Freds, You're looking for answers without defining the question so you're getting a mix of pertinent & non-pertinent but all valid advice. The guy that just pumped your tank should have told you that a tank should be filled with water immediately after pumping to keep solids in the tank. You paid a lot of money for a very temporary solution, which you both may have known.
Leach fields get waterlogged from running toilets or just overuse as well as get saturated/plugged with solids/grease/soap. Tank inlets/outlets get plugged with lots of things & scale/grease/soap will build up in pipe until there's no hole to flow thru. After hearing much "I told you it needed to be pumped more often" from my SWMBO I once climbed down into my just pumped & rinsed septic tank only to retrieve a cleaning cloth from the tank inlet elbow which she immediately recognized and for a moment was unnaturally silent. ( Yes - I climbed into my own septic tank! How much would any of you charge to climb into someone else's ?? I ain't got that kind of money. )
First of all you need to determine exactly what has failed. Dig up the outlet & pipe away from the tank. You should find a small tank called a distribution box. This is where the lateral perforated pipes that disburse the effluent start. Take off the cover & see if there's water flowing into it. If not the trouble is back toward or at the tank. Clean this pipe as necessary. If the D box full of water the receiving soil is waterlogged and/or plugged with solids. Households with smaller septic tanks that flow a lot of hot water, showers, dishwashers, etc, have more suspended solids leaving the tank.
If the leaching soil is plugged it must be removed & replaced or the leach field relocated. This may be as simple as exposing the pipe & removing 12" under & each side & replacing with good clean sand which can be done with a shovel.
Or as a semi-permanent solution you can put in a holding tank at the septic tank outlet with a float activated effluent pump (usually 2 pumps with different start levels are installed to allow the spare to be activated should one fail at an inopportune time) pumping to your other system. Pump thru 1 1/2" or 2" pvc without a check-valve to allow drain-back which precludes freezing. This is done all the time in raised bed leach fields. The holding tank needs to be sized to accept the run-back without restarting a pump, i.e. 20 gallons out - 2 gallons back - 18 gallons until next pump start. Also keep in mind how big a batch your other system can receive.
My advice is do a little digging before you spend any more money. On the bright side, maybe you could call MikeRowe & tell him you've got a "Dirty Job" that needs help. Take pics & keep us posted. MikeD74T