Hydraulics for Rear Blade
- Thread starter Phred
- Start date
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markie61
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2001
- Messages
- 1,362
- Location
- Northern Virginia
- Tractor
- 2019 Rural King RK55HC with Loader & Backhoe; 2001 New Holland TC40D with Loader
What are the other ends plumbed to? Rear remote? Loader valve?
Mark
Mark
rdbrumfield
Veteran Member
Looks great, wish my blade was that heavily built.
Mark,
Its plumbed into the two remotes I have on the tractor.
The remotes are controlled by a joy stick in the cab.
Normally the two remotes run the loader. But I can take the loader off and run the blade instead. The only penalty is the loader is a pain to take off and put back on.
Fred
Its plumbed into the two remotes I have on the tractor.
The remotes are controlled by a joy stick in the cab.
Normally the two remotes run the loader. But I can take the loader off and run the blade instead. The only penalty is the loader is a pain to take off and put back on.
Fred
Randall,
Thanks.
Its CAT 2 and this 70 hp tractor is about the minium to run it. Even in 4wd and crawler gear I have to be carefull about how big of a bit I take. Otherwise it grinds to a halt.
The penalty is the CAT2 blades cost about twice that of the smaller CAT1 blades.
I guess now I have no excuse about the sad shape of the dirt roads on the property.
Fred
Thanks.
Its CAT 2 and this 70 hp tractor is about the minium to run it. Even in 4wd and crawler gear I have to be carefull about how big of a bit I take. Otherwise it grinds to a halt.
The penalty is the CAT2 blades cost about twice that of the smaller CAT1 blades.
I guess now I have no excuse about the sad shape of the dirt roads on the property.
Fred
OkieG
Veteran Member
Phred,
That's a very nice set-up. Good work! I have 3 questions for you.
1. Do you have a feel yet for how valuable side tilt is? Months ago I read a thread where the author was thrilled with side tilt and wouldn't have his blade without it. I've been wondering if it was one of those things you might not use much, but don't want to be without when you do need it.
2. Would the "tilt" function of a Tip n Tilt set-up do the same thing as the tilt cylinder on your blade? To get extra tilt for ditching, etc., I was thinking of being able to pin the blade at two for three different amounts of side tilt, from mild to severe, and then use the TnT cylinder to fine tune. Is that a reasonable way to get extra tilt? Do you ever need extra tilt?
3. Do you see any value in being able to tilt the blade forward and back? I see construction road graders have that capability, but I haven't seen it as a backblade feature. I am planning on building my own backblade before next winter (I was trying for this winter, but it's not going to happen) and have decided that building front/back tilt into the blade could be done as easily as having the blade rotate in any of the more common directions. I would do it if that function was useful. I don't know if changing the angle of attack of the cutting edge is that crucial (or desireable) between plowing snow and grading dirt. Maybe?
OkieG
That's a very nice set-up. Good work! I have 3 questions for you.
1. Do you have a feel yet for how valuable side tilt is? Months ago I read a thread where the author was thrilled with side tilt and wouldn't have his blade without it. I've been wondering if it was one of those things you might not use much, but don't want to be without when you do need it.
2. Would the "tilt" function of a Tip n Tilt set-up do the same thing as the tilt cylinder on your blade? To get extra tilt for ditching, etc., I was thinking of being able to pin the blade at two for three different amounts of side tilt, from mild to severe, and then use the TnT cylinder to fine tune. Is that a reasonable way to get extra tilt? Do you ever need extra tilt?
3. Do you see any value in being able to tilt the blade forward and back? I see construction road graders have that capability, but I haven't seen it as a backblade feature. I am planning on building my own backblade before next winter (I was trying for this winter, but it's not going to happen) and have decided that building front/back tilt into the blade could be done as easily as having the blade rotate in any of the more common directions. I would do it if that function was useful. I don't know if changing the angle of attack of the cutting edge is that crucial (or desireable) between plowing snow and grading dirt. Maybe?
OkieG
JohnMiller3
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2001
- Messages
- 2,517
- Location
- Capital District, Upstate New York
- Tractor
- Satoh S650G, MF135, MF165, JD5205
Hi Fred,
The first time I saw your blade… I loved it… now even more so… /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif
I can see the excuse for a “third” remote to “offset” the blade r/l ~ 2-3’… /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
That does it… today I’m calling to see how much…/w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif
I just gots to have one…/w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
The first time I saw your blade… I loved it… now even more so… /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif
I can see the excuse for a “third” remote to “offset” the blade r/l ~ 2-3’… /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
That does it… today I’m calling to see how much…/w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif
I just gots to have one…/w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
JohnMiller3
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2001
- Messages
- 2,517
- Location
- Capital District, Upstate New York
- Tractor
- Satoh S650G, MF135, MF165, JD5205
<font color=blue>...3" x8" cylinders ...</font color=blue>
Did you measure the "travel" of the blade x/y axis to determine min/max prior to deciding on an 8" unit...?
