Idle speed on 1025R

[RalphVa]

Has anyone lowered their idle speed on their 1023 or 1025 or 1026? I don't like the 1,575 rpm idle. My 4010 originally came with the idle set at about 1,500. I changed it pretty quickly to the 1,000 indicated in the owner's manual. The owner's manual for the 1025R says 1,575. Think it's just for emissions, for some reason.

Ralph

 

[PsRumors]

I don't know that I would go lower. It could be strictly for emissions or it could be to keep the cylinders from wet stacking.

 

[RalphVa]

Could be that. I know better than to leave it idling slowly for a long period though. If it's only that, I'll lower it. Cannot stand the clatter all the time. Even my generator, that runs about the same speed, is far quieter, but it's inside a sound deadened enclosure.

Ralph

 

[PsRumors]

I'll be curious to hear the results. I'd like mine to idle lower.

 

[RalphVa]

I checked into lowering the idle speed today. Easy to reset the throttle cable stop, but there's a stop in the injection pump that won't let the idle speed go below 1,575. Don't know whether it's possible to relocate the arm on the injection pump speed control or not. One would have to remove the big nut holding the speed control arm and relocate it. Don't know whether that's possible.

Ralph

 

[MacTractor]

I know the manual for my 2320 clearly states that altering the low idle below the current set point will possibly void your warranty. This is the purpose for the Locknut on the injector pump.

For me, it is not worth altering for this reason.

If you think of it, there must be a good reason for it to be set at this point.

Cheers,

 

[RalphVa]

Think they've had people trying to run their small tractors with them at 1,000 rpm idle and probably ruined the bearings. I'd rather be able to run mine down like I could on the 4010 if I don't want to shut it off every time I stop and get off. I do that now, because I don't like to hear it clattering away. This one is noisier without the full side shields, too.

My diesel generator with its sound enclosure and running at essentially the same speed is very quiet.

Ralph

 

[kuboman]

Think they've had people trying to run their small tractors with them at 1,000 rpm idle and probably ruined the bearings. I'd rather be able to run mine down like I could on the 4010 if I don't want to shut it off every time I stop and get off. I do that now, because I don't like to hear it clattering away. This one is noisier without the full side shields, too.

My diesel generator with its sound enclosure and running at essentially the same speed is very quiet.

Ralph

What bearings are you referring to and why would lowering the idle speed ruin them?
I think it has more to do with usability. Too slow an idle and you run onto a stalling problem.

 

[RalphVa]

When you lug an engine, you ask it to do more work than there is oil supply to keep the bearings lubed. This can happen if people do much with the engine at idle, and idle speed is too low.

They may have set the idle speed higher to avoid cold start problems, too. I knew enough to give my 4010 about 1/2 throttle to start it in cold weather.

Suspect real reason for higher idle is emissions related though.

Ralph

 

[kuboman]

When you lug an engine, you ask it to do more work than there is oil supply to keep the bearings lubed. This can happen if people do much with the engine at idle, and idle speed is too low.

They may have set the idle speed higher to avoid cold start problems, too. I knew enough to give my 4010 about 1/2 throttle to start it in cold weather.

Suspect real reason for higher idle is emissions related though.

Ralph

You could be right but 1575 rpm seems excessive. Thats almost half if not close to 2/3 of rated rpm. I always lower the idles but of course never attempt to work it at an idle. Mostly just hate the noise of a racing engine when I'm not actually working it.

 

[Fixin4fun]

Here's my 2 cents: The emissions are typically tied to the WOT speed, not the low idle. That's why it (high idle setting) has a permanent tag to identify if someone tampers with it. Low idle is determined off of noise and performance as engine is tied to the hydraulic and hydrostat pumps and can be adjusted by the low idle screw and lock nut. The lower the engine speed, the lower hydraulic flow, so steering and hydraulic performance will be lower. As long as you are aware of the steering and hydraulic issues, I say adjust to your liking. Yanmar has been building those small diesels for quite some time and I would find it hard to believe they'd build one that would self destruct due to lack of oil.

 

[RalphVa]

Not clear to me how to adjust the idle speed; I've adjusted the throttle cable (easy) with no change in idle speed, as the wire is fully extended to where there's no lever action left. The arm that the wire from the throttle cable connects to has a big nut securing it, with a spring behind the nut. You likely cannot move the arm to another position on the shaft. Wondering if anyone has the maintenance CD on the 1025 that might show this. I'll bet it isn't even shown on the CD. I bought a maintenance CD for the 4010. Not sure I'll bother with one on this model, as I'd never used the CD on the 4010. Gave it to a friend who has a 4010.

Ralph

 

[Fixin4fun]

The screw that the bracket stops against (for low idle) on the pump can be adjusted. There is a locknut to loosen and the head of the screwis hidden behind the fuel hose,

 

[RalphVa]

Wow! Thanks a bunch. May be easy to do. I only found the "B" nuts and adjusted the cable. That took it down from about 1,600 to near 1,575. Hopefully, maybe I can get it even lower. The 1,575 is essentially 1/2 PTO speed.

Ralph

 

[RalphVa]

Wonder if anyone has a parts description on the idle speed bolt (through lock nut D in above photo).

I loosened it today and got the idle down to 1,100, but I could not get the lock nut to go up against the body to lock the bolt in place. Had to screw the little bolt back in a bit with idle speed now at 1,500 (instead of the 1,600 before). The lock nut just did not want to go there.

Anyone else tries this, here is what you do: slightly loosen the lock nut, loosen the idle bolt about 1/3 turn (wrench down on it), turn lock nut about same in opposite direction (wrench up on it), keep this up until the idle bolt comes out about 1/8". That's about how much is needed to get idle down to 1,100.

I unscrewed the lock nut quite a ways and somehow could not get it back against the injector body to lock the bolt in place. It felt almost as though there's a strip area in the threads.

Think one can completely remove the idle bolt to look at it and just screw it back in? May have to check it out. Seems weird.

Ralph