HYD QUICK ATTACH GAUGE WHEELS

[3RRL]

Hi Larry,
Nope, no cheating on my part. The only thing I did was slide the QA wheels forward while Loretta started the 2nd video. I was hoping she caught that part on the first one but apparently didn't. So you'll have to add another second or two for the total.
Oh, and don't think I have been thinking of other things to use them for. I just need to get or make the other implements now.

David from Jax...
Thanks for watching my back.

Skunk,
I'll bet you get the tiller thing worked out before I do, but I'm gonna think about the front placement a lot.

 

[Kernopelli]

All I can say is...AWESOME! This isn't just lip service either. I watch TBN and several of the other "machine/welding/build " forums on the net and I think your ability to design and your build quality is unsurpassed. I read your posts and they continually take me to my "happy place". Keep doing what your doing because you are quite a source of inspiration and knowledge in my book.

 

[3RRL]

Hi Darryl,
Hey man, thanks for the great compliment. I must confess though that I have a few years experience making stuff. In my former life I was a plastic injection mold maker and designer. So now that I'm semi-retired, I get to play with my tractor stuff. Another confession is that it's a LOT more fun and rewarding, especially because of comments like yours. I particularly like to read how the other guys go about making their stuff. I learn a lot of new things all the time.
Thanks again.

Any thoughts about other uses for this QA wheel set up? I might as well make it as universal as possible. Loretta mentioned making pin-on wheels (like the receivers) for the front of it with a hitch. I could use it as a small trailer and possibly carry a water tank on it for like a sprayer or culvert clearer or something like that? It is sort of modular so I figure there could be alternate uses, not just QA wheels....any ideas?

 

[SkunkWerX]

Rob,

What Larry said!
Using your wheels on a Rake or Grader Blade would be heaven.
As soon as I put the "jack" wheels on my rake it was like night and day!

Your set-up would allow the ultimate in "indexing" greater and greater depths , but, each index might only be an inch or less, with each pass of a Rake or Blade (as well as your Box Blade, but I guess you've figured this one out already).

For a Rear Blade, I picture elongating the main support tube, and/or even making it telescope In and Out, via hydraulics, to make it a serious Grader/Smoother.

 

[MJPetersen]

Rob,

That is just way too cool. I think that it is great. a regular work of art, but useful. how about a video of it actually working the dirt? That is not hard at all to switch from one implement to another, although I see it is NOT light. You get double and triple duty for your money.

I am finishing up a rear blade, mostly for snow, but in the spring it will be for other things too, and I am thinking now of how to attach a set of wheels with a similar function as yours. You have definitely given "food for thought."

Thanks for the extra step of documenting it all for us to enjoy. They do not offer a smiley with the "slack jaw look" but that sure seems appropriate here.

Mike

 

[3RRL]

Skunk,
Along with the tiller, I also have a rake on order. I already have the receivers cut for it and need to figure the best place to mount them once I get it in my hands. I don't have a rear blade since I use my boxblade so much for everything, but I would surely like the advantage of rotating the blade to windrow material away from my gutters better. I might just modify the boxblade instead of acquiring a rear blade.

Mike,
Thanks man,
If you are considering something like this, I would definitely suggest you go with the very first design instead of the self leveling linkage. I could sketch it up real quick like. It's waaay easier and less expensive too. The Hydraulic cylinder and the ability to adjust it from the seat is the key ingredient. Making it QA to fit other implements can be done easily with receivers like I did.

 

[SkunkWerX]

Skunk,
Along with the tiller, I also have a rake on order. I already have the receivers cut for it and need to figure the best place to mount them once I get it in my hands.

Rob, from my experiences with the Gauge wheels, place them approx. about 1 foot from the tip ends. That makes it a more stable platform.

Using these existing wheels (which I would do), you might get a little side-side up/down movement, but, since you have TnT, you can probably adjust for it.

 

[Kernopelli]

I must confess though that I have a few years experience making stuff. In my former life I was a plastic injection mold maker and designer.

