Box Scraper Implement Use - Rakes / Box Blades, etc.

[smalltime]

I've only owned a tractor for a little over a year and really don't know which implements are best or how they are used.

Scene:
Tractor: 1964 Massey-Ferguson MF35 Diesel Deluxe
About 5 acres of pasture
5' King Kuttter finish mower
5' blade

A contractor just finished the new septic drain field and I need to regrade and seed.

Additional things I would like to do:
- Regrade the gravel driveway occasionally. (3/10 mile) (The blade seems to do an adequate job if the driveway is moist from rain and I go really slow.)
- Smooth out small culverts in the pasture. (it's a ROUGH ride in certain spots when I mow.) I assume this will require tearing up what's there and reseeding.

Box blade or landscape rake? I really don't know what to use and why. Brand-wise, my local choices look like Woods, then King Kutter.

I was also given a cross drawbar but I don't know what it's good for.

Looks also like a stationary drawbar can be bolted to two studs underneath in the rear. Good idea or not?

 

[cruzer]

from what i have read sounds like a box blade w/gauge wheels would be your best bet.

 

[Soundguy]

Forget the gauge wheels... a good box blade is a great companion to a grader blade when you have tasks that need cut/fill, move dirt, rip sod, and grade roads/driveways.

soundguy

 

[jbrumberg]

smalltime:

Welcome to TBN ! I agree with Soundguy as to the gauge wheels on a BB. I have a good landscape rake which I use with my BB. I will probably get a RB when I can "swing it" through SWMBO . Jay

 

[Solo]

I use a landscape rake for driveway maintenance. Snow removal and general grooming of stone. My boxblade I really haven't used. The rear blade I use for cleaning ditches and burning brush piles.

Jay what is SWMBO?

Solo

 

[smalltime]

It's the wife.
"She Who Must Be Obeyed".
Getting approval for the purchase. I have been incredibly very fortunate in this regard.

 

[smalltime]

I really appreciate the replies. Okay, so far it looks like the box blade is the better choice. Although it will certainly eliminate the small row of gravel that accumulates at the edge of the driveway when I use the rear blade, I wonder..... Doesn't the BB really rip things up (part of its purpose) and although it leaves a smooth surface behind, how soft is it after I go over it with the BB?

Also from he original post:
I was also given a cross drawbar but I don't know what it's good for.

Looks also like a stationary drawbar can be bolted to two studs underneath in the rear. Good idea or not?

 

[jbrumberg]

smalltime:

It takes some practice using a box blade well, but dependeing on how you adjust your top link and scarifier length you can run a heavy box blade at a pretty shallow depth. My gravel driveway is topped with crusher run gravel. It is a little soft after I smooth it with the box blade, but the next rain seems to pack it down really well.

If the cross drawbar is a drawbar that is attached to the two lower lift arms I would be very careful what I pulled from it due to its higher center of gravity relative to the tractor. For pulling heavy objects you are much safer using a stationary drawbar that is at the lowest part of the tractor. Jay

 

[smalltime]

Yes, the cross drawbar would go between the two lower lift arms. Good point about keeping the pulling low - Don't want to go "tractor tipping". What's the purpose of one though? I'm missing something... Too bad there's not a "Implements for Dummies" book.

I've got two large studs sticking out below the rear diff. I'm assuming those would be used for the stationary drawbar.

I've seen some lower drawbars that look like they are allowed some side-to-side sway. What's that about?

 

[AndyMA]

Forget the gauge wheels... a good box blade is a great companion to a grader blade when you have tasks that need cut/fill, move dirt, rip sod, and grade roads/driveways.

soundguy

I agree with SoundGuy, with a boxblade there is no need for training wheels. I would also say that since you already have a grader blade, a york type rake would be the better choice. I would go wider, 6 or 7 feet.

Andy

 

[AndyMA]

from what i have read sounds like a box blade w/gauge wheels would be your best bet.

Do box blades with training wheels exist?

Andy

 

[AndyMA]

If you are leaving ridges on the edges of your drive when you use the rear blade the rake would be perfect to remove them and leave a finished appearance. A boxblade will just about never leave a finshed appearance. One way to overcome this to drag brush over the area as a last step.

Andy

 

[Soundguy]

Would also like to point out to the original poster, that you don't always leave your scarfire teeth pointed down.. if you don't nee dem, raise em, or flip em over for storage.

soundguy

 

[smalltime]

"Scarifier". Hmm. New word to me. Must mean the tangs that do the bustin' up. And they're adjustable? Cool. Sorry, this is all new to me. A year and a half ago, I didn't even know the difference between a finish mower and a bush hog...

 

[sunspot]

I've seen some lower drawbars that look like they are allowed some side-to-side sway. What's that about?

They are allowed to sway. Usually there are limiter chains so they don't sway into the wheels.

I've got two large studs sticking out below the rear diff. I'm assuming those would be used for the stationary drawbar

Those are for use of stabilizer bars. To limit the amount of sway.

Confused?

You would want to limit sway on a brush cutter but not limit sway on a plow.

On to the box blade. Yes, the scarifiers are adjustable.

 

[smalltime]

Okay...now I am confused. The studs that I'm talking about are two studs sticking downward (pointed to the ground) underneath the rear diff. I think you're talking about the lower link arms? And yes, those have "check chains" to keep 'em from swaying too far. I also have the stabilizer bars to keep the finish mower from swaying too much.

My MIL has my digital camera or I'd post a picture what I'm looking at.

Thanks all for taking the time. I appreciate the opportunity to learn.

 

[smalltime]

And... Limit sway on a brush cutter. Makes sense. But not on a plow? Why? Allow the plow to go around a rock rather than stick fast? What about a disc harrow?

Interesting stuff, this.

 

[sunspot]

The first picture is the drawbar with a clevis. That is what to use for pulling stuff with a chain. The second is a stabilizer bar hook up. Yes, I know I don't have the pin in place.
I hope this helps. I'm somewhat of a new guy myself so I'll let someone else answer when to use a stabilizer. I'll be watching for the answer.

 

[Leon Wittner]

If you are leaving ridges on the edges of your drive when you use the rear blade the rake would be perfect to remove them and leave a finished appearance. A boxblade will just about never leave a finshed appearance. One way to overcome this to drag brush over the area as a last step.

Andy

I used my Box Blade and Rock Rake for the first time this last year and it is correct that the BB does not leave a real smooth finish but when followed by the rock (landscape) rake the surface turns out smoother than a road grader on my roads. Most of the time if the surface it not super hard just the rake does a great job of grading. No one should be without both in my opinion.

I sure have learned a lot from folks on this site since a year ago I did not even know what a BB was. Now I own one.

 

[GCLnIndiana]

The last time my MIL borrowed my camera, I ended having to buy a new one!