I know it's a NONO, but I done it anyway

   / I know it's a NONO, but I done it anyway #11  
Now what I don't understand is why it would not work?

Because explosions (and ballistics) are often exponential. I reloaded for years, pushed the envelope significantly..I used to take my primary 44, a Redhawk, to the smith every couple hundred rounds to be examined. I've pushed a 300 grain 44mag to around 1300fps. Yes, it was a handful, but I put down a doe at app. 174 paces with one shot. I shot some pretty hot ammo fairly often, yet I would advise against shooting the 38 rounds with the magnum powder charge. Just my $.02 worth...............

And yes, Unique is a fast burner...and was always one of my favorites. Very versatile powder. Made a great shotgun load too.
 
   / I know it's a NONO, but I done it anyway #12  
This sounds like something I would try, I have had two probs with reloads: 1, I split the barrel of my BFR 454 with a handload, It may have been a barrel quality issue (magnum research replaced whole gun for free) and 2, while waiting all day at an indoor bowling pin shoot for my turn, I hit them well but drew a crowd while I was trying to extract my overly expanded cases from my S&W 686 357. I had to put the extractor on a table top and push down very hard to pop the cases out. In both instances I did not go outside the published recipes.

I say if you can afford a new gun, use a 20 foot piece of string around the corner of a brick wall:)
 
   / I know it's a NONO, but I done it anyway #13  
As I understand it, the .38 Special was originally a black powder round, and when the transition was made to smokeless powder, there was a lot of extra room in the case.

The .357 case is longer only to prevent chambering in a .38 revolver, which is not designed for the pressure of a .357.

.357 loads can be loaded in .38 shells and the only real danger is that someone else will use them in a .38 chambered revolver which can not take the pressure. You should be just fine shooting them in your .357 Ruger.

This is one of those things where the warnings against doing it are dire, but the actual danger is low if you control who has access to the ammunition.

I wouldn't do it because I have been taught it is bad practice, but I would have no hesitation in shooting these rounds in my own .357.

If the .38 had originally been designed as a smokeless round, it would have an overall length similar to a 9 mm round.
 
   / I know it's a NONO, but I done it anyway
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Thank you Dave - that's basically my line of thoughts. Anyway I am still trying to find more info before I try to fire the round.
 
   / I know it's a NONO, but I done it anyway #15  
Thank you Dave - that's basically my line of thoughts. Anyway I am still trying to find more info before I try to fire the round.
What about forcing cone erosion? I've had problems in the past and would really be concerned about splitting the case in this instance...wear good gloves and eye protection, just in case! Good luck.
 
   / I know it's a NONO, but I done it anyway #16  
I just do not understand why the case/cylinder/chamber/forcing cone geometry is going to be any different at all from firing .38s in a .357. Pressures may be higher, but if I can fire thousands of .38s in my 357 with no forcing cone erosion, 20 or 30 higher pressure rounds is not going to make an appreciable difference.

As far as cases splitting, the chamber diameter is correct and one would not expect the cases to over expand.

The only times I have ever seen significant case splitting in .38 cases has been with light target rounds and cases reloaded long beyond their practical life at a police range.

The real causes of rapid forcing cone erosion are gas jets which pass around a slow-moving bullet on its way out of the cylinder/chamber and precede it into the forcing cone. There is no reason to anticipate an increase in this behavior.
 
   / I know it's a NONO, but I done it anyway #17  
I just do not understand why the case/cylinder/chamber/forcing cone geometry is going to be any different at all from firing .38s in a .357. Pressures may be higher, but if I can fire thousands of .38s in my 357 with no forcing cone erosion, 20 or 30 higher pressure rounds is not going to make an appreciable difference.

As far as cases splitting, the chamber diameter is correct and one would not expect the cases to over expand.

The only times I have ever seen significant case splitting in .38 cases has been with light target rounds and cases reloaded long beyond their practical life at a police range.

The real causes of rapid forcing cone erosion are gas jets which pass around a slow-moving bullet on its way out of the cylinder/chamber and precede it into the forcing cone. There is no reason to anticipate an increase in this behavior.
Based on my experience, I respectfully disagree. Simply put., from what I understand, in theory he is not firing a .38 in a .357, he is firing an overcharged measure of powder in a .38 case...the geometry isn't changed, but is likely to be once an extremely fast burning powder in a casing which has an out of spec (higher) charge than designed for is fired. That rapidly expanding gas will begin to exit at the earliest point it can find...the gap between the forcing cone and top strap. I've personally experienced top strap erosion and timing problems from as few as a couple of hundred hotter than spec reloaded .38 rounds...It is especially hard on cylinder timing and lockup. I think it's safe to say he is way beyond +P pressures and possibly .357 pressures with the load he describes. Why take a chance on possibly damaging the cylinder timing and lockup of a perfectly good revolver? It's his, and he can do with it as he wishes, but if he is a reloader I'm sure he at least has an inexpensive bullet puller and I would pull the bullets and remeasure my powder charge. Reloading is a fun and rewarding hobby that can quickly bite you if you don't have a regimented procedure to follow...everyone makes mistakes and it is usually evident upon firing the first shot, but when you KNOW you have an overpressure round I think it would be prudent to take the appropriate measures to correct it. You or I have no way of knowing the condition of his revolver. Want to wager a guess as to why they make these things called broken shell extractors? For situations just like this. I would find it difficult to recommend he proceed. Hard to reload with a missing finger.
 
   / I know it's a NONO, but I done it anyway #18  
So you have casing loaded with a charge the revolver is rated for. So what is the problem?:confused:

Are the case strengths the same for the two different shells?? If not there may be splitting at rim or the cap may bulge??

I'm just thinking of the different length .22 shells that can be used in the same revolver.:)

Course the previous technical aspects mentioned by others are way beyond my intellect.:ashamed:

Prokop, if you do have a failed experiment have your wife post the details please! :)
 
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   / I know it's a NONO, but I done it anyway #19  
... and take pictures! :)
 
   / I know it's a NONO, but I done it anyway #20  
One thing I thought about yesterday when I posted is the fact a magnum round should be loaded with a magnum primer being they are thicker and less prone to blow thru, so if he is using the same mag primers that will help some.

Steve
 

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