I need help chaining down the tractor

[Bob_Skurka]

Being conscious of your load, being somewhat oversafe and you're fine.

I am constantly amazed with the illegal, fool-hardy, and dangerous advice given in the towing threads. Seems like so many people just want to do it as cheaply as possible and see what they can get-away with.

 

[laurencen]

Hi Bob, where did you purchase the hook in the first picture, sure would be handier than what Im using now

Laurence

 

[john_bud]

When we're talking about a $25,000 tractor on a $4000 trailer being towed with a $45,000 truck, what's another $100 for GOOD chain? Or another $50 for ratchet binders instead of lever types?
QUOTE]


I suppose that they are just penurious....

jb

 

[jayhaitch]

I'm looking at my GC2310 (only 2650 lbs) and can't see where I'd be able to wrap a chain around the fat 4wd axles without really torquing on the tires to attach the chain to the D-rings on my trailer.

Has anyone used axle straps, then chain from the D-ring to the axle strap?

 

[firemanpat2910]

I suppose that they are just penurious....

jb[/QUOTE]

I had to look that one up also. John bud did you get a new dictionary for christmas? LOL

 

[john_bud]

I suppose that they are just penurious....

jb

I had to look that one up also. John bud did you get a new dictionary for christmas? LOL[/QUOTE]


No, but I did get a new Zarf.... quite nice in the morning...
My grandmother always said that people judge your intelligence by the vocabulary you use. It was true then and is still true today.


Speaking of towing -

The worst job of load attachment I have ever seen was a person taking two cars to the junk yard for scrap metal (I assume). They were on a 16 or 18' trailer that looked like a 7k max unit, so it was overloaded by a bunch. But that's not the bad part. The two (yes count them 2) cars were one on TOP of the other. The bottom car was not strapped at all. The top car had one nylon strap across the hood and one across the trunk. You could see it teeter tottering as the trailer hit bumps as it was being pulled by the clapped out rust bucket of a 1/2ton truck on the highway at 75 mph. Thankfully, I was going the other direction....


Jay - a buddy has an enclosed trailer and he uses over the axle nylon straps at each corner for cars and tractor (JD790) and uses the 8 D-rings in the floor.

 

[schiker]

clipped....

For equipment under 10,000 pounds (like your tractor), you only are required to use 2 chains by Fed DOT. Individual states may be more restrictive, but not less.

I read recently for motorized vehicles with (4) or more tires requires (4) chains; one at each corner of the vehicle. I don't know if that is weight determined but I don't think so.

Also make sure chain/clevis grade and binder strength is marked. Strength of sum of chains should be minimum 1.5 times the weight of the load.

No I am not 100% sure (4) chains are required and maybe the above quote is true. But personally I don't like to see (1) chain front and rear just run fairly perpendicular to the trailer length looped over or through an attachment point pulling down. I prefer to run from the "corners" of tractor to trailer so the chain tries to stretch the tractor and pull it down. Then look at implement and tie it down as well.

As someone already said its all about safety remember this is a free forum so advice is suspect (mine included) if in doubt look up the regulations.

Don't flame me but asking some troopers is not a bad idea but don't even take thier word as gospel. The next DOT man/woman may have a different interpretation of the letter of the law. Pay attention and see how the truck drivers tie down. Don't just go by one or two examples but notice several. They have to obey the most demanding guidelines and pass weigh station checks therefore are generally the best example.

 

[schiker]

clipped....

For equipment under 10,000 pounds (like your tractor), you only are required to use 2 chains by Fed DOT. Individual states may be more restrictive, but not less.

I read recently for motorized vehicles with (4) or more tires requires (4) chains; one at each corner of the vehicle. I don't know if that is weight determined but I don't think so.

Also make sure chain/clevis grade and binder strength is marked. Strength of sum of chains should be minimum 1.5 times the weight of the load.