I now remember you mentioning that before but had forgotten exactly what industry you were in. In the '80's and early 90's my area of Southern Illinois seemed to be a hot bed for injection mold makers. The industry seemed to "move on" though...not sure why. Several of my friends were mold polishers. I remember they would often talk about the time, technique and stress involved with finishing a $60,000 piece of someone else's cast metal.

 

[Ductape]

Rob, i'm gonna need my hydraulic guage wheel kit made out of aluminum (with polished aluminum wheels,please). After watching that young, fit, dude (whom ever he might be !) wrestle the wheels onto the boxblade..... i have realized that those will never work for and old , outta shape former truck drive like myself !!!!!! Great work once again !

 

[3RRL]

Hey Ductape,
Man, that has to be the best compliment of all! lol ... I haven't been young and fit in about 30 years. But you sure made me feel good!
Thanks.

 

[john_bud]

Rob,

Question: can you set the wheels independantly so the box can be tilted for crowning the road and cleaning the ditches?

jb

Oh, nice job by the way.

 

[MJPetersen]

If you are considering something like this, I would definitely suggest you go with the very first design instead of the self leveling linkage. I could sketch it up real quick like. It's waaay easier and less expensive too.

Rob,
I was was thinking of going the simpler route as I do not have a Rotary Cutter and while I can see the benefits for the RC, it did not seem to me that the parallel linkage would give as much a benefit in a RB set up. I visualize that in a RB you are mostly using the wheels for stability and consistency. The depth will stay at about just where the cutting edge hits the ground. This all from someone who has NEVER used a RB. I have made my RB so that the blade can be dropped and a Rake put in, but I extended the structural member so that I had a mounting place for a set of wheels. Thanks for showing your work so that the rest of us can get creative juices flowing.

Mike

 

[3RRL]

Mike,
I visualize that in a RB you are mostly using the wheels for stability and consistency. The depth will stay at about just where the cutting edge hits the ground.

You are right about that. Actually there is no real benefit from the self leveling feature except it keeps the wheel axles vertical all the time allowing for (perhaps) easier swiveling? It was just something different to do and looks really exotic. It is definitely not a necessity, though. lol ... You didn't expect anything less though, right?

Rob,

Question: can you set the wheels independantly so the box can be tilted for crowning the road and cleaning the ditches?

jb

Oh, nice job by the way.

John, thanks.
No, they are tied together and go up and down together. What I do is lift them completely up (see above working photos) to do all my gutter cutting and road crowning. I use both hydraulic side links to angle the boxblade and of course the hyd top link too when they are up like that. The added weight (in addition to my already heavy boxblade) is an added benefit. I cut some gutters right through some hard DG (decomposed granite) where it used to skip over before. The ones through regular dirt were deep, man.

These wheels used on the boxblade are to get a super smooth surface once I have the desired crown. I experimented and cut only the tops off of some bumps in the road. Although I was able to do that before to some degree by using the 3pt positioning, if the tractor wheels went over a dip or bump it influenced the position of the boxblade. With these wheels, now it doesn't, since they (the wheels) ride over the smoothed out surface.
Another use is if I have to spread a constant thickness layer of dirt, sand or gravel. I can determine the thickness of the layer exactly (up to 4") and keep that position regardless of what the tractor tires are doing. The DPOCV guarantees it.

 

[john_bud]

Gotcha!

So, can I count on you next time there are doubters that when using box blades more weight is better?

I am getting an easement to some land. It will be across three 40 acre parcels to get to 160 acres and the distance is about 1 mile. Many low spots that have to be raised and smoothed. Think I should make some "simple" wheels for my box or just give it a whirl as is? I wouldn't have hesitated before seeing your project, but is the improvement in control so much better that not having them is silly?

jb

 

[3RRL]

I have always been in the heavyweight corner, so you can count on me for that.
I know you have a very heavy duty boxblade as it is, so I would give it a shot without the wheels first. I must have ...what... over 250 hours (probably more) using mine without wheels. It worked just fine for me. I think with your box you can cut a lot of "humps" and fill the low spots, but it will depend on what kind of humps.

