How to slow down hyd cyl travel

[J_J]

Something like this. Flow control, or needle valve. One hose in, one hose out.

Hydraulic Cylinder Components, Products

You can use the smaller hoses also to reduce volume, 1/4, or 1/8 .

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Thanks for all the messages. That adjustable one looks like what I need, since I would know what size fixed orifice to use. When I "visit" the tractor next week, I will see where I could possible mount one. There are two swing cyls, not sure how they are plumbed. I would like to avoid messing with the main multi-section valve and add it in-line some where before it splits to the two cyls. Maybe I will need two of them?

Jay

see my previous post....thatï´s how cyl´s are plumbed....if you want 100% speed ctrl, you must restrict the return....otherwise both gravity and inertia can move the sving....
Use variable restrictor with a checkvalve, one on each side, make sure they let oil into cyl´s unrestricted, and restrict oil on return from cyl´s...

 

[J_J]

I have a Bush Hog 742H backhoe on a NH TC33D tractor hooked to the tractor hydraulics.

Even with the tractor rpms only at about 1100, the side to side backhoe swing it way too fast. Is there some easy way to slow this down? Some flow restrictor or something?

Thanks!
Jay

Hydraulic fluid will only flow as fast as the circuit will allow. This is dictated by the pump volume, valve size, and hose size. Speed of the cylinders are controlled by the valve. You can let fluid flow at 8 GPM, or 1 GPM, but that is all controlled by hand. With what you have now, you have full control, but all the way is to fast for you. What you have to do is restrict the fluid flow as has been suggested. Yes, you can use a flow restrictors in-line, which is like a washer with a small hole in it, and the size of the hole will determine the volume. If you want more precise control, then you install a needle valve to set the flow. One day you might want things to work faster, and you simply adjust the needle valve. Other days, you are on your slow day, and want to be more precise, with no jerking the boom around. You only need one needle valve, a nipple between the main valve and needle valve and an adapter, perhaps a pipe thread to JIC adapter for the hose. The fluid that goes through this valve has to come back out this valve, and therefore only one needle valve is required. Doesn't matter which hose you mount it on. You are simply pushing one cylinder out and pushing the other cylinder in. There is not a whole of gravity force here, just swing the boom to center or left, or right. Check valves are not required in this circuit, you want fluid to flow as free, and as fast as the smallest orfice will allow.

Not only have you limited the speed of the boom swing, but you now have the variable setting of the neede valve, and also the hand lever on the valve itself from zero flow to the max setting you have set on the needle valve. Now, you have full control, and as precise as you want to be.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009071406440520&item=9-5302-38&catname=hydraulic

 

[AKKAMAAN]

You are right J_J.....just put some smaller hoses in there....and also maybe just adjust flow with a wise grip or two on the hoses....I didnt realize that you had a lot of that kind of experiense solving hydraulic problems....I only have 25 years of experience on logging cranes and logging equipment....sry I bothered you all....
Bye

Per A

 

[J_J]

AKKAMAAN,

I did not mean to offend or insult your intelligence, and don't be sorry about bothering people, stand your ground. One could do it your way, or the $5.00 insert with a hole in it. My version is just that, my take on it. If you have something to add to this forum, please do. We all have the right to speak out minds with respect to other individuals. We could probably learn a lot from you, if you are willing to give. I don't mind being wrong, and have been many times. If you think my logic is wrong, kindly tell me, and why.

 

[Egon]

For proper flow control a globe valve is the valve of choice.

 

[JFS2295]

Just looking at my ARPS manual for my hoe and it shows an orifice plate with a 0.062" hole fitting under the adapter unions to the cross over relief valve.

 

[RiZak]

I installed a gas pedal on the BH so I can save money and do precise work when needed. I for sure want to get the fastest move from the unit util I come close the wife's belongings. She don't like scratches from uncontrolable backhoe. By changing the rev of the engine just by moving my right toe I managed to get a lot more job done in a safer way.

I also installed on my backhoe a parking brake unit found in a scrap yard and connected it to the clutch. it work well and come very handy when I can't have the BH to move the tractor. I just leave the tractor engaged in the first gear ( max half MPH). Since there is a latching system on the parking brake lever I just leave the clutch dissengaged.

BTW excuse the frenchmen with poor english writing

 

[Wayne County Hose]

BTW excuse the frenchmen with poor english writing

Your English is better than most born here or that emigrate here.

 

[JFS2295]

......I also installed on my backhoe a parking brake unit found in a scrap yard and connected it to the clutch. it work well and come very handy when I can't have the BH to move the tractor. I just leave the tractor engaged in the first gear ( max half MPH). Since there is a latching system on the parking brake lever I just leave the clutch dissengaged......

I wouldn't necessarily do that.

Just because the clutch is disengaged does not mean that there can't be friction disc wear. First there is not that much clearance between the disc and the pressure plate or flywheel. And with disengagement, there is no certainty that the clutch disc itself will center itself perfectly by sliding on the main shaft splines. A little touching of the stationary disc to the moving flywheel/pressure plate is of no consequence for a short time, but just sitting there while your 'hoeing will cause premature wear-out.