Idle hands.........

   / Idle hands......... #21  
Just set the hitch dowm on a jack stand under the hitch, unhook, proceed to load the trailer, back under the hitch again, raise 3pth, picking up hitch from stand, and away we go!!! I have a drawbar setup with a 2 5/16 ball on it and the hitch is a 2 5/16" hitch-- the size for trailer houses -- rigged on my 3pth. it works slick.. Just always remember the 'flip factor' when using 3 point this way. I wouldn't recommend it for tractors w/o FEL. Hydraman
 
   / Idle hands......... #22  
Nice setup. Got me to thinking that a similar setup could be rigged to pull behind a truck.
 
   / Idle hands......... #23  
Yeah; I have pulled this outfit behind a one ton, but had to be real careful because of no trlr brakes. And that ain't legal on the highways here, anyway! But if one has brakes on it, and hydraulics on the towing vehicle it would be a slick rig.Hydraman
 
   / Idle hands.........
  • Thread Starter
#24  
If you're handy and lucky you can find complete tail gate lifts off of trucks for a song. I have picked them up for free and paid as much as a hundred and fifty dollars for others. That gives you a twelve volt hydraulic pump, cylinder, and a control lever. Those componets along with some careful thought will give you a trailer that will dump at a very reasonable cost.

Of course you can buy a ready to weld up kit with the same componets for about eight hundred dollars from Pierce Wrecker Sales. You will have new items and a bigger cylinder. But you will be short about six hundred and fifty dollars too. /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
 
   / Idle hands......... #25  
<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

But again, for the guy who needs, wants, or has a small trailer that would be umpteen times more handy if it would dump this is a viable option. For everyone else there's other options, right?

<hr></blockquote>


The gardeners at the local dump taught me a useful trick. Tie both ends of a strong rope to your trailer hitch. Run it through the truck and over the hood with the ropes a few ft apart (I use a tarp now but the same principle applies). Load up the truck, toss the rope on top of the pile and tarp. Untarp at dump and hold the hoop of rope up in the air. Some guy in a tractor bigger than my house comes over and you hook the rope onto the hook welded to his bucket. He backs up and everything comes out of the truck. With the tarp between the rope and the contents I don't even have to sweep. Takes him 30 seconds to unload the entire truck. I now spend more time in line to get in than I do unloading. I don't know if your processing place offers "pull-offs" but if they do, they make unloading at the dump REAL EASY. The same process works just as well for a trailer as for a truck except you tie the rope to the back bumper of your trailer..

You could do the same for unloading at your place with your own tractor, or, I suppose, you could tie the rope to a nearby tree and drive away. The rope would pull the contents out of the truck / trailor. Best to tie it high on the tree. Not too useful for sand.

A dump bed truck/trailer is a very useful tool indeed and necessary for items that can't be pulled off (sand, rocks, gravel), but for most items people haul to the dump, the pull off technique is a lot cheaper.
 
   / Idle hands......... #26  
Does anyone know where the post is on the tubing bender that Wroughtn showed us? Robert
 
   / Idle hands.........
  • Thread Starter
#27  
I can't remember the thread either. Here's the ticket, take it.

You can wrap the tubing around anything curved, no sharp corners. The secret is it can't slip. Square tubing buckles when it's allowed to slip.

You can put a piece of four inch pipe on a piece of angle iron. Put the angle with pipe in a vice. Tack your tubing to the angle and wrap it around the pipe. It'll work like a hose.

Of course with that principle you can do it all within reason. I personally find square tubing neater than just about anything to play with, within reason./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
 
   / Idle hands......... #28  
Okay - I'm a Mechanical Engineer. The idea has merit. Not necessarily exactly as originally submitted, but using motion / traction to lift the bed certainly has merit. The thought has crossed my mind before.

Here's my thinking.
We build a scissor lift type device under the dump body. Nothing fancy - just 2 pieces of steel and a couple/ three pivots.
We pivot the dump box close to the back of the trailer. The further forward the better, but we want some height here otherwise we're just as well off to unhook from the truck and tilt the whole trailer up.
Now we mount a pulley at the front of the trailer, string some aircraft cable from the scissor over the pulley and down under, and we use the motion of the wheels to wind up the cable. I think a cable drum on the axle is safer than the tire chains and would give more force (in exchange for backing up further) but any way of winding up the cable would work.

Using an axle drum would even allow you to raise the dump box by moving forward or backwards by wrapping the cable over or under the drum. I suppose you could do the same with tire chains by having a second pulley at the back of the trailer- use both for backwards, just the front for forwards.

Why the scissor lift? It gives you more force upwards for the same cable tension than pulling on the rear of the box. This allows you to pivot closer to the back of the box and get a steeper angle. You could just mount a tall post to the front of the trailer with a pulley on the top, but that's not anywhere near as clean a design.