No I am not 100% sure (4) chains are required and maybe the above quote is true. But personally I don't like to see (1) chain front and rear just run fairly perpendicular to the trailer length looped over or through an attachment point pulling down. I prefer to run from the "corners" of tractor to trailer so the chain tries to stretch the tractor and pull it down. Then look at implement and tie it down as well.

As someone already said its all about safety remember this is a free forum so advice is suspect (mine included) if in doubt look up the regulations.

Don't flame me but asking some troopers is not a bad idea but don't even take thier word as gospel. The next DOT man/woman may have a different interpretation of the letter of the law. Pay attention and see how the truck drivers tie down. Don't just go by one or two examples but notice several. They have to obey the most demanding guidelines and pass weigh station checks therefore are generally the best example.

 

[Iowachild]

Here is a chart outlining the number of chains required for various loads.
How Many Binders Do I Need?

 

[john_bud]

clipped....

I read recently for motorized vehicles with (4) or more tires requires (4) chains; one at each corner of the vehicle. I don't know if that is weight determined but I don't think so.

No I am not 100% sure (4) chains are required and maybe the above quote is true. But personally I don't like to see (1) chain front and rear just run fairly perpendicular to the trailer length looped over or through an attachment point pulling down. I prefer to run from the "corners" of tractor to trailer so the chain tries to stretch the tractor and pull it down. Then look at implement and tie it down as well.

Don't worry, no flames.

Publication No.: MC-P/PSV-04-001 That's the fed dot document on cargo securement.


I'm attaching my copy. It may be outdated, so google it up yourself if you have any questions. Page 9 of 44 is where the pertinent information is located. Feel free to perambulate over to it (in a cyber sense that is).

jb

 

[bialecki]

Good read " Cargo Securement Rules": US Department of Transportation, helped clarify questions that I had with regards to Cargo Securement, i.e., Kubota B7800 with FEL & Backhoe.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

For the record, these regs apply to COMMERCIAL vehicles used in interstate commerce only. Regs with-in each state can be more (or less) specific. (including commercial or NON commercial). However, It's in everyones best interest to comply with the intent of the law, commercial or NONcommercial. As with so many other gov regs, there is plenty of room for interpretation. It all boild down to what sort of mood the DOT cop is in and how nice of a judge you end up before. Best advice, IMHO, secure your load far OVER-KILL ,then find a DOT cop and quiz him on how regs are interpreted on a local/state basis. In Kentucky, the Division of Commercial Vehicle Enforcement is always more than willing to explain our states rules and regs. While they're largely responsible for interstate commerce involving big trucks, they're somewhat responsible for policing ANYTHING on interstates that could reasonably effect commerce on their highways. That often includes passenger cars, private "not-for-hire" haulers, ect.

Also, A Ky State Trooper once explained to me that even noncommercial haulers who become involved in a traffic accident may be held to "acceptable standards" by a jury in the case of a civil trial. The DOT regs can (and often ARE) those "acceptable standards". Best to comply, even if they don't apply directly to your situation.

 

[john_bud]

For the record, these regs apply to COMMERCIAL vehicles used in interstate commerce only. Regs with-in each state can be more (or less) specific. (including commercial or NON commercial). However, It's in everyones best interest to comply with the intent of the law, commercial or NONcommercial. As with so many other gov regs, there is plenty of room for interpretation. It all boild down to what sort of mood the DOT cop is in and how nice of a judge you end up before. Best advice, IMHO, secure your load far OVER-KILL ,then find a DOT cop and quiz him on how regs are interpreted on a local/state basis. In Kentucky, the Division of Commercial Vehicle Enforcement is always more than willing to explain our states rules and regs. While they're largely responsible for interstate commerce involving big trucks, they're somewhat responsible for policing ANYTHING on interstates that could reasonably effect commerce on their highways. That often includes passenger cars, private "not-for-hire" haulers, ect.

Also, A Ky State Trooper once explained to me that even noncommercial haulers who become involved in a traffic accident may be held to "acceptable standards" by a jury in the case of a civil trial. The DOT regs can (and often ARE) those "acceptable standards". Best to comply, even if they don't apply directly to your situation.

