How often to grease?

[Roady]

I'm sure this topic has been covered but I could not find a exact answer with a search.

I'm a big fan of greasing grease fittings. My thought has always been the more grease I can pump in a fitting, the less metal to metal contact and longer the life of the component. The new tractor I purchased recommends that everything should be greased every ten hours of use. My tractor has 48 fittings so you can imagine the amount of grease I go though. I grease until I see a tiny bit seeping from the joint. The problem is this creates a lot of external grease escaping from the joints and around the pivot points. I was told that too much grease is really bad as it collects a ton of dirt particles that seep into the joint and cause damage.

So my question is can dirt enter this way and if so, where is that fine line between greasing too little and too much.

Thanks for any advice

Roady

 

[Soundguy]

I pretty much grease after each use... I just give a shot or two to each fitting. Fittings where seals are present.. I'm carefull not to over grease.. as this can push the seals out.

If I see a huge slug of grease push out a joint, I wipe it with the old rag i carry with me, that i use to swab the fitting before i grease it. I also re-fuel after each use. That way the tank isn't empty and collecting moist air.. and it is all ready to use when i hop on it the next time.

soundguy

 

[dirt clod]

In a open joint thats not sealed I like to pump enough so that I see new grease coming out. My thoughts are that it flushes out the old dirty grease.

 

[DieselPower]

How often to grease depends greatly on operating conditions and the type of grease used. The harder it is used the more frequently it should be greased. Hard use tends to knock your tractor around and press out more grease then light use.

The type of grease can also greatly effect the needed frequency of regreasing. A grease that bleeds its oil to fast and drys out needs to be replenished more often. Greases that are adhesive and cohesive also tend to stay in their intended location longer than those that are not. The adhesive qualities of a grease help it stick to the lubricated part and the cohesive nature is how well it sticks to itself. If the grease stays put longer it does not need to be replenished as often.

Some grease on the outside of moving parts is really not a bad thing. In conditions where there is a lot of dirt/dust contamination it actually tends to form a kind of extra barrier against the dirt/dust entering the lubricated point. There is a thing as to much though. When you start to see large globs of grease it's time to wipe it down. No use having a huge dust magnet at each lubricated point.

Another thing to consider is water contamination. Depending on how waterproof your grease is it can effect relubrication frequency. If you use your tractor in the rain or wet locations it's best to lubricate a little more frequently to help purge out any water.

 

[saparks10]

How often to grease depends greatly on operating conditions and the type of grease used. The harder it is used the more frequently it should be greased. Hard use tends to knock your tractor around and press out more grease then light use.

The type of grease can also greatly effect the needed frequency of regreasing. A grease that bleeds its oil to fast and drys out needs to be replenished more often. Greases that are adhesive and cohesive also tend to stay in their intended location longer than those that are not. The adhesive qualities of a grease help it stick to the lubricated part and the cohesive nature is how well it sticks to itself. If the grease stays put longer it does not need to be replenished as often.

Some grease on the outside of moving parts is really not a bad thing. In conditions where there is a lot of dirt/dust contamination it actually tends to form a kind of extra barrier against the dirt/dust entering the lubricated point. There is a thing as to much though. When you start to see large globs of grease it's time to wipe it down. No use having a huge dust magnet at each lubricated point.

Another thing to consider is water contamination. Depending on how waterproof your grease is it can effect relubrication frequency. If you use your tractor in the rain or wet locations it's best to lubricate a little more frequently to help purge out any water.

I agree with DP. There are generally 4 things to take into consideration when choosing a grease and how often to grease. L.E.T.S. Load, Environment, Temperature, Speed. Everybody knows that a grease with moly, teflon, phosphorous, etc. is good to have for its lubrication qualities, but if the grease does not stay where it is intended then its almost worthless. I suggest buying a grease with the obove mentioned friction reducers but also one with an extreme tackifier to help keep the grease where it belongs and to keep your equipment happy, and your wallet. I also agree with DP on having a little grease on the fitting, just that much more of a barrier.

 

[LoneCowboy]

I use moly greases and once that really gets in there, it's lubed for life. So, for the first 100 hours or so I usually lube about once very 10 hours. AFter that about every 25 hours. If I'm doing a lot of FEL work, I'll lube that every day (since it's down in the dirt), but that's about it. If I'm doing snow removal work I'll do it after every storm. (water + steel = bad)

49 grease joints? that's ridiculous
MF 1433 has maybe 25
the TC has about the same (mostly all on the FEL)
and the TN has a few less.

and almost all those joints are on the FEL, take that off and it's less than 10 joints.

 

[Builder]

49 grease joints is ridiculous. I don't have than many on my Case X-hoe.

An old timer I really trust once told me to use the "listen" technique for greasing. Turn off the engine & radio and listen for a light crackling sound. Soon as you hear it, you've pumped enough grease. I see more overgreasing than I like on most machines.

 

[curly]

4 I see more overgreasing than I like on most machines.

Can that hurt it?

 

[D7E]

Most of our big stuff has intervals from 10-500 hours but you will find most people like myself will do 3-4 shots every day regardless of reccomended 20 shots once a week or whatever ,Over greasing only really applies to a bearing or CV joint ,Most people grease till you hear em "crack" but really thats too much you are already pushing the seal, on pivots and pins you cant grease too much ,Just go look at a Dozer or excavator they will have grease dripping off them "Too much is better than not enough" .
Over-greasing is over stated because if you have a big pile of grease hanging on a pivot it does collect dust but kinda forms a seal of it's own so if it's gone this far keep it up and do it too often ?
Excavators and big tractors spend their whole lives being neglected and over greased and still manage 15'000 hr life spans ? It depends on what you are greasing ...It don't work on a combine with high speed spinning bearings ,I don't know any one who uses other than a multi purpose ,I like castrol but thats my breeding "It's grease colour" All these blue ,red and black ? We ran some hightemps and high pressures in some machines and found no extended life worth mentioning .

