I need a 3 point hitch geometry lesson.

[Camo]

Well I just got my FEL on, and sorrily underestimated the ballast weight needed to counter balance the FEL even nearly empty. I was taking some garbage that weighed less than 50lb down my concrete driveway today, with no ballast weight. When I tried to slow down a little, All I got was howling and skidding rear tires! I was headed for a main highway, so I managed to run it up along the berm to get it stopped where I proptly checked my shorts for lumps.
Sooo, I HAD thought that 200lb would be plenty, I'm now thinking that I need alot more, like in the 600 -800lb range. My 275lb butt in the seat sure didn't do diddly. So I got a plastic drum to build my ballast with, and I cut the holes for my drawbar, now I need a top link attachment. I just got this Cat 1 top link, but it seems too long unless I attach it toward the middle of the concrete that I plan to fill the drum with. If I use a middle position, I am guessing that I'd have to shorten the barrel dramatically, which sacrices the weight that it could potentially hold. Or should I get a Cat 0 short top link and put the top link attachment on the side of the barrel? How does top link length affect the tilt if it when raising and lowering the hitch?

 

[aczlan]

you will need a shorter toplink otherwise you wont be able to lift the drum without bending something, there is a thread here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/88061-rear-weight.html?highlight=ballast with more info on ballast boxes of all shapes and sizes.

Aaron Z

 

[dfkrug]

When I tried to slow down a little, All I got was howling and skidding rear tires! I was headed for a main highway, so I managed to run it up along the berm to get it stopped.....

First, let me say that it is safer to lower your loader bkt onto the ground
instead of going off the road. It is very easy to roll a tractor.

That said, why not buy a box scraper? A VERY useful tool and excellent
ballast as well. Even that small tractor will handle a 400-500# BB no
problem.

 

[Camo]

I see your point, but storage space in my garage is at a premium.

 

[xlr82v2]

You're definitely going to need a different top link, the one that you have is just too long for your tractor. I doubt that it will work with any attachments you have.

 

[teg]

Been there done that... I put the tractor in 4WD, the front tires will "brake" for you. Mine is HST and not sure it would work the same with your tractor (but I think it should ).

I would also think if you cut the drum in half, fill that with concrete, with a top link hookup in the middle of the drum... might work? 25 gallons of concrete is 500 pounds (a guess).

 

[cdhd2001]

Well I just got my FEL on, and sorrily underestimated the ballast weight needed to counter balance the FEL even nearly empty. I was taking some garbage that weighed less than 50lb down my concrete driveway today, with no ballast weight. When I tried to slow down a little, All I got was howling and skidding rear tires! I was headed for a main highway, so I managed to run it up along the berm to get it stopped where I proptly checked my shorts for lumps.
Sooo, I HAD thought that 200lb would be plenty, I'm now thinking that I need alot more, like in the 600 -800lb range. My 275lb butt in the seat sure didn't do diddly. So I got a plastic drum to build my ballast with, and I cut the holes for my drawbar, now I need a top link attachment. I just got this Cat 1 top link, but it seems too long unless I attach it toward the middle of the concrete that I plan to fill the drum with. If I use a middle position, I am guessing that I'd have to shorten the barrel dramatically, which sacrices the weight that it could potentially hold. Or should I get a Cat 0 short top link and put the top link attachment on the side of the barrel? How does top link length affect the tilt if it when raising and lowering the hitch?

I would either use a cat 0 top link or build a shorter one out of angle iron.

 

[Camo]

Been there done that... I put the tractor in 4WD, the front tires will "brake" for you. Mine is HST and not sure it would work the same with your tractor (but I think it should ).

I would also think if you cut the drum in half, fill that with concrete, with a top link hookup in the middle of the drum... might work? 25 gallons of concrete is 500 pounds (a guess).

4wd would have helped alot, but I was on the move, and not able to lock it in. Never thought I'd need it on dry concrete.

 

[teg]

Try loose gravel and steep!!! I just keep it in 4x4 now... you're right that you can NOT engage during the slide... even if I could take my hands off the steering wheel .

