Hydraulic for PHD ?

[G McCall]

Last year I purchased a new Bush Hog 3pt PHD with hydraulics for my Kubotta M 4700 tractor.

I recently put the PHD together and it is working great but have not figured out how to install the hydraulics. The hydraulic kit came with one large hydraulic line and one smaller hydraulic line. Also, there is a hydraulic plug they gave me but I am not sure what that is far.
Do I not need two large hydraulic lines, one in and one out for pressure lines ? Hope that made sense.

Does any one have pictures of their hydraulics installed on a similar setup of a 3 pt. PHD they could post ?

 

[gregkabob]

I'm just now putting a kit on my PHD. My kit has a single acting cylinder. On mine (from TSC and being installed on a NH TC45DA) one hose plugs into the one of the plugs for the rear remote (this is the one that will pressurize the cyclinder) and the other is the return line that has to go to the hydraulic sump. There will be no pressure applied to it. The fluid will come out of the cylinder when the 3pt is raised and just flow back into the sump.

I suspect from your discription the big line is pressure and the small line is the return. My kit came with two hoses that are the same size so I might have which is which turned around. On the NH TC45DA the dealer showed me where to put the return. There is a plug on the side of the rear remote block that you take out and put a 90 deg fitting on and then the hose. I'll be installing mine this weekend and plan to take pictures and post them to the thread I started on this in the NH Owner and operating thread.

When I saw the cylinder was single acting I was cornfused and had to go to the dealer to find out how the heck to plumb it into the tractor.

I hope this helps a little.

 

[Reg]

Is this a HYDRAULIC post hole digger or is it PTO driven ?
If PTO driven, what hydraulics are you talking about ?
If it is a hydraulic digger it will have a hydraulic motor in it and will need fluid supply and return lines, but hydraulic diggers don't USUALLY go on the 3 PH, they tend to go on the FEL either directly or via a bracket on the side of the bucket.

 

[G McCall]

Reg

My PHD is a Bush Hog 2102 that attaches to my 3PT and is PTO driven.
I have the optional down force kit for the PHD that works off the hydraulic system outlets at the rear of my tractor. The down force kit came in pieces with several hydraulic hoses. The generic instructions that came with the kit and what I can find from Bush Hog website are not clear to me.

I have emailed Bush Hog for answers, with no replys so far. My local dealer has not installed the kit, but they said their parent company branch dealership in the next town will help me. Of course getting all this done with my tractor parked 95 miles away at my farm is another "work in progress". I will get there though with good ole Tractor net.

 

[gregkabob]

G McCall: I looked at the Bush Hog site and the manual for your PHD.

http://www.bushhog.com/ContentFiles/Documents/Manuals/PostHoleDigger.pdf

On Page 9 it shows how the lines should be hooked up and it's just like the instructions for mine. One line comes off the pressure from the tractor to relief valve, a line from the relief valve to the cylinder and then third line from relief valve to Hyd sump/resevoir.

Still don't know for sure if the big line is for the pressure or return. My relief valve mounts right to the cylinder so I don't need that third line and I bet you could do the same thing with yours.

I'm heading to the farm after work to check some traps and if all goes well I'll put it on the tractor and take some pics. If not it will be this weekend.

 

[G McCall]

gregkabob

The dealer only gave me two hoses which was confusing and the part where the instructions say to connect from the relief valve to Hyd sump/resevoir has stumped me. Also, I have two hydraulic outlets at the rear of my tractor but I don't know where the sump/resevoir is.

I am pretty sure I need another hose.

 

[gregkabob]

G McCall:

If you mount the relief valve directly to the cylinder you will not need an extra hose. Mine is designed that way and tonight I'll take some pics of it and post so you can see what I'm talking about. If I was to mount the relief valve in another location (kind of like they show in the brush hog manual) than you do need three hoses.

The dealer can tell you where to tap into the sump for returning the fluid. I also have to outlets on the back of my tractor for my hydro top link that applies power both out and in. All you will do for your (like I will for mine) is use only one of them to apply the down pressure when needed.

When you raise the 3pt it will compress the cylinder and the fliud will flow to the sump.

I'm sure once you see some pics it will make it clearer on what I'm talking about. Hope to have some posted in the am. Still no internet at the farm.

 

[G McCall]

gregkabob,

I am hoping a picture will do the trick, though I may be able to go to my tractor with the kit and your info and try to connect all.

eager to see your pictures..

 

[gregkabob]

G McCall: Here's the pics as promised. The whole job took less than 45 min to put together.

