Hydraulic top link issues

LD1 · Feb 3, 2017

If you look at the size of the hole in most cylinders, it its pretty much about the same size as the ID of the fittings that would fit it. And usually more than adequate for whatever flow the cylinder is going to see. That opening in your cylinder is large enough to flow enough volume for that cylinder to be extremely fast.

oldballs · Feb 3, 2017

After following several ongoing threads about "Hydraulic Top Link Issues", it almost makes me gland that I don't have one.

. I do use a mold board plow, a box blade, a rear blade, a tiller, a pine needle rake.......now and then. But being just a home owner, these chores are in small volumes and I'm retired...............so manually adjusting my Top Link is no big deal. Avoiding all that rigging clutter and dollars spent is my preference.

Now, If had more volume of work and a bigger rig, I'd be longing for a Hydraulic Top Link with a side link as well. ...just sayin"

Cheers,
Mike

ovrszd · Feb 3, 2017

MtnViewRanch said:
I don't know why, probably the same reason that the welds get done differently. Just how that particular company happens to do it.

I think it's something as simple as "make the hole smaller than the bung you are welding on, then you don't have to be so precise in locating said bung".....

ovrszd · Feb 3, 2017

oldballs said:
After following several ongoing threads about "Hydraulic Top Link Issues", it almost makes me gland that I don't have one.. I do use a mold board plow, a box blade, a rear blade, a tiller, a pine needle rake.......now and then. But being just a home owner, these chores are in small volumes and I'm retired...............so manually adjusting my Top Link is no big deal. Avoiding all that rigging clutter and dollars spent is my preference.

Now, If had more volume of work and a bigger rig, I'd be longing for a Hydraulic Top Link with a side link as well. ...just sayin"

Cheers,
Mike

Mike, none of us NEED our hydraulic top links, not a single one of us.

Gordon Gould · Feb 4, 2017

ovrszd said:
Mike, none of us NEED our hydraulic top links, not a single one of us.

That is very true Richard............... until you get one and use it doing dirt work. Then it becomes closer to a need

gg

ovrszd · Feb 4, 2017

Gordon Gould said:
That is very true Richard............... until you get one and use it doing dirt work. Then it becomes closer to a need

gg

That's simply compassionate wanton lust.

Kodiak45 · Feb 4, 2017

MtnViewRanch said:
With your implement on the ground, fully cycle your top link 5-10 times. That should get the air out.

Now raise the hitch and see if you can feather your valve to your liking. If that's no big deal, then you should be set. But if the cylinder extends faster than it retracts, then there is a real good chance that a vacuum is getting pulled and you are right back to where you started.

Cycling with the implement on the ground worked perfect and most if not all the air was removed from the cylinder. Ground engagement after this showed very little movement in the cylinder. So this means the cylinder is functional, I just need to reduce the flow. I'd rather not have to feather the valve so is there any reason to get a dynamic flow control vs a restrictor bushing?

MtnViewRanch · Feb 4, 2017

mgraham112 said:
Cycling with the implement on the ground worked perfect and most if not all the air was removed from the cylinder. Ground engagement after this showed very little movement in the cylinder. So this means the cylinder is functional, I just need to reduce the flow. I'd rather not have to feather the valve so is there any reason to get a dynamic flow control vs a restrictor bushing?

Not in my mind. A restrictor is all that you need. Depending on the diameter of your cylinder, but I use .030 for 2", .045 for 2 1/2" and .060 for 3". Actually use .070 for cat 3, 3 1/2" units.

Again, I recommend the use of one on each port, but you can get away with one on the rod end port only if you choose to do so.

There are orifice fittings that will fit between your male coupler and hose. These are the easiest ones to use that I know of. They come in .031 and .062 sizes.

LD1 · Feb 5, 2017

mgraham112 said:
Cycling with the implement on the ground worked perfect and most if not all the air was removed from the cylinder. Ground engagement after this showed very little movement in the cylinder. So this means the cylinder is functional, I just need to reduce the flow. I'd rather not have to feather the valve so is there any reason to get a dynamic flow control vs a restrictor bushing?

The benefit is being able to close them off and lock the cylinder in place. How noticable the cylinder drift is without one, is all in the leakage rate of your valve.

As it is currently, if you have an implement on the back and in the air, how quickly does the toplinks bleed down on its own?

olPete · Feb 5, 2017

LD1 said:
The benefit is being able to close them off and lock the cylinder in place. How noticable the cylinder drift is without one, is all in the leakage rate of your valve.

