Hydro top link

/ Hydro top link #1  

tman1020

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2014
Messages
1,467
Location
north west indiana
Tractor
Bobcat ct225 and Bad Boy zero turn
Getting ready to pull the plug on a hydraulic top link. They are not cheep.
 
/ Hydro top link #2  
There is nothing about hydraulics that's cheap expect for o-rings and advice on TBN :)
 
/ Hydro top link #3  
I made my own. I had a 3x8 hyd cylinder that had a rusted rod. I took it apart and had a new rod made at the machine shop. $70 for that. I didn't need 8 inches of stroke so I cut two inches off the barrel and retreaded the four bolts so that I could put it all back together. I bought top link ball joints at Princess Auto and welded one the the shaft and the other to the end of the cylinder.

I needed to split the flow to my rear outlet. I already had the splitter. It was something that I had traded for. I built a mount for the splitter and got hoses made up and I was in business. I ran 1/4 inch lines to the top link so that the cylinder wouldn't move to fast. It all works good. I don't remember what I spent but it was fairly reasonable. If I was to do it again I would just buy a top link cylinder from Surplus Center
 
/ Hydro top link
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Fit right hydraulics is who I was planning on purchasing from. Seems like a very nice guy to deal with large backlog though so order early if you want one.
 
/ Hydro top link #6  
I dont think you'll regret having one. Its awesome so much easier to adjust on the fly with my box scraper, bush hog, and even the 3pt splitter. The first 2 weigh 1300 lbs plus and are really a bear to adjust with a manual link. When i save up enough for a 3rd remote and side link i will order one through Brian
 
/ Hydro top link #7  
If you do any grading etc. type work...IMO you will find the the HTL will become one of the most valuable things you can put on a tractor...every time you don't have to stop and get off the tractor to make an adjustment you will thank yourself and wonder why you waited for the upgrade...
The only thing better to make operating easier would be both a top link and a tilt cylinder...
 
/ Hydro top link #8  
does the top link have to be a 2-way cylinder or just 1-way?
 
/ Hydro top link
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I think most all of them are double acting cylinders. There may be some single acting cylinders purpose built but I don't feel that would be very safe. I've also heard of guys using a chain as a top link to allow more float but again creates a safety issue.
 
/ Hydro top link #11  
My top link cylinder was under $200, then another $15-20 for fittings and $35 for custom hoses. That was pretty inexpensive to me. About the same for a side link, which I haven't done yet.

On the other hand, the Kubota factory remote valve kit was over $1K, and that was a bit difficult to swallow...

I think a DIY hydraulic top link is a pretty easy project -- you really just need to find a cylinder with the correct ends and the right length/stroke. If you have a mechanical top link already, you can measure it to get the needed length/stroke and look for something in the ballpark.
 
/ Hydro top link #12  
I have one tractor with just a hydraulic top link and one with both hydraulic top and side links. I actually don't find that much use for the side link. I'm using the top link almost continuously.
Mf
 
/ Hydro top link #13  
Pm me I have a used one for sale like new cat1
 
/ Hydro top link #15  
love my hyd top link. perfect for almost all soil engagement tools, rotary cutter, etc. also, since i work alone a lot, i feel it's safer to make those height adjustments from the tractor seat rather than standing between the rear wheels & implement constantly adjusting back & forth. certainly justifies an extra remote. best regards
 
/ Hydro top link
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Thanks for all the replies I just ordered one from fit right hydraulics. It has flow adjusters but no check valve.
 
/ Hydro top link #20  
Also, why wouldn't you add another single spool valve to control this, rather than using expensive SCV connections intended for higher flow?

My thinking has been to mount a dedicated valve to the fender or someplace I can reach from the seat and from the ground out back, and connect it off the SCV via a T or maybe out the PB port, and then splice in to the return line accordingly. This way I can hard line the pressure and return, and the only soft lines would be to the link itself.
 

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