How to mount T&G wood on ceiling...

[dragoneggs]

Glueing T&G is counterproductive IMO. You will be fighting and losing the battle to let the wood expand/contract.

 

[smstonypoint]

Here's a couple pics, one is the ceiling in my auto shop, other is the walls in my wood shop.
Mike Hawkins

Nice!!!!!

Steve

 

[smstonypoint]

smstonypoint - that looks very nice and the white paint job helps with the illumination. OH, MY - I just noticed - is that a solid oak floor. I do like that and the dark stain you used on it. I don't ever remember a shop being so clean - I think that's cleaner than my kitchen.

Thanks for the kind words. Here are before and after photos of the floor. Dad used cull T&G boards left from building the family home and/or other houses that he was remodeling (or building) at the time he was building the outbuilding. I rented a pad-type floor sander to loosen the dust and grime that had accumulated over 70+ years. I didn't use a belt sander because I wanted to maintain some of the floor's patina. After sanding, I applied an exterior Cabot stain.

Somehow I knew Steve's shop would be orderly.

It is amazingly clean. My woodworking shop never looks that tidy or clean, and I've got a dust collection system.

The photo dates from completion of the rehabilitation project. I would have to spend at least a week to get the shop cleaned and organized before taking a new photo.

Steve

 

[JRobyn]

We did around 1500 sqft of T&G knotty pine vaulted ceiling (4 rooms). Directly over joists/insulation/vapor barrier. I used a sloppy bead of Liquid Nails on each joist plus a 2" 16g finishing nail through each tongue/joist. I'm a belt and suspenders kinda guy. And I didn't want that twisty knotty pine moving once it was stuck down! In fact, to be sure that vapor from above was as little of a long-term factor as possible, before hanging, I put a coat of urethane on the upper surface as well as two coats on the lower.

Heed the advice to be excessively detail oriented on layout! I measured from the peak down about every 3 or 4 courses to be sure I stayed level to evenly meet the peak ridge beams. Still missed by 1/2" or so on a couple! When I had a really bowed piece it got discarded. Moderate bows were levered out by driving in a hardened (sheetrock/deck) screw about 1 in into the joists one course high where it was bowed UP, then prying with a "WonderBar" and a scrap piece of T&G against the screw. Decent scaffolding with good locking casters and solid walkboards at about 7ft below your ceiling are WORTH the investment, even for your smaller project!

 

[Richard]

Just got back from dinner.

Got entire ceiling pulled down today and all the screws out. Was 5/8 drywall so I could literally hang on it without breaking down...had to use the 'Wonderbar' to work some of it loose.

Pulled backhoe/loader up to house and tossed pieces into bucket, keeping the kitchen pretty tidy of pieces (dust got all over the place)

One reason the old comes down is she wants the ceiling as high as can be (it's almost 9') Yes, I know 3/4" isn't going to show much.... but it would have been difficult hitting the nails into any joist with accuracy.

She wants to put the T&G up tomorrow. Today about killed me (I'm a bit (medically) anemic so my energy level isn't where it once was or should be)

What killed me (as in confused) taking it down today was there was a mix of nails and screws. When I hired the guy to put my drywall up, I made clear to him that I wanted it all screwed verses nailed. He said no problem.

Now I see that he probably tacked it up with nails and then back-filled with screws. That's my guess anyway since the nails were all at the outer edges and then generally, within an arms reach of the outer edge (basically putting in nails while they were in the area) then went to screws. I was making all sorts of trips up/down the ladder to swap out my screw gun, wonder bar, vice-grips (to pull some finish nails out from the crown molding) and claw to pull the nails.

 

[dragoneggs]

She wants to put the T&G up tomorrow. Today about killed me (I'm a bit (medically) anemic so my energy level isn't where it once was or should be)

What killed me (as in confused) taking it down today was there was a mix of nails and screws. When I hired the guy to put my drywall up, I made clear to him that I wanted it all screwed verses nailed. He said no problem.

Now I see that he probably tacked it up with nails and then back-filled with screws. That's my guess anyway since the nails were all at the outer edges and then generally, within an arms reach of the outer edge (basically putting in nails while they were in the area) then went to screws. I was making all sorts of trips up/down the ladder to swap out my screw gun, wonder bar, vice-grips (to pull some finish nails out from the crown molding) and claw to pull the nails.

Sounds like you made some serious progress! I can see how a mix of nails and screws would drive you nuts. Better hang the T&G tomorrow... if you are like me the second day after I am the sorest sometimes. If you can power through tomorrow you can set back and enjoy your accomplishment and rest your tired muscles.

 

[Tjdux]

Ok, thanks folks!!

We do have a finish nailer already (and the nails as a matter of fact)

We also felt the boards should be finished first so they're already painted and cut to near length. Will cut to final length when they go up.

Ok, here's question number 2...

We already have about six can lights. She's going to move them about 6-10 inches (if there is enough wire up there)

I'm guessing that each board will need to be cut out as it's installed, going around the can light verses using a hole saw afterwards, correct?

When we've put the drywall up, I cut a hole 'near' the size of the can opening and used a rasp to finalize it, making it as snug a fit as I could.

I don't have that luxury with the boards..... I DO have a router but it's a monster and wouldn't be very controllable overhead like that (I have thought about mounting it on my router table and using it to (what's the word) "free hand" the cutout instead of using a jig saw)

I'd hold and move the board on top of the table rather than try to hold & control the router (don't recall the model number but it's the big porter cable, 2 1/2 hp or maybe as much as 3 1/2... I forget and am not a big wood worker to know those specifics!)

Do your lights mount to the ceiling joists or into the ceiling itself? A good rasp can eat wood plenty fast so as long as you're close it can be done.

If the lights mount to the celing material or can be joist mointed through the hole then a hole saw on a drill should be fine. Just dont miss and try to drill a big hole in a ceiling joist...

Also if wire is too short you can always install boxes and extensions. Get some 2 hole wagnut push type connectors and it will go fast.

 

[mpham]

Put this up by myself 15 or 16 years ago. Used all 16 foot boards. Used a jig saw to rough out the holes for the lights. Roto zip bit cleaned them up with a jig I made. Still looks great after all this time. Poly on both sides before install and one finish nail into the joist every 16 inches.

 

[PILOON]

Done my share of T & G ceilings always used 16 g nail gun. So far none ever came lose.
For the POT lights you can get hole saws up to 6" so that is no problem to do and with the laser levels today accurate locating is easy.

I would however suggest pre staining (or painting) just in case there is some shrinkage otherwise any gaps will show, or at minimum wipe stain on the tongue portion.
Also it is much easier to stain/paint with your boards on a pair of saw horses that on the ceiling. Careful toe nailing the boards will not leave any marks or scars.