 

[chrisjbell]

Can that hurt it?

Better to put too much grease on something than too little.

There is one thing I haven't seen mentioned in the thread to pay attention to - when greasing, *especially* when using a pnuematic grease gun you can blow seals out. That might even be worse than not putting in grease in some cases. The "crack" sound is grease escaping from a seal, and that is all good unless it is the sound of a seal letting go...

 

[D7E]

Better to put too much grease on something than too little.

There is one thing I haven't seen mentioned in the thread to pay attention to - when greasing, *especially* when using a pnuematic grease gun you can blow seals out. That might even be worse than not putting in grease in some cases. The "crack" sound is grease escaping from a seal, and that is all good unless it is the sound of a seal letting go...

I just said that ?

 

[curly]

I just said that ?

Well, I've never heard a crack...just greased til I saw fresh stuff coming out. I've generally used a manual grease gun but I now have an air gun.

 

[Builder]

Can that hurt it?

It probably won't hurt the machine itself unless you blow out a seal.

Although I always thought it attracts a lot of dirt to the area, wastes grease and leaves blobs of grease on your garage floor, driveway or customer's property and looks generally like you're a sloppy mechanic. If you're wiping grease off a joint, then that means you didn't want it there in the first place, so why pump grease into a joint only to wipe it off and throw it away?

 

[curly]

It probably won't hurt the machine itself unless you blow out a seal.

Although I always thought it attracts a lot of dirt to the area, wastes grease and leaves blobs of grease on your garage floor, driveway or customer's property and looks generally like you're a sloppy mechanic. If you're wiping grease off a joint, then that means you didn't want it there in the first place, so why pump grease into a joint only to wipe it off and throw it away?

Well actually, I thought he meant greasing to often...not putting to much in there (I know, I'm not very mechanical ). But speaking of that, aside from hearing a crack, if you don't see some clean coming out, how ya gonna know ya got the dirty outta there? Seems like ya gotta put a little too much in there to know ya done good...thus ya either wipe it off, or like some other's have said...let it stay there to form a barrier.

 

[saparks10]

Well actually, I thought he meant greasing to often...not putting to much in there (I know, I'm not very mechanical ). But speaking of that, aside from hearing a crack, if you don't see some clean coming out, how ya gonna know ya got the dirty outta there? Seems like ya gotta put a little too much in there to know ya done good...thus ya either wipe it off, or like some other's have said...let it stay there to form a barrier.

There is no one answer for how often to grease. How often and how much depends on the application (load, environment, temperature, speed) I will say that over greasing is one of the most common reasons for bearring failure. Bearrings simply need friction to roll. When to much grease is used the bearring cannot role and sliding friction happens, versus the rolling friction. Anyone ever seen bearrings with flat spots on them?

 

[curly]

There is no one answer for how often to grease. How often and how much depends on the application (load, environment, temperature, speed) I will say that over greasing is one of the most common reasons for bearring failure. Bearrings simply need friction to roll. When to much grease is used the bearring cannot role and sliding friction happens, versus the rolling friction. Anyone ever seen bearrings with flat spots on them?

Wow, never knew that, never even thought about that

 

[Z-Michigan]

There is no one answer for how often to grease. How often and how much depends on the application (load, environment, temperature, speed) I will say that over greasing is one of the most common reasons for bearring failure. Bearrings simply need friction to roll. When to much grease is used the bearring cannot role and sliding friction happens, versus the rolling friction. Anyone ever seen bearrings with flat spots on them?

This doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I can see how a too-slippery lubricant might prevent roller or ball bearings from rolling, but frankly, if it's that slippery than what damage will be done by sliding without rolling? Also, most grease points on my tractor are in areas with plain bearings and not roller or ball bearings. There's nothing to roll in a plain bearing, and too much friction creates a spun bearing = instant pricey repair.

 

[saparks10]

This doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I can see how a too-slippery lubricant might prevent roller or ball bearings from rolling, but frankly, if it's that slippery than what damage will be done by sliding without rolling? Also, most grease points on my tractor are in areas with plain bearings and not roller or ball bearings. There's nothing to roll in a plain bearing, and too much friction creates a spun bearing = instant pricey repair.

Because the load is meant to be distributed over the ball as it rolls, if it is not rolling then the load is placed on one point, which eventually will flatten out.

 

[curly]

This doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I can see how a too-slippery lubricant might prevent roller or ball bearings from rolling, but frankly, if it's that slippery than what damage will be done by sliding without rolling? Also, most grease points on my tractor are in areas with plain bearings and not roller or ball bearings. There's nothing to roll in a plain bearing, and too much friction creates a spun bearing = instant pricey repair.

Well hey, that makes sense too.

(I'm being tossed back and forth by the waves, and blown here and there by every wind of teaching and by the cunning and craftiness of men in their deceitful scheming. )

 

[saparks10]

This doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I can see how a too-slippery lubricant might prevent roller or ball bearings from rolling, but frankly, if it's that slippery than what damage will be done by sliding without rolling? Also, most grease points on my tractor are in areas with plain bearings and not roller or ball bearings. There's nothing to roll in a plain bearing, and too much friction creates a spun bearing = instant pricey repair.

Z, you are correct on the plain bearrings part. Sliding friction is already taking place, therefore there is no transition to be made from rolling to sliding.