Toplink Hydraulic Top Link

[AltavistaLawn]

I priced a Hyd. Top Link and hoses for my JD 4720 , it was around $1,000.00.

This seems high just for a cyclinder...this isn't a tilt kit, just the one cyclinder to replace the top link. I want to use my new rear aux. remotes.

Seems like there would be a cheaper way to go than this.
?

-Thanks.

 

[MadReferee]

Top link with double pilot operated check valves = $250 from CCM when they are in stock. A standard cylinder will be about $100 less.

Hoses (2) with fittings from Discount Hydraulic Hose = about $35 delivered.

A completed system that works = priceless.

Maximum cost should be less than $300, minimum cost should be less than $200. Looks like your dealer is into extremely high profit margins, or else he thinks green=gold.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I priced a Hyd. Top Link and hoses for my JD 4720 , it was around $1,000.00.

This seems high just for a cyclinder...this isn't a tilt kit, just the one cyclinder to replace the top link. I want to use my new rear aux. remotes.

Seems like there would be a cheaper way to go than this.
?

-Thanks.

I found one on EBAY about 3 years ago. I believe it's the same thing CCM sells. I paid $240 with hoses and quick-couplers. Works like a charm!

$1000 is way out of line.

 

[nomad]

No idea on the prices of toplinks there in USA as I have been away from your market for some years. I can only tell that; If a dealer buys such a toplink from me and sells it for $100-150, he will be making good money.

 

[AltavistaLawn]

Thanks guys,
Thats what I was thinking.

 

[T_HedMF1533]

here is what my dealer qouted me on hyd top n tilt.

Side link cylinder $206.49
Top link cylinder $206.49
MF Aux hyd kit w/couplers $1080.00
Hoses for cylinders (approx)$60.00
Approx labor to install kit $120.00


I thought this was way high.?

Hey first post glad to be here.

J

 

[MadReferee]

I thought this was way high.?

That's about right from a dealer. You can always get the stuff cheaper when you purchase it yourself from sources other than the dealer.

The price for the remotes is not bad assuming it's an integrated solution made specifically for you tractor. If it is an external aux valve then it is about 3 times what you can purchase it for.

 

[HayDR]

No idea on the prices of toplinks there in USA as I have been away from your market for some years. I can only tell that; If a dealer buys such a toplink from me and sells it for $100-150, he will be making good money.

Nomad,
We have been worried that you were sick or lost in South America looking for business.

 

[rambler]

Been a while since I've heard from nomad, on any of the boards he used to frequent. Glad to see he is ok.

I like the top link I got from CCM, stays on my NH 1720 most all the time. Good buy.

You got cat 2 models, should get one for my quick hitch, make adjusting the 15 row bean-bar a lot easier - but I'd run out of hyd remotes, come to think of it, & that bean planter would be a _load_ for any 1 hyd cylinder...

--->Paul

 

[Charlesaf3]

Very interesting. Is the CC part a pretty easy substitution on a Kubota b3030 with a rear remote, anyone know?

 

[MadReferee]

Very interesting. Is the CC part a pretty easy substitution on a Kubota b3030 with a rear remote, anyone know?

I use a CCM hydraulic top link on my B2710 with no issues.

 

[Charlesaf3]

Nice pic, thanks. Is it a pretty simple substitution for those of us (me) who know almost nothing about hydraulics?

And how is the general utility/ strength of doing just the top lift?

Finally, I have only one remote (factory). If I'm using that remote for something else, is the top lift a total pain, or could I just set it, and unhook the hoses?

Thanks,

Charles

 

[MadReferee]

Nice pic, thanks. Is it a pretty simple substitution for those of us (me) who know almost nothing about hydraulics?

It's simple. Remove factory toplink. Replace with HTL. Hook up hoses to remote.

And how is the general utility/ strength of doing just the top lift?

The cylinder will always be stronger but it shouldn't matter at all since the load is carried by the 3pt arms.

Finally, I have only one remote (factory). If I'm using that remote for something else, is the top lift a total pain, or could I just set it, and unhook the hoses?

What you need is another remote or an Add-A-Valve from V&M. The whole purpose for an HTL is to allow adjustments on the go. Disconnecting the hoses would be really counter productive.

 

[3RRL]

...And how is the general utility/ strength of doing just the top lift?

Finally, I have only one remote (factory). If I'm using that remote for something else, is the top lift a total pain, or could I just set it, and unhook the hoses?

Thanks,

Charles

Charles.
IMO the strength should be equal or greater than your stock top link. I also think you could unhook the hoses via QD's after setting the top link. The CCM cylinder has a dual pilot operated check valve on it and it should hold it's position unless the force against it overcomes the check valve cracking pressure. I've never tried it that way but it should work.

 

[Charlesaf3]

good to know. Thanks.