Western
Super Member
Good point!, but if I'm in an earthquake I have other problems.
Now if I lived in California, I'd have my truck bolted to the floor.
How to Install a 60g Compressor?
- Thread starter 9973720wb19
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Good point!, but if I'm in an earthquake I have other problems.
Now if I lived in California, I'd have my truck bolted to the floor.
RobertBrown
Veteran Member
If you are planning to hard pipe any connections from the compressor and you don't want to bolt it then I would use a fexible connection between the tank and the pipe. I could see where you might have problems or leaks otherwise.
whistlepig
Elite Member
Mine is bolted to the concrete floor. It took me about thirty minutes to do this.
Markcuda
Veteran Member
Please, do this to your drain, I did this and I'm glad I did.
ultrarunner
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At the plant we don't have a choice... everything has to meet seismic requirements.
Sometimes the manufacturer will even spec the fastener... such as a Hilti. If we don't follow manufacturer's installation instructions we need to have an engineer sign-off and the State comes out on a regular schedule to inspect all pressure vessels.
Grainger and others sell vibration isolators for compressors...
An option you might find useful is an automatic drain valve... I've installed several and they work well...
Sometimes the manufacturer will even spec the fastener... such as a Hilti. If we don't follow manufacturer's installation instructions we need to have an engineer sign-off and the State comes out on a regular schedule to inspect all pressure vessels.
Grainger and others sell vibration isolators for compressors...
An option you might find useful is an automatic drain valve... I've installed several and they work well...
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I left my 80 gal. Ingersol Rand compressor on the pallet that it came on. I also put the drain tube out the side of the bottom of the tank with a ball valve on it to make it easier to drain. I don't run it every day but it has stayed put where I set it. I did put some extra blocking between the two layers of boards on the pallet to make it more solid, maybe not necessary but I did it anyway, makes me feel better cause it can't vibrate as much that was my thought at the time. I would like to sometime in the future put in solid piping for it but as the other poster said I would use a flexible hose from the tank to the pipe.
dstig1
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- Leaving it on the pallet is fine. I've done it with 2 compressors with no movement or issues. I trimmed my latest pallet down with a sawzall so it wasn't so large.
- Extend the drain like Markcuda shows with extension/valve/turndown elbow. I've done the same thing. Make sure the pipe you use is rated enough for the full system pressure, but that shouldn't be hard to find as it should be under 200psi.
- IF you bolt it to the floor, you should not rigidly mount it. The tank will expand and contract as you add pressure or drain it down, and if the feet are too rigidly attached, you can stress the tank where the feet mount. Rubber pads or mounts are a good idea for both expansion allowance and vibration isolation. Manufacturer may require it in the install instructions. You can also do this by screwing one down tight (over rubber pad) and leaving the other two slightly loose with nylock nuts, for example.
- Always use a short section of flex hose from the compressor to hard piping. Makes install/maintenance a billion times easier and isolates vibration from your hard piping.
- Run horiz piping on a slight down slope with a drain leg/valve at the far end to trap moisture. Where you want to tap into the line for air hoses, tap into the top of the pipe and point them UP initially so that condensed moisture does not run down into your hoses and tools.
- Soldered copper ($$) or iron pipe work fine. PVC is a major safety hazard when used for compressed air no matter what anyone tries to tell you.
Those are the key things that are top of mind.
- Extend the drain like Markcuda shows with extension/valve/turndown elbow. I've done the same thing. Make sure the pipe you use is rated enough for the full system pressure, but that shouldn't be hard to find as it should be under 200psi.
- IF you bolt it to the floor, you should not rigidly mount it. The tank will expand and contract as you add pressure or drain it down, and if the feet are too rigidly attached, you can stress the tank where the feet mount. Rubber pads or mounts are a good idea for both expansion allowance and vibration isolation. Manufacturer may require it in the install instructions. You can also do this by screwing one down tight (over rubber pad) and leaving the other two slightly loose with nylock nuts, for example.
- Always use a short section of flex hose from the compressor to hard piping. Makes install/maintenance a billion times easier and isolates vibration from your hard piping.
- Run horiz piping on a slight down slope with a drain leg/valve at the far end to trap moisture. Where you want to tap into the line for air hoses, tap into the top of the pipe and point them UP initially so that condensed moisture does not run down into your hoses and tools.
- Soldered copper ($$) or iron pipe work fine. PVC is a major safety hazard when used for compressed air no matter what anyone tries to tell you.
Those are the key things that are top of mind.
OP
9973720wb19
Platinum Member
Many thanks for all the ideas. Really did not want to put holes in the floor because I it's ugly and I may want to move the compressor to a different spot in the future. I think I'll just leave it on the pallet its shipped with and perhaps one of those large hard rubber mats from TSC under the pallet. Also, thinking I may (depending on what the shipping pallet looks like) build a better wooden base or set more blocking in the shipping pallet. And of course, make a more accessible drain. thanks again for all of the ideas...
Cat_Driver
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I got the same one and just left it on the small wooden pallet that came with it. Been running two years now no problems.
Samandothers
Gold Member
Mine is sitting on vibration pads and has not moved. i used flex conduit for eletrical and hydraulic hose to run air to the wall where the regulator is located. It has worked fine.
