I think my tail wheel is too big

[aczlan]

When the hydraulics are lowered the mower is as you say but the top link is flexible via an articulating mout on the mower so as the mower stays flat no matter if the tractor is undulating

Looking at that mower, you need a shorter toplink (based on what our mower does) if you want to be able to use it as a mounted bushhog. When you lift the 3 point on a mounted bushhog, the whole mower should go up. The toplink mount should allow the distance between the toplink mount on the tractor and the one on the mower to shorten as needed, but not lengthen.
As it sits, you are using it as a semi-mount bushhog which has the issues that you outlined.

Aaron Z

 

[Sackett2]

agreed with the bent rod; it looks just like mine did after I backed the wheel into a tree, it would hit the deck too. I put it on a press and was able to correct the bend. all is good now

 

[woodlandfarms]

I think the set-up looks different based on the rotation of the wheel. Picture the wheel being turned one revolution.

Turned one revolution would still have it looking identical:laughing:

 

[Sutol]

Looking at that mower, you need a shorter toplink (based on what our mower does) if you want to be able to use it as a mounted bushhog. When you lift the 3 point on a mounted bushhog, the whole mower should go up. The toplink mount should allow the distance between the toplink mount on the tractor and the one on the mower to shorten as needed, but not lengthen.
As it sits, you are using it as a semi-mount bushhog which has the issues that you outlined.

Aaron Z

Have to look at that, top link as short as it will adjust

 

[Depmandog]

Have to look at that, top link as short as it will adjust

Get yourself 3-4' of 1/4" chain and two clevises such as the one pictured. Now you have an adjustable flexing top link -- cheap!

 

[SPYDERLK]

Turned one revolution would still have it looking identical:laughing:

Yes. Identically inconsistent. Looks like two versions of tailwheel fabrication in that collection of bushogs.
larry

 

[RaydaKub]

Turned one revolution would still have it looking identical:laughing:

But that's the problem. It won't turn a full revolution as is. :laughing:

 

[Gary Fowler]

The top shaft IS BENT. Those of you claiming not are missing the connection in all the photos. Regardless of the fab of the tail wheel, whether the forks are slanted by tapering them at the top or making them square and welding the shaft in on the slant, the shaft itself is always straight from the point of conection to the forks to the top. The OP's shaft has a 45 degree bend in the shaft on top of the weld which anyone familiar with fabrication or design would know that is not the way things are built.
It looks to me like someone has modified it in a previous life to start with, that smaller shaft should not be there in the first place. NO reason to make a 1.5" shaft thru the bushing hub then reduce it to 1" (or whatever the actual size is). I looks to me like someone stuck a piece of pipe or solid rod stock up inside the original vertical shaft, welded it in place in a modification. The OP has somehow put too much stress on the wheel and bent the 1" piece and possibly the 1.5" piece from the way it is cocked a bit at the bottom near the washer.
He looks to have enough shaft to cut the whole thing off above the bent spot and reweld it directly to the tailwheel fork assembly while keeping the forks slanted at approximately 30-45 degrees just like all in the photos of ALL bushhogs tail wheels.

 

[SPYDERLK]

The top shaft IS BENT. Those of you claiming not are missing the connection in all the photos. Regardless of the fab of the tail wheel, whether the forks are slanted by tapering them at the top or making them square and welding the shaft in on the slant, the shaft itself is always straight from the point of conection to the forks to the top. The OP's shaft has a 45 degree bend in the shaft on top of the weld which anyone familiar with fabrication or design would know that is not the way things are built.
It looks to me like someone has modified it in a previous life to start with, that smaller shaft should not be there in the first place. NO reason to make a 1.5" shaft thru the bushing hub then reduce it to 1" (or whatever the actual size is). I looks to me like someone stuck a piece of pipe or solid rod stock up inside the original vertical shaft, welded it in place in a modification. The OP has somehow put too much stress on the wheel and bent the 1" piece and possibly the 1.5" piece from the way it is cocked a bit at the bottom near the washer.
He looks to have enough shaft to cut the whole thing off above the bent spot and reweld it directly to the tailwheel fork assembly while keeping the forks slanted at approximately 30-45 degrees just like all in the photos of ALL bushhogs tail wheels.

Take a harder look. Those forks use a cheaper fab method relying on some bend in the neck above the top of the [straight] forks to give the caster angle. he just needs to unbend the neck a little. A couple weld beads on the back side while stressing it in that direction oughta do it ... and leave it stronger.
larry

Pivot section of the rod is bent slightly. Doesnt take much.
larry

Gotta get the right perspective.
larry

 

[Short Game]

Obviously not the original wheel assembly. The pivot shaft does not properly fit the tube (look closely at the top of the tube). Way too much slop. This will ensure future failures, if the wear isn't a problem already. Yes, it is bent too. The OP will have to decide how much it's worth to fix it properly or run it into the ground and say, "good enough."