From the picture, it appears you have a lot more "wiggle" room for tilt... like 12-16" travel (guessing) for ditching purposes...
Also what system are you incorporating to determine the blade is "level" with it's A-frame... or just "seat of the pants" method now...? /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
Did you measure the "travel" of the blade x/y axis to determine min/max prior to deciding on an 8" unit...?
From the picture, it appears you have a lot more "wiggle" room for tilt... like 12-16" travel (guessing) for ditching purposes...
Also what system are you incorporating to determine the blade is "level" with it's A-frame... or just "seat of the pants" method now...? /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
George,
I think by side tilt you mean blade offset? In otherwords the whole blade assembly shifts such that the center of the blade is not directly behind the tractor. This is the only axis that I have not setup with the hydraulics.
I can adjust this with a pin and have ~ 4 settings. I played with it a bit but did not find it very useful for two reasons.
1) This blade is very heavy. With the loader off the whole tractor tips back a bit when you pick it up. Not enough to be a hazard but its a full load. If you now offset this to the side of the tractor I think I would be risky at the edge of a ditch.
Filled tractor tires would probably solve this issue.
2) This blade is 9' so it sticks out beyond the tractor (about 6' wide) a good bit. So I don't really need to shift it. If you had a short blade the offset would be critical since you need to get the tip of the blade in the ditch and not the rear tractor tire in the ditch.
Tip and tilt would probably be just as good. I don't have that setup. I did think about it but decided that the only implement that would need it would be this blade. Also I figured it would be a pain to make sure mowers and other implements were level. I guess the best way to do the tilt would be to swap one of the 3-point arms with a cylinder.
This setup has all the tilt I think I need. I get more tilt out of the cylinder than I can use since when I raise the 3-point completely the end of the blade hits the ground before the cylinder runs out of stroke.
I don't think the front to back tilt is critical. It might help with flow of material off the blade. Not sure how much it would help though.
Good luck with your blade project. For buidling ditches this is the way to go.
Fred
I think by side tilt you mean blade offset? In otherwords the whole blade assembly shifts such that the center of the blade is not directly behind the tractor. This is the only axis that I have not setup with the hydraulics.
I can adjust this with a pin and have ~ 4 settings. I played with it a bit but did not find it very useful for two reasons.
1) This blade is very heavy. With the loader off the whole tractor tips back a bit when you pick it up. Not enough to be a hazard but its a full load. If you now offset this to the side of the tractor I think I would be risky at the edge of a ditch.
Filled tractor tires would probably solve this issue.
2) This blade is 9' so it sticks out beyond the tractor (about 6' wide) a good bit. So I don't really need to shift it. If you had a short blade the offset would be critical since you need to get the tip of the blade in the ditch and not the rear tractor tire in the ditch.
Tip and tilt would probably be just as good. I don't have that setup. I did think about it but decided that the only implement that would need it would be this blade. Also I figured it would be a pain to make sure mowers and other implements were level. I guess the best way to do the tilt would be to swap one of the 3-point arms with a cylinder.
This setup has all the tilt I think I need. I get more tilt out of the cylinder than I can use since when I raise the 3-point completely the end of the blade hits the ground before the cylinder runs out of stroke.
I don't think the front to back tilt is critical. It might help with flow of material off the blade. Not sure how much it would help though.
Good luck with your blade project. For buidling ditches this is the way to go.
Fred
John,
I have been pleased with bison. Similar quality to high end woods at a lower price. Very solid equipment.
I am still reeling from the 3rd remote cost. Orgionally they (NH dealer) told me $500 installed. No its gone up and its about ~$500 for the parts only! I think I will find away to "add" my own with some valves.
I have not measured the tilt but its the better part of 2 feet. Allows for deep ditch cutting.
Level is strictly seat of the pants. I would be good to work out some level indicator because its hard to tell while in the seat.
I used a very precise method to calculate the size of the cylinders. Bison offers a hydraulic version and they use 3x8. So I bought one and tried it out. /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif
Turns out that must be designed for that since any longer would not work. You would hit the back tractor tire with the blade swing and also not be able to get back to parallel.
Fred
I have been pleased with bison. Similar quality to high end woods at a lower price. Very solid equipment.
I am still reeling from the 3rd remote cost. Orgionally they (NH dealer) told me $500 installed. No its gone up and its about ~$500 for the parts only! I think I will find away to "add" my own with some valves.
I have not measured the tilt but its the better part of 2 feet. Allows for deep ditch cutting.
Level is strictly seat of the pants. I would be good to work out some level indicator because its hard to tell while in the seat.
I used a very precise method to calculate the size of the cylinders. Bison offers a hydraulic version and they use 3x8. So I bought one and tried it out. /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif
Turns out that must be designed for that since any longer would not work. You would hit the back tractor tire with the blade swing and also not be able to get back to parallel.
Fred