If they are gradual, over longer distances, I would rip it all first (the high spots) and then drag with rippers up and the cutting edge down into the dirt say 1" or 2" or so to even out. You might even have to back doze those kind to level out. You'll get pretty good results without wheels. But if you had the wheels, after having ripped and filled, the smoothness of grade would be much better with the wheels than without. That is what I'm finding out on my road now.

Now if you got little humps to cut off and little low spots, the wheels would come in really handy because you can cut the humps without having to rip first...especially with your heavy blade. The cutting edge should take care of those small ones and then dump into the small low spots no problem. And I think the heavier the the boxblade, the better it is for the wheel application and the better results.
So it depends on what you got in front of you.

 

[MJPetersen]

Rob,

Would you say that with the wheels that you can get a level surface more quickly than without. OK without the wheels you can go slowly and keep watch to adjust for the tractor's movements, but with the wheels on, it seems to me, that you would not have to watch the blade quite as closely, so that when you got the level started you could just go. Within reason of course as a faster speed will cause the bade to skate on hard portions more easily.

This seems to me to be a big advantage say for a road where you have longer stretches of relatively straight and flat grade.

So it seems to me,

Mike

 

[PineRidge]

Coming into this thread late but I have to say that this is one of the better projects/ideas that I have seen here. The fact that it can be moved from one implement to another is a real plus.

Once you're satisfied with any refinements that you choose to make you should think about a patent and marketing the gadget.

 

[3RRL]

Coming into this thread late but I have to say that this is one of the better projects/ideas that I have seen here. The fact that it can be moved from one implement to another is a real plus.

Once you're satisfied with any refinements that you choose to make you should think about a patent and marketing the gadget.

Mike,
Thanks for the great compliment.
I'm glad you got a chance to see it. I've seen plenty of stuff you've made too. I like the versatility of moving it from implement to implement with a relatively easy receiver that fits all. And the easy hydraulic positioning of course.

Mike,
This seems to me to be a big advantage say for a road where you have longer stretches of relatively straight and flat grade.
Yeah, you are probably right. I just used my boxblade for so long with out them and got very good results ... had to do with what I had I guess. These wheels should make life a lot easier from now on.

 

[PineRidge]

OK I watched your video this morning and all I could think about all afternoon was my aching back. If there was one thing I might recommend as a change is a 3rd caster wheel about were shown that could be pinned in place just before lowering the rig to park it. That way you could wheel it to the tractor without giving yourself a hernia and once attached lift the implement and remove the 3rd wheel. It would also be possible to pull the pins and pull away from the wheels (don't forget to undo the hydraulics).

 

[SkunkWerX]

OK I watched your video this morning and all I could think about all afternoon was my aching back. If there was one thing I might recommend as a change is a 3rd caster wheel about were shown that could be pinned in place just before lowering the rig to park it. That way you could wheel it to the tractor without giving yourself a hernia and once attached lift the implement and remove the 3rd wheel. It would also be possible to pull the pins and pull away from the wheels (don't forget to undo the hydraulics).

Mike, I am thinking about your suggestion for the 3rd caster and see your point. I think it's the cumbersome nature of the shape of the object. I fear the 3rd caster might add even mor substantial weight? maybe?


How about a set of wheel barrow handles that could be affixed once the wheels are removed, or, affix just prior to removal?

Picture the dogleg pieces rotated 180 so they were more easily grasped without so much stopping and bending?

I know!! On the back of the wheel assembly, fabricate a 3 Pt hitch assembly, so you can attach to them and drive away with them to the next implement! kidding, of course.

Closely spaced FEL forks would make short work of pick up and carry.

We will keep Rob busy in the machine shop for months to come!

PineRidge has sparked a question (apologies in advance if the answer is contained on one of these threads) What is the Overall weight of the wheels assembly? If not known, a guesstimate would do?