Considerations:
Need to ensure the force calculations are done - don't want to overstress the cable and have it snap - that would be ugly although it would likely only happen when you're in the vehicle so you're relatively safe.(Having a hydraulic hose burst is just as bad and you're standing right next to it!)
Sizing the cable drum needs to take into account expected traction at the wheel. Otherwise if the wheel slips, the whole thing will come crashing down as well.
Scissor lifts take the most force at first. This is a good thing, as if the load is too heavy, the cable would snap or the wheel would slip before the load is raised. But need to design it such that the initial angle, expected load and expected cable force are matched to make it work.
Finally (that I've thought of) as the load slides off, the force on the cable will drop, but so will the friction on the tire. Need to ensure the cable force drops faster. I suppose the weight transfer to the rear would negate this effect to some degree.

As someone else mentioned, the whole thing might be accomplished just as easily with a worm-drive trailer winch instead of crawling under the trailer to hook up the cable to a drum, but then you have to crank instead of drive :(

wroughtn_harv - I'd be happy to work through calculations with you if you decide to proceed.
 
   / Idle hands......... #29  
When I was demolishing a driveway and sidewalks, I hauled them to the dump in my HD 3/4 ton Ford P/U (multiple trips). Not having a dump bed or even a trailer, I layed several pieces of scrap pipe sideways across the bed and layed scrap plywood on that. I filled it up pretty good with only a dozen or so pieces of debris in the space where the bed is wider than the inside of the wheel wells. On arriving at the dump with the first load, the cashier/scales operator did a double take at the scales read out and told me I was over 10,000 lbs and asked if I had customized the truck since the suspension and tires weren't distressed. Answered no and no then drove to indicated area of landfill. I gently backed up to the indicated area and put on my gloves and tossed out all the debris wider than the ID of the wheel wells. I pulled forward a hundred feet and removed the tailgate. Got in and backed up as hard as the non-turbo diesel(1984) would go till I was a few feet from the designated dumping spot and slammed on the brakes. The whole load shot out intact, rolling easily on the scrap pipes which fell short of the load and were not buried. As I had "borrowed" the used plywood during a previous dumping exercise I didn't have to recover it but did to use it the next day. Second trip was similar but having a calibration for how high to pile it for 10,000 GVW, I weighed in a bit over 12,000 and repeated the flawless performance. Again I was lucky and the cops weren't at the dump checking weights.

Maybe this won't work for all conceivable loads, trucks, and or drivers but it has a fair chance for many items in many instances and configurations.

I've been thinking of building a box, smaller than my the trailer (18 ft +) to carry on my flatbed utility trailer (12,000 lb GVW) that would dump to the side so the weight could be carried over the two axles. Was thinking somewhat along the lines of the junkmeister supreme, Harv, who seems to have many good ideas, and trying a used 12 volt hydraulic setup from a liftgate or xxx. Haven't decided how to "not have a problem" with the fender. First thought is to sort of "wrap" the bottom of the dump bed/box around the shape of the tandem fender. I would only lose a little capacity but right at the end with the load mostly dumped, I would have to raise the box WAY UP to dump the material that would be caught by the irregularity. Alternatively I could make a wedge shape that would reduce capacity a bit but let the material out better toward the end of a dump. I have also considered scisors, jackscrews, and lots of things up to but not including skyhooks. Would probably use the traditional bottom opening sidegate(?)

The box would be hinged on the side and I am considering using the HD stake pockets as the attachment method. As there are symetrically located pockets on both sides I could put the box on to dump left or dump to the right.

An alternative idea that I had was that since the floor of the dump box has to be strong enough to hold the load when elevated, why not carry it elevated at the height of the fenders and eliminate the problem of dumping over them. This would raise the CG a foot but shouldn't make the loaded unit too unstable. I could put braces/spacers under the box to help carry the dynamic forces of bouncing on the road and not bending the bottom of the dump box.

Someone will probably ask how I will get that big heavy box on and off since it could be more than I can pick up with my pallet forks, considering the box's dimensions and leverage. I have a jib crane with traveling car that has an electric winch on it in my shop. It has two ton capacity at maximum reach and I wouldn't need to even go halfway out. This makes loading and unloading things a little easier when heavy stuff gets involved. This leaves me with the box in the shop in the way so a dolly might be in order. Alternatively, I could jack it up and drive out from under it leaving it sit outside on a couple stands till needed. Hmmm, note to self. Make stands of unequal height and put a drain plug in the lowest corner cause water would be a tad heavy.

I would appreciate any constructive criticism or warnings of unanticipated dangers or ...

Patrick
 
   / Idle hands......... #30  
Wrought'n Harv - take a look at this link. I'm sure you can identify with it.

www.kwikdump.com

BigEddy
 
 
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