I need some advice....

/ I need some advice.... #1  

caddison

Gold Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2001
Messages
451
Location
NW Missouri
Tractor
John Deere 1025r
I picked up this diverter valve and I need a little advice on the best possible way to mount this on my DX33 to run the angling cylinders on my plow and operate the new 4-in-one bucket. I am wondering if I should mount the valve at the point where the curl lines attach to the hoses and then add elbows to attach the hoses to run to the front or would it be possible to split the lines and install the valve in the middle towards the front of the loader. I have attached pictures for reference. I'd appreciate any impute.
 

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/ I need some advice.... #2  
I see you got one of those new valves Surplus Center had on their web site. Any brand name on it?

Personally I'd keep it closer to the operator's platform and out of harm's way.
 
/ I need some advice....
  • Thread Starter
#3  
The valve is a Bosch Rexroth. I actually picked up two of these on E-bay for $35.00 ea.
 
/ I need some advice....
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I thought it was. I got one for the front and one to possibly add to the rear remote for T-N-T. Just have to figure out how to mount them.
 
/ I need some advice.... #6  
How many ports are on that valve? It does not look like it has 6 (2 IN and 4 OUT) which is needed to make this work properly...

I mounted mine inside the loader mast...well protected and out of the way.
 

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/ I need some advice....
  • Thread Starter
#7  
KennyD,

It has 6 ports. I was thinking the solid side mounted to the loader arm and splitting the connection where the hoses connect to the steel lines for the curl function and then adding two elbows for the addition of the two hoses for the plow angle and the cylinder on the 4-in-one or a grapple.
 
/ I need some advice.... #10  
Cliff, if you mount that valve up front on your crossmember, you can probably put quick-connects on it and hook your 4-in-1 hoses or angling cylinder hoses directly to the valve, eliminating the need to mount a bracket for the QC adapters. Your hose and fitting requirements would probably also be minimum.

If you mount the diverter on the side of your loader towers, you can put quick connects there and hoses to the front with more quick connects mounted on a bracket at your crosstube. That way you can have the normal and diverted hydraulics available even when you remove the loader. This will require more fittings and hoses, but is a bit more flexible.

I don't know what you would want to use the hydraulics for if your loader is removed, so I think I'd look at putting the diverter valve up front and make it as efficient an install as possible. That will mean only your electrical connection will need to be longer and have a disconnect at the loader towers.
 
/ I need some advice....
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Jinman,

I like the idea of the valve and adapters on the cross member other than the issues encountered splitting the steel lines and using compression fittings to attach short hoses to them to run to the valve. I was wondering if it is possible to install T fittings where the hoses attach to the steel lines?
 
/ I need some advice.... #12  
Like others, mine is also on the inside of the loader arms 'for protection'.

Although I couldn't quite round up enough cajones to drill holes in the uprights.
 
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/ I need some advice.... #13  
Thanks Matt, I had not noticed that! That is a good price also-looks nice and compact.

I was thinking the same thing about it being compact; but I figured that by the time one puts elbows on both outlet sides, it may not be as compact as first thought. Of course it all depends on where and how one plans to locate the valve and lines to it.

I just got an email from Surplus Center that my 9-5117-A valve has shipped. That's going to be used for the PB/4th & 5th SCV modification I sent you the schematic on. Now if only it will warm up enough for my cold sensitive hands to work in the garage.

Jinman,

I like the idea of the valve and adapters on the cross member other than the issues encountered splitting the steel lines and using compression fittings to attach short hoses to them to run to the valve. I was wondering if it is possible to install T fittings where the hoses attach to the steel lines?

Please bear with me as I don't know your level of hydraulics expertise; but are you thinking of using the same compression fittings you find at the hardware store? If so, don't as they are not rated for high pressure service.

My only concern about mounting the valve up front is damage from dirt, rocks and other debris that may spill back over the bucket.
 
/ I need some advice.... #14  
Jinman,

I like the idea of the valve and adapters on the cross member other than the issues encountered splitting the steel lines and using compression fittings to attach short hoses to them to run to the valve. I was wondering if it is possible to install T fittings where the hoses attach to the steel lines?

"T's" are not going to do you any good. You must disconnect the lines completely and run them to the diverter. From the diverter, you'll run back to the original fittings and another set to your remote feature for the 4n1 or angle function. On the diverter it's "everything in" and "selected function out x 2"

I suggest you draw out everything on the computer or a rough sketch on paper. Then, start counting fittings and hoses required. When you have everything sketched out, you be able to make yourself a parts list to order all your fittings. With the sketch and list, you'll find plenty of help here.

My personal experience is that steel lines are very easy to work with, but you have to be sure of clearances because you can't move them like flexible hoses. However, I think you'll have plenty of room for 90 degree "L's" so you can route the lines to and from the diverter. Do make sure you use L's where needed to keep lines flat and away from possible snags.
 
/ I need some advice....
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Jinman,

Good Info...Thanks!
 
/ I need some advice.... #16  
Clif, I'm adding a grapple to my FEL and in need of a solenoid valve. Is the one you got from Ebay the one from "JohnnyBaja", comes in a blue plastic bag, and Code L7323C116B10B010 for $35 (there's another one slightly different for $39 ?) Have you found out anything about it indicating it wouldn't be suitable for your application or my application diverting two FEL curl lines to two grapple lines of a bidirectional grapple cylinder ? Like weird threads or ports, its used and worn, too much current required for the solenoid, not handling enough pressure, whatever... The price is really super, as the SurplusCenter one is $150.

Bob
 

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