IF You are a Tractor Operator in your ROOKIE Season.

AxleHub · Nov 23, 2015

Recently I saw a thread where someone was saying to use starting fluid to help get a tractor engine operating in the winter.

Just so there is no confusion . . starting fluid is a volatile spray. Used in a gas engine it has a contained space and a spark plug that does not retain heat.

But used in a diesel . . my understanding is you NEVER use starting fluid in a diesel. Glowplugs create considerable heat and can cause starting fluid to pre detonate.

Stay safe out there

jenkinsph · Nov 23, 2015

AxleHub said:
Recently I saw a thread where someone was saying to use starting fluid to help get a tractor engine operating in the winter.

Just so there is no confusion . . starting fluid is a volatile spray. Used in a gas engine it has a contained space and a spark plug that does not retain heat.

But used in a diesel . . my understanding is you NEVER use starting fluid in a diesel. Glowplugs create considerable heat and can cause starting fluid to pre detonate.

Stay safe out there

Starting fluid (ether) is used in diesels engines not gas engines. But starting fluid should not be used in engines with glow plugs and heated air intakes. Lots of the older tractors had starting fluid injection systems built in such as my Deere 820 (1973). Carb cleaner which is mostly lacquer thinner is commonly used in gas engines.

dieselcrawler · Nov 23, 2015

Better yet, fix the glow plug system if there is one, and use a block heater when it's cold... a warm engine starts easier, and last longer due to reduced wear and tear... warm oil flows and lubricates better, and the warmer block and cylinder walls will help the combustion process. I avoid ether/starting fluid with my diesels at all cost... I will use wd40 if I must on my old k30, but the powerstrokes fire up fine with good glow plugs and block heaters as needed.

jix · Nov 23, 2015

So, what about using gas line antifreeze (methyl alcohol) if the diesel Fuel has gelled in the lines?..Is that a no-no also?

dieselcrawler · Nov 23, 2015

They make anti-gel productso for regular use in every tank full (power service brand, white bottle) and after its already gelled (power service brand 'diesel 911' red bottle )

hillsandtrees · Nov 23, 2015

If you don't use your tractor much, try to avoid having a tank of 'summer diesel' sitting there in the winter. Depending on where you are in the country, they cut over from summer to winter mix at different dates. 'Winter diesel' contains a percentage of diesel #1 and may be processed to remove the paraffins that cause gelling. It has a lower clouding point than the summer stuff. If you are stuck with summer diesel in a vehicle, you can drain it into a canister, re-fill with winter diesel and use up what you drained next spring.

AxleHub · Nov 23, 2015

dieselcrawler said:
They make anti-gel productso for regular use in every tank full (power service brand, white bottle) and after its already gelled (power service brand 'diesel 911' red bottle )

Yes, a bottle that treats 250 gallons costs only 9 to 13 dollars depending on sale prices. If they have to . . you can even add it right in the tank. And you can buy it almost anywhere. Its hard to imagine with today's convenience . . that anyone would gel up anymore. Its do easy to avoid it.

I also use premium highway diesel . . Just like using a premium gas in a high performance gas engine . . Gives more power . . Even better mileage, and has an additive package that keeps the engine components cleaner and less smoke. Sll for only 6 cents a gsllon more.

Mike Wiles · Nov 24, 2015

I do a video series about issues like this. Please check this out :https://youtu.be/qH-ia3YAdKI.

jix · Nov 24, 2015

So, what about good old methyl hydrate? Good, or bad in my tier 4?

rmk700 · Nov 24, 2015

I've been running farm equipment and heavy equipment for 40 plus years and all this safety BS devises are out of control anymore. All these devises do is just create complacency. 40 years ago none of this safety stuff was around and I lived through it with zero accidents. Is what makes me super safe is NOT relying on the safety crap, NOT relying on the manufactures, nor the government mandates to keep me safe, it was knowing that I'm 100% responsible for my safety and knowing that... makes me take extreme caution at ALL times.

We are all prone to err, so all the safety BS isn't terrible but we really shouldn't rely on any of it. Do buckle up though.