Hydraulic top and side link

[dwitt]

My only time is on old very basic tractors. I am getting ready to buy a new tractor for our new property and don't quite understand how they work. I understand the concept. They both take a rear remote and they adjust. Simple. What I don't understand is what if I need one of the remotes for something else.

Do you switch back to factory?

Do you adjust and unhook (assuming there is a check valve)? If so I would think the ports would have to covered to keep them clean back there.

Is there value in having the dealer install them?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

A hydraulic top link is far more useful than a hydraulic side link.

Simply measure your top link collapsed and extended and get a hydraulic ram that has around the same lengths.

Get a ram that has locking valves and hook it up to a selectable control valve (SCV) that you had your dealer install when you purchased your tractor from the dealer (get as many as are offered on your model of tractor).

I have only one video that shows me using a hydraulic side link but a hydraulic top link is far more useful with just about any three point attechment!

 

[Dadnatron]

Take a look at Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com. He builds them himself and is very helpful. His website has a category called 'Tutorials' which might be helpful.

IMO, if you have even minimal mechanical ability, you won't save anything by having a dealer add them, except coverage via a warranty. The cost of a dealer install is likely MUCH HIGHER than what it would cost for Fit Rite to custom make your cylinders and you install them yourself in about an hour or less.

 

[downsizingnow48]

If you do a google search for "tractorbynet top and tilt" you will get many informative threads.

 

[oosik]

In one way or another I use my hydraulic top link for every 3-point implement I own. Its a true God-sent device when considering the adjustment of implements such as - rear blade, box blade, disk harrow, land plane grading scraper and I even use it to rapidly & easily keep my pto chipper level. My hydraulic top link is from Fit Rite Hydraulics - took a little less than half an hour to change over from manual to hydraulic and has worked perfectly for the three years I've owned it.

 

[LD1]

If buying a new tractor, get it with remotes from the dealer. Then add an aftermarket toplink.

3 sets of remotes are good, but it all depends on what you plan to do with the tractor. IF this tractor is a dirt mover, thats gonna see alot of time with a box blade or rear blade....3 sets are nice, toplink, sidelink, and a spare set for a hydraulic blade function, like angle, or hydraulic rippers on a box blade.

Dont get hung up on getting a toplink with check valves. Its all gonna depend on what you use it for, but a toplink with check valves means you cannot use a float function. Which is an option when choosing the rear remote valves at the dealer.

Allowing the toplink to float is a nice feature when using an old bushhog that dont habe a swinging toplink mount to allow the mower to follow the ground, or if you have ral uneven terrain and need more flexibility.

Sidelink is also nice to have float. When grading a road with a crown, or plowing snow; floating the sidelink allows for the blade to follow the contour of the ground instead of digging in on one side.

 

[dwitt]

I am planning on three remotes. My problem is when I'm running a implement that requires 2 remotes I need to free one up. Do I remove the side link and return to stock?

 

[LD1]

I am planning on three remotes. My problem is when I'm running a implement that requires 2 remotes I need to free one up. Do I remove the side link and return to stock?

I guess that would depend on what one is least important to that implement.

If you have a rear blade, that had hydraulic angle and hydraulic offset......I'd probably remove the toplink and return to factory, and keep the sidelink for a tilt function.

If you happen to have a rear blade that has hydraulic angle, AND hydraulic tilt.....then no need for the sidelink also.

Or you could just get 4 sets of remotes and never have to unhook either one.....until you got an implement that requires 3 remotes that is

 

[Ford850]

I had only 2 remotes until recently. When I needed to free one up, I just popped the hoses out for the top or side link and zip tied them out of the way. The cylinders hold just fine. If you need to make an adjustment, pop the hoses back in, adjust, and back out.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You never have to go back to the factory manual unit. Unplug the couplers and the cylinder is rock solid. You do not have to have the check valve to be able to do this. Any cylinder will hold while the couplers are disconnected.

