received first import of parts etc and WOW what a pain even DDP. . .

BTW- anyone close to PA / east coast can PM me about local attachments. I just got a few extra specifically from/for em15 like hydro thumb, and standard buckets rakes couplers etc. Too busy yet to actively market them.

- - - - Messing with either of the RVs on an em 15 - prob should figure out a gauge first, but if you haven't traced the hoses yet to figure how to flip controls I'd say there's more to learn before trying to get a gauge on there. (Like yes the thread type of the fittings.)

My em 15 used 16mm for that port block thing, which I deleted. Most of the rest I've found on it are 14mm.

The fittings/thread should all be DIN 2353 style/type.

Link to an appropriate sized adapter I used to convert an attachment to the aux hose end.

5000L-10-08 | DIN 2353 L Union (M16x1.5 x M14x1.5 Threads)

Check out the deal on 5000L-10-08 | DIN 2353 L Union (M16x1.5 x M14x1.5 Threads) at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

Keep in mind there are many 'DIN' types, the closest one to 2353 is different only in the interior chamfer angle. And some places call them by their tube size. IE 14x1.5 mm din 2353 can also be called 10mm tube din 2353

 

[dfkrug]

My em 15 used 16mm for that port block thing, which I deleted. Most of the rest I've found on it are 14mm.

Do you mean the block at the end of the AUX hoses on the dipper? Or on the left end of the valve stack?

I have had machines with 2 different hose sizes on the AUX circuit.

Did you get a shipment of parts and attachments via LCL to a local container port?

 

[dfkrug]

Looks like Cam at TheGarageConnection on Utube is selling a kit to help protect the wheel motors. I suggested he may want to add plates to also protect the hoses and fittings.

 

[dfkrug]

I want to talk about the engine throttle control and choke control, and how to improve them. I have just re-routed my choke control cable, which I show here soon.

Most of the one ton-ish minis come with this engine speed control lever, a relic of the 1-cylinder diesel engines that normally come with these machines. It has a long stroke, and was used to regulate the fuel flow, and turn off the engine mechanically.

On my XN08, the speed control was mounted on the right side of the house, beside the seat (photo). I adapted it to the DuroMax (LCT) engine I bought and installed.

On the Ouke machines, the lever is installed on the same plate that the seat is mounted to. When you open the seat to access the fuel tank, the throttle cable binds cuz it has to go up with the seat. Photo is the bottom side of that lever. Ugh.

 

[dfkrug]

Here is the Ouke machine showing inside the house. The throttle cable needs more slack, even after I re-routed it above the choke cable.

The choke cable is a solid wire that goes thru a drilled hole in the choke lever on the carb, and exits the back panel of the house. On my machine, I did it a similar way, but my rear panel is one piece, so the choke needs to be disconnected when I remove the panel.

Both of these rear panel choke controls work OK. I just moved mine to the front house panel.

 

[dfkrug]

There are 2 problems with the throttle control that immediately becomes apparent: it is a cable, so it pulls well, but does not push well. That means good control depends on a good spring return to idle.

The second bad thing is that if you use one or the other of the 2 default cable connections on the throttle lever, the cable only moves an inch or so between idle and WOT.

This photo is a new Briggs throttle, which is very similar to other 420 thumper engines, whether Honda or Chonda. A and B are the 2 cable clamps that come from the factory. C is the main pivot shaft.

The Ouke machines attached the cable at B. I used A for my Duromax. If you drill a hole at X, and relocate the clamp from B to X, the lever has a longer stroke will work much better. The clamp at B should be used to install a 2nd throttle return spring, which I have done on the Duromax.

Also the main pivot, C, has a friction clamp that should be disabled as shown. It should also be disassembled and greased.

I saw a Utube vid of a guy who relocated his throttle cable like this and he enjoys much more control over engine speed. What first was 4 clicks of the control lever is now a dozen or more.

Finally, to allow the engine to idle at lower RPM, I removed my throttle lever and ground a bit of metal away where the lever hits the WOT stop (photo).

 

[dfkrug]

...and finally the choke control:

I purchased a new generic choke control "cable" of the solid wire type seen on mowers ($10). This type is very superior for push-pull control. These newer thumpers are set up very lean and they are very sensitive to having a fully closed choke in order to start.