On the NH TC45DA this is where the return line plumbs into the tractor:

A pic of the kit:

Plates and cylinder installed:

Relief valve installed on the cylinder:

Hoses intalled on relief valve (I added the 90 deg fittings as I didn't like the hoses sticking straigh up and out) Top hose is pressure, side is return:

Hoses pluged into tractor, top is pressure, bottom is return:

Hope this helps you out

 

[G McCall]

gregkabob.

It is becoming apparent that it makes a big difference where you mount the relief valve.

Also, I was finally able to get instructions from a kubota dealership. They said I could use my Hydraulic Fill resouvoir for my return line.
They told me to get an adapter to connect to a hose that screws directly into the Fill tube. In other words, remove your fll tube cap and screw the PHD return line into it.

Thanks very much for the pictures. I will print them out and take them to my Farm the next time I go down.

ALSO
For what it is worth........

Bush Hog replied to my email and told me that if I connect my hydraulcs up like their diagram, all will work.............................

I said, "if I understood your "generic" diagram, I would not have requested further explanation from them"

 

[gregkabob]

Glad I could help. Good luck on your install.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Greg, when you use your phd, and need the help of the down pressure cylinder, do you just bump the control for spot down force, or do you leave the control lever pulled so that you have continued down pressure and the pressure valve on the cylinder just bleeds off? Just wondering, I put my down pressure kit on over a year ago and have not used it yet, but need to dig several holes next month. The Land Pride guys say to have the lever pulled and let the valve bleed off. Just wondering what works for you.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

I don't have one of these kits but my Belarus has downforce. When the ground is dry and hard I use a lot of downforce and PTO speed. I dug some holes today and the ground is nice and moist. I just let it float down and it was well under a minute per hole. If I use a lot of downforce in soft ground it will screw in and get stuck.

Brad

 

[G McCall]

Greg, when you use your phd, and need the help of the down pressure cylinder, do you just bump the control for spot down force, or do you leave the control lever pulled so that you have continued down pressure and the pressure valve on the cylinder just bleeds off? Just wondering, I put my down pressure kit on over a year ago and have not used it yet, but need to dig several holes next month. The Land Pride guys say to have the lever pulled and let the valve bleed off. Just wondering what works for you.

Well I havent actually installed the kit yet, and have only dug a couple of holes with the PHD, but I am learning. I apply pressure slowly with the 3 pt. lever at this time. I would assume the down force kit will work with the same method.

 

[gregkabob]

Dug some holes this weekend. I only use the downforce kit when the auger stops digging and needs the help. Once it starts digging again I back off the downforce and let it do it's thing. I did get it to bust into some of the sand rock and then there were a couple of holes that just won't go and all I'll do is grind down the cutters.

Anyone have any recommendations on where to buy rock bits?

 

[G McCall]

Dug some holes this weekend. I only use the downforce kit when the auger stops digging and needs the help. Once it starts digging again I back off the downforce and let it do it's thing. I did get it to bust into some of the sand rock and then there were a couple of holes that just won't go and all I'll do is grind down the cutters.

Anyone have any recommendations on where to buy rock bits?

gregkabob,

would dynamite work ?

If there is a more durable cutter blade available I would like to know also.

 

[gregkabob]

gregkabob,

would dynamite work ?

If there is a more durable cutter blade available I would like to know also.

Dynamite would work but leave too big a hole to have to fill back in. I did a search a while back for rock augers and they had price tags on then in the 600+ range. I'll do some more searching and see if I can find a source at a resonable price. I was thinking the 300 range for a 9" auger. Maybe I'm just dreaming....

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Anyone have any recommendations on where to buy rock bits?

You might be able to modify your auger to accept carbide teeth.

Amazon.com: Pengo Auger Tooth, 40/50 Carbide #134519: Home Improvement
Amazon.com: Pengo Auger Screw Bit 2 1/2-IN Carbide Tipped #132135: Home Improvement

LOWE Auger and Trenching Attachments for skid-steer loaders - quick-attach systems

 

[gregkabob]

You might be able to modify your auger to accept carbide teeth.

Amazon.com: Pengo Auger Tooth, 40/50 Carbide #134519: Home Improvement
Amazon.com: Pengo Auger Screw Bit 2 1/2-IN Carbide Tipped #132135: Home Improvement

LOWE Auger and Trenching Attachments for skid-steer loaders - quick-attach systems

Thanks Brad! Man that's what I like about this site. Ask a question and theres the answer. I'm going to take a close look at the bits and see if I can make them work before buying a complete auger.

I also have Bomb 400 but not the max. It gets a good workout on the farm. Everyone that rides it can't believe it's only a 400.

Thanks again

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Hey - no problem. I was kind of surprised at the price on those, might have to get some myself.

I don't work the Bomber too hard on my little 15ac but it sure is handy.