I am having a problem with my ROPS

[KiotiSteve]

Thanks VictorW, Highbeam also mentioned that, so I now have plan B rev.1. I am going to cut a piece of schedule 40 2 inch steel pipe the exact width of the current configuration. I will install it between the post just below where I would like the bend to occur. This should take away the lever action on the cast housing and bolts. I will sandwich it between C clamps to keep it from sliding up or down. The bottom of the ROPS is very beefy so I think it could withstand this minimized pressure without adverse effects.

 

[Gator6x4]

The ROP is part of the safety system. I don't think I would touch it with a porta-power or a sledge hammer. I think if it was my tractor I would call the dealer and Kioti back and ask them if they wanted me to have OSHA to check the ROP to ascertain if it meet factory design specs. The Attorney Generals Office in your State will also assist in geting Kioti to honor the warranty on the tractor. Failure to do so can result in a stop sales order.

 

[KiotiSteve]

The problem I have with your suggestion is that I have a standing offer from a Kioti Dealer - Wallace to do the repair under warranty. The problem with doing that is that he is about 150 miles away. Another problem I have is the dealer I purchased it from is 100 miles away and not in the same state as I am. The reason I am taking the do it yourself approach is for my own convenience. I am not in much of a fighting mood over this. I just want to garage the tractor for the winter and start planning my spring projects. I am more disappointed and frustrated that after being told to "bring it in" by the dealer I purchased it from they had no clue on how to fix it, or made any attempts at resolving the problem for me. Then just cut me lose. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
I am not much worried about weakening the ROPS or effecting the safety factor or their integrity. We are talking very small fractions of an inch.

Your advice is good though on how to proceed with an unaddressed warranty issue. I would never have thought of calling the AG's office. Thanks. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[HODAK]

mech - in my opinion, you're handling this the correct way. You've considered the options and made a plan. These ROPS are very strong and your plan is probably not near as stressful as the tractor tipping over and rolling a few times. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif I would be careful with that porta power and what it reacts against. Although it sounds like you have that covered as well. Let us know how you make out.

 

[KiotiSteve]

Hodak, Thanks for the vote of confidence. Problem solved though by a different approach. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gifI assembled all the tools to do the job, and was prepared to complete it as previously outlined. I decided to remove the light assembly from the fender to prevent any damage when using the hammer. Once removed I had a clearer view of the fender assembly, I also had a better handle ( the hole where the light fixture was) to pull with. A good tug indicated that I would have enough room to operate the ROPS if I could get it to remain in that position. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I scrounged around for something thin enough and rigid enough to rest against the fender. I came up with a large hardwood paint stirring stick compliments of HD. I located a standard 3 foot wrecking bar. I removed the seat from the tractor. I placed the stirrer against the fender the bar between the ROPS and the fender and a couple of good tugs later – Problem Over! I did dimple the fender where most of the pressure occurred, but it is very minor and really not noticeable. Put the seat back on and the installed the light assembly and now I am one happy tractor owner. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Thanks All.

 

[VictorW]

Persistance and some sound planning before acting goes a long way. Happy to hear yours is fixed. I still haven't tackled mine. To many jobs on my list and the tractor gets pushed farther back. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[KiotiSteve]

When I originally tried pulling from the edge of the fender there was very little give. Once the light was out and I got a firm grip I was able to pull it right where I wanted it without any separation from the frame. You know the rest of the story. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

It only required 3 or 4 minutes to remove the light with a Philips screw driver. I then loosened the wiring harness unplugged the wiring cable and moved the fixture to a work bench out of the way. So it really doesn't take much time and very little muscle if you have a long pry bar. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Good Luck with yours victorw, when you can find time to do it let me know if it works for you.