3-Point Hitch hyraulic top link? B21

[joea99]

Thinking about a box blade, instead of a Land Leveler. Both EA items. While the LL seems easier, I really have more to do that just "maintain" the road/driveway. The drainage is poor and needs side drainage and crowning. Also have some ground, dirt, rocks, I need to clear up and level.

Most say a hydraulic top link makes it almost fun to use a box blade and some say the standard B21/B26 top link might bend if pushing backwards. Just starting to look at what might be needed.

Cat 1 hydraulic top links seem to be under $150. I read that a "remote" setup is needed and find them quite expensive. But, since the backhoe will be removed, is it reasonable to look into just rigging up something on my own, plugging into the backhoe oil supply? Or is that what the remote kits all do anyway?

Have a WR Long 4 in 1 bucket now, which has a "remote" (?) for that already. I leave that alone, I'm thinking.

 

[jeff9366]

Some say the standard B21/B26 top link might bend if pushing backwards. Just starting to look at what might be needed.

I do not think the B21 Top Link will be a problem. The potential problem(s) are your two Lower Link stabilizers.

You should not PUSH dirt with chain/turnbuckle stabilizers for your Three Point Hitch. Chain/turnbuckle stabilizers only support the Lower Links when the tractor is operating forward, when the "chains" are in tension.

If you wish to prudently PUSH dirt you need install rigid, pin-adjustable stabilizers to your Lower Links. Tractors are designed to PULL. You have to be very careful when you PUSH or something will break.


B21 T-L-B had 21-horsepower gross when new. Not too sure how heavy a Box Blade your T-L-B can pull after this much time and tire tread wear. Box Blades depend on weight to peel slices of moist soil into the "box".

 

[joea99]

I do not think the B21 Top Link will be a problem. The potential problem(s) are your two Lower Link stabilizers.

You should not PUSH dirt with chain/turnbuckle stabilizers for your Three Point Hitch. Chain/turnbuckle stabilizers only support the Lower Links when the tractor is operating forward, when the "chains" are in tension.

If you wish to prudently PUSH dirt you need install rigid, pin-adjustable stabilizers to your Lower Links. Tractors are designed to PULL. You have to be very careful when you PUSH or something will break.


B21 T-L-B had 21-horsepower gross when new. Not too sure how heavy a Box Blade your T-L-B can pull after this much time and tire tread wear. Box Blades depend on weight to peel slices of moist soil into the "box".

I'll look around for that type stabilizers. Any suggestions for sources?

The size of the B21 concerns me a bit regarding being able to effectively use the box blade as I hope (got some big rocks hidden in the dirt) but EA makes a range of sizes. For this class from 55-72" and 350-400 lbs as I recall.

When I brought up Box Blade to a neighbor some time ago he looked a bit skeptical. Did not get into why, beyond "touchy to use".

 

[jeff9366]

1. The key parameter for Box Blades is implement weight per unit of width. Eighty pounds per foot of width is good.

2. Box Blade should be rear tire outside width or up to 12" wider (6" each side). With your limited power I would shop for outside tire width to 4" wider.

3. Only a Moldboard Plow requires more time than a Box Blade to learn to use proficiently. Most here consider all tractor seat time fun time.

 

[jeff9366]

I'll look around for that type stabilizers. Any suggestions for sources?

It is possible the TPH kit for your B21 has rigid stabilizers. Check.

The B21/B26 is a low volume model. Rigid stabilizers for a standard Kubota 'B' model tractor may fit. I would start with your Kubota dealer.

Mark Hodge at Stabilworks custom made mine which have been perfect. He made rigid stabilizers part time. He may or may not still be in business: markhdg@gmail.com

eBay: Stabilizer Assembly for Ford New Holland Tractor - D9NNB856AA | eBay

VIDEO: Kubota Standard L Series L843 Telescopic Stabilizer kit (overview and install) - YouTube

 

[Tinhack]

Rigid stabilizers are unnecessary and a "gimmick" sold by some dealers. If you have chain stabilizers adjusted correctly and an implement attached, the lower arms are not going to move side to side. That's all I got to say except the guy in the video didn't even know what kind of wench he was holding.

