Ideas for fastening strobe light to tractor roof

[ismilelots]

I like that idea, but the roof structure on the inside of the cab has a ceiling. I’d have to pull the ceiling down.

I don't know about yours, but my LS has nuts around the bottom lip of the top (with plastic covers) that can be removed and the top opens like a car hood. It gives access to all the stuff between the ceiling and roof.

 

[ddbackhoe]

How about to take off air from thoses bigs tires
Or demolish this concrete cenent floor to lower it
Or change the door and frame and lift it 2 more feet , ´cause in sime years forwered you eill but a new tractor that will be 12’ feet high
Kidding!!! But a piece of machinery 10’ high. Heum! Indeed, your building does not match tour needs! I had the same problem but I have been able to raise the top structure of the door .All I needed was a couple of inches. Luckey I was. Good luck.

Id adjust the opener to get a little more clearance then any objects will hit the header instead of the door. Doors are darn expensive.

 

[kneedeep]

Lower the air pressure enough to get in the garage. I run 12# in rears of my cab tractor to increase traction thus reducing wheel slip under a load.I keep the fronts around 40-45# for the FEL support.
Traction in snow may increase?

 

[Hay Dude]

Id adjust the opener to get a little more clearance then any objects will hit the header instead of the door. Doors are darn expensive.

The tractor clears the doors now, dd.
I removed the old beacon. New lower profile goes on today.
No need to do anything to door thankfully.

 

[bartjoebob]

My Challenger has a typical plastic roof shell. Previous owner installed a home-brewed light bar bracket. Looks/works fine except one thing: It makes the tractor about 10’-2” high. I am storing it in a barn with a 10’ door opening for snowplowing season. Figures….

View attachment 779248


I removed the strobe light from the light bar and leave light bar in place the tractor is about 9’-10” high, so now it fits, but no strobe for snowplowing. If I stuck strobe directly to roof plastic, it would be about 9’11” high-it’ll just squeak through.

I’d like to fasten the strobe directly to the roof plastic to lower my overall height & retain use of strobe. The strobe, normally bolted, has 2 rubber mounting discs about 3” diameter. I presume they are shock absorbing and also leave an opening for the power wire.

View attachment 779249

I can’t use bolts or drill the roof.

Would large pieces of velcro stuck to the bottom of rubber discs and on top of roof plastic work? I don’t know if velcro adhesive sticks to rubber? It sticks to plastic very well. The power wire could act as a tether if it’s ripped off by a branch.

Or, what would be alternative suggestions would be better to stick directly to roof plastic? Gotta hold pretty good.

View attachment 779247

Amber LED light strips, arrange them however you want on the sides of the roof. Maybe see about an app or some kind of controller to give you a strobe effect. I see people using them all the time in the subcompact forums after they snap their ROPS lights off. If it were me I'd epoxy them onto a plastic mount plate then install the plate onto the roof edge, seal it up. That way if the LED strip goes out your not having to scrape if off your roof.

 

[db13]

My Challenger has a typical plastic roof shell. Previous owner installed a home-brewed light bar bracket. Looks/works fine except one thing: It makes the tractor about 10’-2” high. I am storing it in a barn with a 10’ door opening for snowplowing season. Figures….

View attachment 779248


I removed the strobe light from the light bar and leave light bar in place the tractor is about 9’-10” high, so now it fits, but no strobe for snowplowing. If I stuck strobe directly to roof plastic, it would be about 9’11” high-it’ll just squeak through.

I’d like to fasten the strobe directly to the roof plastic to lower my overall height & retain use of strobe. The strobe, normally bolted, has 2 rubber mounting discs about 3” diameter. I presume they are shock absorbing and also leave an opening for the power wire.

View attachment 779249

I can’t use bolts or drill the roof.

Would large pieces of velcro stuck to the bottom of rubber discs and on top of roof plastic work? I don’t know if velcro adhesive sticks to rubber? It sticks to plastic very well. The power wire could act as a tether if it’s ripped off by a branch.

Or, what would be alternative suggestions would be better to stick directly to roof plastic? Gotta hold pretty good. Automotive

My Challenger has a typical plastic roof shell. Previous owner installed a home-brewed light bar bracket. Looks/works fine except one thing: It makes the tractor about 10’-2” high. I am storing it in a barn with a 10’ door opening for snowplowing season. Figures….

View attachment 779248


I removed the strobe light from the light bar and leave light bar in place the tractor is about 9’-10” high, so now it fits, but no strobe for snowplowing. If I stuck strobe directly to roof plastic, it would be about 9’11” high-it’ll just squeak through.

I’d like to fasten the strobe directly to the roof plastic to lower my overall height & retain use of strobe. The strobe, normally bolted, has 2 rubber mounting discs about 3” diameter. I presume they are shock absorbing and also leave an opening for the power wire.

View attachment 779249

I can’t use bolts or drill the roof.

Would large pieces of velcro stuck to the bottom of rubber discs and on top of roof plastic work? I don’t know if velcro adhesive sticks to rubber? It sticks to plastic very well. The power wire could act as a tether if it’s ripped off by a branch.

Or, what would be alternative suggestions would be better to stick directly to roof plastic? Gotta hold pretty good.

View attachment 779247

Automotive double side emblem tape...

 

[Todd727]

Strobe on my Maxxum mounts to a bracket on the cab supports. It would be trivial to fashion a bracket for your strobe.

Here is a picture from CaseIH that shows the strobe mounted and you can make out the bracket. I'm surprised the Challenger doesn't already have some threaded holes for the same time mount.

 

[Hay Dude]

Strobe on my Maxxum mounts to a bracket on the cab supports. It would be trivial to fashion a bracket for your strobe.

Here is a picture from CaseIH that shows the strobe mounted and you can make out the bracket. I'm surprised the Challenger doesn't already have some threaded holes for the same time mount.

View attachment 781025

Im aware of those mounts. My other 3 tractors have them.
For some reason, the Challengers do not come prewired for them.
They have 7” flat metal bases on the roof and one wire (that I have found) in one of the metal bases.

 

[Hay Dude]

Automotive double side emblem tape...

The bottom of the strobe is “ribbed” steel, not flat.

 

[PJC3006]

My Challenger has a typical plastic roof shell. Previous owner installed a home-brewed light bar bracket. Looks/works fine except one thing: It makes the tractor about 10’-2” high. I am storing it in a barn with a 10’ door opening for snowplowing season. Figures….

View attachment 779248


I removed the strobe light from the light bar and leave light bar in place the tractor is about 9’-10” high, so now it fits, but no strobe for snowplowing. If I stuck strobe directly to roof plastic, it would be about 9’11” high-it’ll just squeak through.

I’d like to fasten the strobe directly to the roof plastic to lower my overall height & retain use of strobe. The strobe, normally bolted, has 2 rubber mounting discs about 3” diameter. I presume they are shock absorbing and also leave an opening for the power wire.

View attachment 779249

I can’t use bolts or drill the roof.

Would large pieces of velcro stuck to the bottom of rubber discs and on top of roof plastic work? I don’t know if velcro adhesive sticks to rubber? It sticks to plastic very well. The power wire could act as a tether if it’s ripped off by a branch.

Or, what would be alternative suggestions would be better to stick directly to roof plastic? Gotta hold pretty good.

View attachment 779247