I am having a problem with my ROPS

[cag]

Well Mech I'm sorry to hear that, I was kind of hoping the dealer would have been there for you,but it turns out he didn't deserve your money... I would make the effort to contact kioti and explain your situation, post the reply they give you, after all you did buy a product that you believe in, therefore you should expect the service, don't give up.. Keep us posted...cag

 

[HODAK]

mech, I had the same problem with my ROPS. I removed them, (they are very, very heavy), turns out the ear or tab on the left side was slightly out of line. It was welded with a bit of an angle which caused it to come in contact with the fender. Just enough to rub the paint when I lowered them.

I put a heavy C clamp on the tabs and smacked the outer tab with a good ole sledge hammer once or twice, touched up with paint and put them back on. I now have a clearance, not much, but enough. Probably could have filed a little off that tab if I wanted, but didn't need to.

I agree that your dealer should know about this, but for me I took care of it in about an hour and I was back on the tractor.

Good Luck and keep us posted. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[VictorW]

My CK30hst has the older style rops like yours and the right side is my problem. It just touches the fender when I lower it to a 45' to get it into my garage. I'm sure I have scratched the paint on the fender. I haven't dug into the possible fix because of the same thing Hodak mentioned...heavy. One of these days, I'll eat my "Wheaties" and tackle it. I didn't mention it to my dealer because I figured I'd just fix it myself but I would think that is something they should take care of. The shim idea would work but I didn't want to do that for the reasons you mentioned. Maybe a few bowls full this weekend and I can tell you what my fix is. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[HODAK]

VictorW- Maybe a few bowls full this weekend and I can tell you what my fix is.............

Now you're talkin! "Git r Done"

Just be prepared for the weight.

 

[wallace]

Mechanicman53, I know this may not help you much but if you bring the machine to me I will fix your problem.
I will cut the bracket off and reweld it where it is should be and if we can't fix it that way I will install a new ROPS.
There will be no cost to you.
I will also do this on a weekend if you give me a notice ahead of time.

 

[KiotiSteve]

Wallace that is a very kind offer and I am going to make it plan B. If you were a little closer you would be plan A.

Here is plan A. I was out tonight scouring all of my buddies’ tool cribs and I came up with a 10 ton Porto-power. His will both push and pull. The plan is to remove the upper part of the ROPS completely. Connect the Porto-power and apply inward pressure on the part still mounted to the tractor. Then using a wood block and a sledgehammer persuade the left side over a 1/8 of an inch or so. In my book a miss is as good as a mile as long as I don’t hit the fender. I don’t care about both sides being equal for appearance sake. Even now, a few feet away it is unnoticeable. I realize that the sledgehammer persuasion must be done with due care so I will start off very slow and take great pains not to damage the connection to the axel housing. Measurement will be taken! Once the lower half is adjusted more measurements will be taken and the top half pulled in to match. Now, if I all goes as planed, the top and bottom will not be truly parallel to each other. Since it is a sloppy fit to begin with I should have some built-in forgiveness. If not enough space remains I think it would be OK to grind off a 1/32 from each side that faces each other when assembled giving me the 1/8 I would need at the correct angle. Now if the weekend weather will hold I can put my plan into effect! What am I overlooking here? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks to everyone who has responded to this problem, your input is much appreciated. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Wallace I will pm you and thanks again for stepping forward.

 

[Highbeam]

Just don't bust the cast housing. That would be hard to blame on normal use. 10 tons of force is quite a lot and something is going to give.

Good job wallace.

 

[KiotiJohn]

mechanicsman, don't take that ROPS off alone unless you have a winch and something to control the swing well. It is VERY heavy, and takes two strong men to do it, even then with a lot of work.
John

 

[VictorW]

Your idea sounds good but I'd be very carefule not to break the axle housing. Hopefully the attaching bolts would break first if you get to much pressure. Now comes the possible second problem. If you get the movement you need, did the rops bar legs bend or did the bolts start to shear. If they are overstressed at all, they might break when you really need the rops for a roll over. If you just need to bend them slightly, I would rather take each upright bar off and put them in a press to get the little distance you need. Just my two cents about trying to bend the bars while mounted to the tractor.

