The chaff in the fall has to be dealt with every couple times around. I keep the bucket on and it really helps catch a lot of leaves and such to keep it clear the best I can. Once the temp guage gets about halfway obove normal, I'll get off and address the plugging.
hp needed
- Thread starter tobyhd1
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- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
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- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
Look at the right side of the engine. If it's mechanical injection, it will have an injection pump close coupled to the hydraulic pump which is SOP for almost every mechanically injected Kubota. The pump will have injector lines on the top of it as well. Common rail engines don't. Kind of surprised you don't know that as when you change the fuel filter (you do, do that I assume), you have to bleed the air from the injection system afterwards and that entails using the valve on top of the pump to expel the trapped air.
Haven't mowed some of these areas in a few years and most of it was above the loader arms. Can't go any slower than first gear without riding the clutch! If I had time to mow it all twice a year it wouldn't be an issue. Some years am too busy to get at secondary projects. There's a line between doing and over doing. Ill air on the side of caution. Thanks
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Sounds like it's time for a reverse flow cooling fan. I totally eliminated both of mine and replaced both with large diameter 12 volt reversable cooling fans that fit quite nicely in the existing radiator shroud and I removed the power robbing fixed fan assembly as well. I leave mine on suck most of the time and reverse them when the temp gage climbs past center and additionally, the increased air flow really positively impacts the AC condenser efficiency as well as the charge air intercooler.
scootr
Super Member
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- Kubota MX5200 HST, 773 Bobcat, Cat forklift
I run a 7 ft flail with MX5200 no problem. Patience in thick growth makes a big difference and a better cut. 45 hp at the PTO
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No clutch on either of my M's. Both are gear drive with hydraulic shuttles so no clutch at all. Just a damper plate in the bellhousing.
Last time I changed the filter I filled it, put it on and didnt have yo do anything and it started. I'll look at it the next trip up to the barn.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I pull a 12 foot batwing with a 70 hp tractor that's probably around 60 hp at the PTO. I've never had any issues with it. I've mowed stuff that was over my hood that I had to go into a lower gear, but most of my mowing is between 2.3 to 3 mph. I can go faster, but its too rough of a ride.
WM75Guy
Elite Member
I don't think HP is your problem, maybe you are asking too much of the equipment. I mowed my 14 acres with my 6' cutter on my TC40DA which is 33 HP PTO. And it did bog down some in really tall grass and brush. I moved it over to the Workmaster 75 which is 60 HP PTO. I can still bog down if I go too fast. So I normally mow at 2.4 MPH, sometimes I have to slow down to 1.6 MPH. I am looking at a 12' batwing now to be able to mow in 1/2 the time.
Perhaps you need something like Lineman North Florida has for cutting the heavy places, a skid steer with a rough cutter.
Pictures from a skid steer mowing contractor
Perhaps you need something like Lineman North Florida has for cutting the heavy places, a skid steer with a rough cutter.
Pictures from a skid steer mowing contractor
ptsg
Super Member
What are you mowing that requires you to go slower that 1st gear in Low range? Assuming you're in low range of course.