Have you got anything loaded in the rear tires?? That's pretty easy and you can do it yourself. It gets you a few extra pounds.

 

[Nightowl66]

I have a B6200 kubota with a FEL. I have 2- 90lb wheel weights and that seems to help alot. I have a rear blade on it for snow removal that adds a couple hundred pounds but that will be coming off soon.

 

[Jimbrown]

If your tractor is 4 wheel drive and you had it 4x4 it wont do that near as bad. I always engage 4x4 before decending steep grades other wise it just slide down the hill.

 

[StrangeRanger]

I see your point, but storage space in my garage is at a premium.

Like your wife's car needs to be in the garage pfftt

On a side note, you really don't want to be running down your DRY concrete drive in 4wd. So consider a box blade or ballast box for sure.

 

[blagg]

just get a piece of channel iron or 2 pieces of 2" x 3/8" thick x 12" or so long. Weld a "t" across the back and cut hole in side of your barrel. Once filled and dry with concrete, it will not go anywhere!! The particular one I have now has channel coming out of top. My old one protrudes from the side of the barrel, position it so your toplink will attach slightly above parallel to the lower arms.

 

[john_bud]

Get the rear tires filled with fluid !!!


Then get the rear ballast.

Target the rear tires and ballast at 125% of the loader lift with no more than 50% of that in the tires.

 

[Camo]

Get the rear tires filled with fluid !!!


Then get the rear ballast.

Target the rear tires and ballast at 125% of the loader lift with no more than 50% of that in the tires.

Thanks! That is the info I needed to figure what I needed. I'm figuring according to Rim Guard, my tires will hold 14 gallon each, so in washer fluid, I ought to put 224lb on there, along with 5 cf. of concrete on the ballast that ought to weigh in at 750lb and take to approximate space of 37.5 gallons of liquid, I should have some room left in the top of my drum for chains and such. All of that will take me to approx 975lb, 25lb shy of my target weight of 1000lb to counter the 800lb lift capacity. Whew! That was exhausting for the brain!

 

[tommu56]

Camo
The main thing all the links should be basically parralle for the linkage to follow the arch
Your top point is mounted to far up on drum too far in relation to the bottom links they should be in about the same angle your botom link are about 30 degrees below horozinal anf your top link is 30 degrees from verticale it looks like it is too long too like most rvery one else said but set the angles the same to get measure ment for length anfd
tommu

 

[ACERXP]

Camo,
What distance did you put your top link from the bottom link? I measured a scraper blade and it was around 16 inches to the center of the lower pins to the center of the top pin. Obviously you couldn't make the top link even with the bottom, from your picture it looks like your top clevis is only 2 to 3 inches from the edge of the barrel. Did you end up using a cat 0 top link?

I am looking to go the same route with a 30 gallon barrel and just wanted to see if I could get an idea of where to put the bottom bar and the top clevis.

Thanks
Mike

 

[Camo]

Camo,
What distance did you put your top link from the bottom link? I measured a scraper blade and it was around 16 inches to the center of the lower pins to the center of the top pin. Obviously you couldn't make the top link even with the bottom, from your picture it looks like your top clevis is only 2 to 3 inches from the edge of the barrel. Did you end up using a cat 0 top link?

I am looking to go the same route with a 30 gallon barrel and just wanted to see if I could get an idea of where to put the bottom bar and the top clevis.

Thanks
Mike

I took a measurement from the pivot point of the top link to the pivot points on the bottom on the tractor, and transferred that to my barrel. I did use a Cat 0 top link, and it does work very well.

 

[Camo]

Oh, BTW, I built the first one wayyyyy too heavy and the tractor couldn't pick it up..........I had some bad information. I sold that one and built the one with the smaller 30 some gallon barrel, at around 300lbs that works well.

 

[CCWKen]

You may want to check the specs on your rear tires and axle. Adding even 300lbs. could put you over the limit. Is the FEL factory or did you build it?