Briggs supplies a choke cable housing clamp bracket that goes on the end of the carb studs. I don't like it since it does not align well with the choke lever on the carb. So I made one (photo), which works well.

My new choke control is on the front housing panel, which is more convenient, and not on a horizontal surface. Many Chinese minis put the choke knob on the top of the house, which will eventually fail due to the entry of water.

Suggestion to TheGarageConnection: put together a complete replacement throttle kit that makes these improvements.

 

[Advil]

Interesting. The very first thing I did with our Typhon copycat when we got it to was relocate the choke from the front housing panel back up to horizontal next to the ignition switch.

We have the full glass cab on ours and because of the way the cab fits, there is NO way to remove the floor access panel under your feet without first removing the front panel under the seat... which the choke was attached to. Having the choke on it just made it far too difficult to remove that panel first.

The change had to be made so we could leave the cab on for all basic maintenance and only lift it off for serious repairs. The cab also makes removing the rear engine cover and rear side panels impossible while the cab is on. So the oval exhaust grill on the back and the interior foot and under seat panels are all you can take off easily. It's enough for easy oil changes.

However I can see the advantage to having the choke there if you don't have a cab.

 

[dfkrug]

Interesting. The very first thing I did with our Typhon copycat when we got it to was relocate the choke from the front housing panel back up to horizontal next to the ignition switch.

Cab models, totally different, as you state. Also, diesels have no choke (and no throttle, technically).

 

[jaylast]

Yessir, baltimore cfs.

Waiting on a reply now- I paid full payment to the company for DDP with option to ship from warehouse but still had to pay 350 additional to that final warehouse/cfs.

A tip to anyone- use a US based importer! Just thankful that was the worst thing but pisses ya off no accountability. Will post about the stuff later. Pretty pleased though overall and I like the quick couple.

Yessir I deleted the aux junction block at end of dipper. If often using a second aux attachment I'll add a proper 2way block. So far no need tho.

Modifying is almost not optional when owning one of these. I also did some tweaking with the choke and throttle- likely common even on newer ones. Hazard a guess not all that uncommon on a diesel either.

Btw iirc this one measures 29" between the frame at rear motors. 42" blade in front. I never popped a track but it seemed to wanna bind easy, and visually the motors looked kicked out.
Taking note of the gear and track interface at back of gear VS top; dead giveaway they both had bent out - the gear and track didn't line up properly on top anymore.

I got two 'rakes' for myself- wanna mod one as a thumb option so it's even more like a demo grapple..

 

[Advil]

Just finished installing two 7" radiator fans, one on each side of the engine. Those puppies are loud and move some air. $14 each. Also fixed some pure Chinesium wiring. Before anyone freaks out about general quality: the wiring for everything not cab related was just fine, but the cab and LED upgrades must have been put on in literally 5 minutes. I saw a suspicious piece of amalgamating tape where one power wire split to 3 going to the cab fan, interior and exterior lights. When I cut the tape off I saw what I expected... they stripped back one wire in the middle, wrapped the other two around it and taped it up to keep a connection. It was SO absurd and stereotypical China I was laughing while unwrapping the wires. Needless to say that's been fixed with some proper connectors. Last upgrade is the hydraulic return filter... I think we have all the parts now except the filter housing which was slow to ship from Zoro. Should be here tomorrow. That's the last mod I care about doing after this it's time to just use the heck out of it.

Well, I'll probably put in a short tube to extend the exhaust port fully out of the engine compartment, but that barely qualifies as a mod.

 

[jaylast]

I didn’t know if there was a general thread size these machines used

My exp is DIN 2353 type for em 15
Size is often 14mm (16mm for aux)
more info in my post just after yours 1148

Pit, in case you are wanting a hydro thum lmk. I got one in specifically for em 15 - they are different from the others for mounting.
I already bought one on ebay earlier for like 400 and had to modifiy all the mounts so I don't need it. Somewhere around 250 to 3 plus ship is what I'm thinking.

I also have a set of basics like coupler, rake, ripper, 20cm dig, and one extra large 38" flat grading bucket.
I prefer local to central PA but could ship single or a pallet. Anyone interested just PM.