 

[joea99]

It is possible the TPH kit for your B21 has rigid stabilizers. Check.

The B21/B26 is a low volume model. Rigid stabilizers for a standard Kubota 'B' model tractor may fit. I would start with your Kubota dealer.

Mark Hodge at Stabilworks custom made mine which have been perfect. He made rigid stabilizers part time. He may or may not still be in business: markhdg@gmail.com

By "low volume" I take it to mean production numbers?

In any case, looking at this semi rationally, if I really need to "push" I can always "back blade" or frustrate myself with the 4 in 1 "bull dozer" fantasy . . . Pushing with the Box Blade would be a nice thing, but I could probably get by.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Any tractor with at least one set of free hydraulic remotes I find a hydraulic top link to be handy. Never had one until we found the used 3PH fork lift attachment. We just left it on the tractor after getting it.

 

[joea99]

It is possible the TPH kit for your B21 has rigid stabilizers. Check.
. . .
Mark Hodge at Stabilworks custom made mine which have been perfect. He made rigid stabilizers part time. He may or may not still be in business:

The links are like the ones shown in your earlier picture. Same as B26.

Mark Hodge still has a web page, dropped him a line.

In any case, looking over the hitch, seem to me the stabilizers, in the case of the Box Blade I'm looking at anyway, may not take a whole lot of "compressive" force or shock, with the heavier links directly mounted to the Box and Tractor are taking most of the beating, hopefully "square" to the direction of travel.

I have zero experience using a Box Blade and can only engage in wool gathering at this point so could easily be missing some crucial point.

 

[jeff9366]

Rigid stabilizers are unnecessary and a "gimmick" sold by some dealers. If you have chain stabilizers adjusted correctly and an implement attached, the lower arms are not going to move side to side.

The Kubota factory turnbuckle stabilizers in this picture weigh about 4-1/2 pounds.

The rigid Mark Hodge 'Stabilworks' stabilizers in this picture weigh about 12 pounds.

I personally deformed/bent the properly adjusted Kubota factory turnbuckle stabilizers in this picture pushing dirt with a Rollover Box Blade.

Kubota B3300SU tractor-loader.

 

[Tinhack]

Well yeah, those factory turnbuckles do look a little Mickey-Mouse. You probably are ahead there. But with an implement attached, the chains are NOT being PUSHED as everyone thinks. The force is applied to the opposing side in a PULL. Your turnbuckle was not bent in a pull. Which means to me, they were NOT adjusted correctly. The truth is the "rigid" stabilizers aren't rigid. They can only be adjusted to the nearest loose hole. Shortly after the beginning of the video shows what I'm talking about. The guy moves the arm back and forth with the "rigid" stabilizer installed (preview). The lower arms can still flop around. They sure don't look compatible with a quick hitch either. Too much slop or the arms have to be offset--Not centered behind the tractor.

My chain links are 1/2" with a 1 1/8" closed nut over 3/4" threaded ends. It's not like those open nut style you're showing in your photo. I have no problems with mine.

 

[Smokeydog]

Box blades require lots of adjustments to be most effective. The turnbuckle adjusters for stabilization and leveling on the TLB are not good. Have experience with B20, B26 and M59.

B26 mods

Modified the pin stabilizers and added the leveling box.
Use the same pin stabilizers on the M59 so they are plenty strong.

Hydraulic top and tilt would be nice. Factory, custom or DIY. Depends on your money and experience.

I agree the OEM top link is too wimpy to push backwards. Cheap box blades will also bend or break pushing backwards too.

Load the rears if you do much ground engagement.

 

[kwbretired]

I totally agree with tinhack. I’ve pushed with my box blade for 30 years & never had a problem with the chain stabilizers. Iv push everything you can think of over the years trees, stumps, dirt, gravel, bolders etc. the list can go on forever.