 

[KiotiSteve]

Thanks Kioti John. I have a tree and a chain hoist. I also have a strong friend who I have coming to help me. Hopefully that will be the hard part. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[KiotiSteve]

Thanks VictorW, Highbeam also mentioned that, so I now have plan B rev.1. I am going to cut a piece of schedule 40 2 inch steel pipe the exact width of the current configuration. I will install it between the post just below where I would like the bend to occur. This should take away the lever action on the cast housing and bolts. I will sandwich it between C clamps to keep it from sliding up or down. The bottom of the ROPS is very beefy so I think it could withstand this minimized pressure without adverse effects.

 

[Gator6x4]

The ROP is part of the safety system. I don't think I would touch it with a porta-power or a sledge hammer. I think if it was my tractor I would call the dealer and Kioti back and ask them if they wanted me to have OSHA to check the ROP to ascertain if it meet factory design specs. The Attorney Generals Office in your State will also assist in geting Kioti to honor the warranty on the tractor. Failure to do so can result in a stop sales order.

 

[KiotiSteve]

The problem I have with your suggestion is that I have a standing offer from a Kioti Dealer - Wallace to do the repair under warranty. The problem with doing that is that he is about 150 miles away. Another problem I have is the dealer I purchased it from is 100 miles away and not in the same state as I am. The reason I am taking the do it yourself approach is for my own convenience. I am not in much of a fighting mood over this. I just want to garage the tractor for the winter and start planning my spring projects. I am more disappointed and frustrated that after being told to "bring it in" by the dealer I purchased it from they had no clue on how to fix it, or made any attempts at resolving the problem for me. Then just cut me lose. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
I am not much worried about weakening the ROPS or effecting the safety factor or their integrity. We are talking very small fractions of an inch.

Your advice is good though on how to proceed with an unaddressed warranty issue. I would never have thought of calling the AG's office. Thanks. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[HODAK]

mech - in my opinion, you're handling this the correct way. You've considered the options and made a plan. These ROPS are very strong and your plan is probably not near as stressful as the tractor tipping over and rolling a few times. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif I would be careful with that porta power and what it reacts against. Although it sounds like you have that covered as well. Let us know how you make out.

 

[KiotiSteve]

Hodak, Thanks for the vote of confidence. Problem solved though by a different approach. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gifI assembled all the tools to do the job, and was prepared to complete it as previously outlined. I decided to remove the light assembly from the fender to prevent any damage when using the hammer. Once removed I had a clearer view of the fender assembly, I also had a better handle ( the hole where the light fixture was) to pull with. A good tug indicated that I would have enough room to operate the ROPS if I could get it to remain in that position. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I scrounged around for something thin enough and rigid enough to rest against the fender. I came up with a large hardwood paint stirring stick compliments of HD. I located a standard 3 foot wrecking bar. I removed the seat from the tractor. I placed the stirrer against the fender the bar between the ROPS and the fender and a couple of good tugs later – Problem Over! I did dimple the fender where most of the pressure occurred, but it is very minor and really not noticeable. Put the seat back on and the installed the light assembly and now I am one happy tractor owner. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Thanks All.

 

[VictorW]

Persistance and some sound planning before acting goes a long way. Happy to hear yours is fixed. I still haven't tackled mine. To many jobs on my list and the tractor gets pushed farther back. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[KiotiSteve]

When I originally tried pulling from the edge of the fender there was very little give. Once the light was out and I got a firm grip I was able to pull it right where I wanted it without any separation from the frame. You know the rest of the story. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

It only required 3 or 4 minutes to remove the light with a Philips screw driver. I then loosened the wiring harness unplugged the wiring cable and moved the fixture to a work bench out of the way. So it really doesn't take much time and very little muscle if you have a long pry bar. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Good Luck with yours victorw, when you can find time to do it let me know if it works for you.