As it is currently, if you have an implement on the back and in the air, how quickly does the toplinks bleed down on its own?

Do these compact tractors not have an adjustable flow rate, on the spool bank?
Or the OP could perhaps put a ball valve in the line to stop creep, unless there is seal bypass in the cylinder, these taps could perform both functions. Have these on my feed wagon lines to keep everything up during storage, and makes connection so much easier when they aren't under pressure.

ovrszd · Feb 5, 2017

Good idea on the ball valves.

My 1984 Ford tractor has speed adjusters on the rear remotes and a central adjuster to slow everything down including the 3pt.

My 2012 Kubota tractor has no such adjustments anywhere.

Go figure.

olPete · Feb 5, 2017

ovrszd said:
Good idea on the ball valves.

My 1984 Ford tractor has speed adjusters on the rear remotes and a central adjuster to slow everything down including the 3pt.

My 2012 Kubota tractor has no such adjustments anywhere.

Go figure.

Haha no wonder theres a whole forum full of problems then. I guess thats progress. I have a bank set up really slow for my top link. the middle one in my picture, it takes about 11 seconds to go in from full extension in, and 14 seconds to go out. The one on the left is the easiest to adjust and has the longest lever so it's the one I use on the mower, its really responsive. And the one to the right is the one I use on the big trailer, it is at full flow and I can lock it to raise the deck by itself, or lock it in float and drive off.

ovrszd · Feb 5, 2017

olPete said:
Haha no wonder theres a whole forum full of problems then. I guess thats progress. I have a bank set up really slow for my top link. the middle one in my picture, it takes about 11 seconds to go in from full extension in, and 14 seconds to go out. The one on the left is the easiest to adjust and has the longest lever so it's the one I use on the mower, its really responsive. And the one to the right is the one I use on the big trailer, it is at full flow and I can lock it to raise the deck by itself, or lock it in float and drive off.

Yep. Rare to find a Utility class of smaller tractor with flow controls like you describe. I always run the Ford with the main valve in "rabbit" mode so the 3pt functions quickly. I then adjust either of the rear remotes to whatever speed applies at the time. I can reach all of the adjusters from the seat.

I think you have to get into larger AG class tractors to see adjusters on rear remotes. Maybe others can share their experiences differently.

olPete · Feb 5, 2017

ovrszd said:
Yep. Rare to find a Utility class of smaller tractor with flow controls like you describe. I always run the Ford with the main valve in "rabbit" mode so the 3pt functions quickly. I then adjust either of the rear remotes to whatever speed applies at the time. I can reach all of the adjusters from the seat.

I think you have to get into larger AG class tractors to see adjusters on rear remotes. Maybe others can share their experiences differently.

I have suddenly got both respect and sympathy for everyone who doesn't have them. I did wonder a little, the steering brakes thread; guys saying they don't use them as they lock wheels and rip up the grass! I guess they just don't have such progressive controls on them as what I'm accustomed to (although I still regard having two brake pedals that work as a luxury). I have operated plenty of excavators/ diggers and the smaller they are the jerkier they become. I suppose it comes down to have much oil's getting moved about as to how fine your movement is.
Maybe my old girl with 7862 hours on the clock will be getting to see a few more

ovrszd · Feb 6, 2017

olPete said:
Maybe my old girl with 7862 hours on the clock will be getting to see a few more

Having a good tractor is similar to having a good wife. Might take her for granted often, but sure would miss her if she were gone.

Kodiak45 · Feb 12, 2017

I was very excited yesterday about using the hyd top link for some box blade work only to deal with the fluttering cylinder once again. I tried to get all the air out, but it was never satisfactory and I feathered the cylinder every time. I had just finished refabbing the box blade 3pt frame which took me 2 weekends to complete. The hydraulic top link combined with quick hitch is a dream to use. I think I'm gonna try the restrictor orifices before I spend the extra money on a adjustable valve. I do believe a top and tilt kit is in the future for me.

Kodiak45 · Feb 12, 2017

ovrszd · Feb 12, 2017

Yep, I'd try a restrictor in the rod end hose first.

Kodiak45 · Feb 12, 2017

I'm doing my shopping for restrictor orifices and i saw the mini ball valve and was wondering if this could achieve the same purpose as the flow control valve? The restrictors are only $5 each and the flow controls are $50 each and the mini ball valves are $10 each.