Great points, Farm!

Aparently, like you, I have gone to the trouble of reading what a professional would do and then I do my best to emulate that way.

The other standard that I try to live up to, is to at least look like you know what you are doing. Using chain and ratcheting binders are a step up in both quality and safety from either straps or chains and lever binders. Everything being neat and orderly shows you care. If you care, the police don't have to.

jb

 

[workinallthetime]

ok after reading all these post on how to chain my stuff down and dot req. i went out and spent 45 bucks on a 5/16 ratchit binder, i hate it ! my old pull style binders are so much faster and so much more easy to use. i drilled a hole in the handle of my old binders to mount a lock in to hold them together even though i have never had one fail.

so tell me o mighty ones what am i doing wrong with these ratchit binders? the chain is turning around the binder and the binder gets to a point where it doesnt do tighten or open up when i need it to ?
i think a 4 ton come a long is easier to use, lol

 

[Farmwithjunk]

ok after reading all these post on how to chain my stuff down and dot req. i went out and spent 45 bucks on a 5/16 ratchit binder, i hate it ! my old pull style binders are so much faster and so much more easy to use. i drilled a hole in the handle of my old binders to mount a lock in to hold them together even though i have never had one fail.

so tell me o mighty ones what am i doing wrong with these ratchit binders? the chain is turning around the binder and the binder gets to a point where it doesnt do tighten or open up when i need it to ?
i think a 4 ton come a long is easier to use, lol

Safe bet, if you're anything like the rest of us, first time you ever really tightened down a load with lever binders, they seemed just a little awkward. In short order, you got used to them. Same applies to rachet binders. You get used to handling them and setting your chains to better accomodate them. I'm not opposed to EITHER type IF THEY ARE USED CORRECTLY. I PREFER rachets. Police seem to be "less skeptical" of rachets (as opposed to lever binders). I like to keep them happy too. In the end, "easy" is nice, but it isn't the objective.

 

[john_bud]

Well, here's what I do. Maybe right, maybe wrong. You decide.


I first extend the binder alot. Mostly all the way. Run the chain thru and around. Hook the binder by the end of the chain and pull the other side tight and hook the binder there. (Making a loop of slack) Then I hand spin the binder to take out the slack, holding the chain so it doesn't spin. After a couple turns, there is enough tension that it no longer needs to be held and can be ratcheted down tight.

I can say that the load can be pulled down tight and in one draw down. Unlike the flip over binders where (at least I) need to snap them down and reposition several times to get the slack out. On the rear, the tires are deflected down and more tension is put in that I could ever get with the pull over binders.

On the whole, the ratchets are slower - probably a minute slower. But, I'm not in that much of a hurry where a single minute will make any difference at all.

If you keep at the binders and don't like them, just mail them to me. (toss in a short box diesel fuel sender while you're at it , too! ) ;-)


jb

 

[workinallthetime]

i guess after using my break over binders for so long i know exactly where to put them so that i only pull em down once with a 2 foot cheeter. when the guy delived my b3030 he used the ratchit style and was very specific about how he set up his chain ( i should have watched but i was awe struck with the 3030 sittin in my yard)
i would like to figure out how to use them, as many have said cops like em better. with the new tractor being only about twice as heavy as the old one,lol i am taking the opertunity to try new things. if i have another good month i will get another one and some more chain.

still havin trouble with that sender? i forgot about that ill see what i can do to get you one if you want, i figured you had fixed it by now. send me a private with your VIN and ill get the part number and start looking for one.

 

[kevinj]

so tell me o mighty ones what am i doing wrong with these ratchit binders? the chain is turning around the binder and the binder gets to a point where it doesnt do tighten or open up when i need it to ?
i think a 4 ton come a long is easier to use, lol

Rachet binders need to be clean and lubed for easy use. Like most devices a bit of use will smooth them up.