Get 2 of the 3 valves with the float feature. Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

While some people don't think much about having a hydraulic side link, others would prefer the side link over the top link if they could only have one. Get both, you will not be sorry. I personally use my side link 2-3 times more often than my top link, but I do a lot of grading and do not use a std type box blade.

If only 3 rear remotes are available, you can get a diverter set up to get that 4th one that you may need.

My smaller tractor only had a single factory rear remote available and I ended up needing 4, so I added 3 diverters and now have 4. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Good luck with your new tractor.

 

[JRobyn]

I guess my terminology has been wrong - I have always understood that "one remote" meant that you had one remote valve with two connectors. Each connector set (remote) gives a "push" and a "pull" function (more like extend and retract) to the cylinder it's connected to. So I'm installing three remotes, giving me six connectors.

Buying the factory parts to add the VALVES after your initial tractor purchase will be $$$$. Everything I have ever heard says that buying the tractor with them already installed, either at the factory, assembly point, or dealer, is way less expensive. All the factory Kubota parts for 3 "float" valves, hoses, and rear quick connectors for my L4330 were $1800. I bought the top and tilt cylinders from Brian like everybody else on here.

 

[LD1]

What I this thread has led you to believe your terminology is wrong?

It is not. As you have it described is correct.

 

[dwitt]

You never have to go back to the factory manual unit. Unplug the couplers and the cylinder is rock solid. You do not have to have the check valve to be able to do this. Any cylinder will hold while the couplers are disconnected.

Get 2 of the 3 valves with the float feature. Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

While some people don't think much about having a hydraulic side link, others would prefer the side link over the top link if they could only have one. Get both, you will not be sorry. I personally use my side link 2-3 times more often than my top link, but I do a lot of grading and do not use a std type box blade.

If only 3 rear remotes are available, you can get a diverter set up to get that 4th one that you may need.

My smaller tractor only had a single factory rear remote available and I ended up needing 4, so I added 3 diverters and now have 4. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Good luck with your new tractor.

I was going to make all three float. Is there a advantage to having one that's not?

 

[Dadnatron]

I was going to make all three float. Is there a advantage to having one that's not?

Just $ $ $

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I was going to make all three float. Is there a advantage to having one that's not?

Just $$$$ as was just mentioned. A lot of my customers get all float featured valves. Doing a set right now with 5 valves, all with the float feature.

I must have missed some where, but what tractor are you considering getting?

 

[dwitt]

M7060

 

[MtnViewRanch]

M7060

Are you considering or have a hydraulic rear blade? If so, what type?

 

[JRobyn]

I thought I saw several references to each valve having two remotes. Maybe I'm just confused (as usual).

The Kubota pricing for valves for my 4330 was:

"Kubota has two to choose from. An L8303 (Double Acting Valve) and an L8304 (Float Detent Valve). L8303 - $ 233 & L8304 - $ 293"

So not a huge upcharge to with the float/detent valve.

I've been warned by reputable sources that the Kubota-supplied valves MAY not be the highest quality and most leak-free!

 

[dwitt]

Are you considering or have a hydraulic rear blade? If so, what type?

Honestly i have thought about it but not shopped one. I have a lot of grading on about 25-30 a. Of pasture to do. It has a lot of high and low spots in it that aren't major but it's flood irrigation so they need to go. Haven't decided on the best way yet. Almost seam like I should start with a 3 bottom but not if a blade or a box is the way to go.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Honestly i have thought about it but not shopped one. I have a lot of grading on about 25-30 a. Of pasture to do. It has a lot of high and low spots in it that aren't major but it's flood irrigation so they need to go. Haven't decided on the best way yet. Almost seam like I should start with a 3 bottom but not if a blade or a box is the way to go.

For your pasture, a LPGS is what I would use. Not to hard to even things out with one of these. The area shown had dips and mounds 18"-24". Took a few hours to get evened out with the LPGS.

Now for creating roads, hard to beat a good rear blade. But then maintain with the LPGS. :thumbsup: