How much repair do the old timers require?

[keegs]

That MF135 diesel has a basic gear drive tranny 6F/2R with multipower-a hydraulic setup that gives you two more ranges for a total of 12F/4R.

Roundish gear boxes? Are you referring to the bull gears that are used on the rear axles of some high crop tractors--like the 1951 Minneapolis Moline BF tractor that I'm restoring now?

View attachment 227452View attachment 227453View attachment 227454

If so, the answer is no--my 135 is a standard field tractor without bull gears like a high crop. No modifications were made to the rear axle. The original owner replaced the 28" dia rims that you generally find on the rears of field tractors with 16" dia rims carrying Goodrich 6-ply 18.4-16A rubber. He used shortened spindles on the front axle to keep the tractor level. He used it mainly for mowing and discing his olive orchard, essentially converting a field tractor into a low-squat, high-floatation orchard tractor. BTW--this is a simple way to modify a field tractor for mowing steep slopes. The 18" wide rears are used on a variety of big ag equipment (swathers, combines, etc) and are readily available at places that sell ag tires, like Les Schwab out here on the West Coast.

Interesting points about gaining more stability for work on sloping ground. Thanks.

 

[brin]

That's in the plan. I've been working with a retired farmer/logger on projects around the place who I think doesn't own anything built prior to the mid-sixties. From what I've gathered from conversations, he knows his way around farm equipment.

Oh then you are fine...you will find yourself a great tractor, just be patient for the right one and when it surfaces go get it...don't delay or someone will beat you to it. I bought several over the years and I would litterally stop what I was doing as soon as I heard about or read and ad about it and go see it..even then sometimes others beat me to it...and some were wasted trips to look at junk...but that is part of the process...You will get a good one with your retired friend helping you with his experience...:thumbsup:

 

[slowzuki]

Well maintained old tractors are reliable. Keep water out of the fuel tank and maintain them and they go a long time. Battery dead? Roll start it. Don't need any of the electrics on most oldies.

I've got newish tractors myself to have nice cabs but not afraid of older stuff. Grew up on it. Hours aren't a big issue and don't be fooled by fresh paint. Get someone to check it out well.

 

[keegs]

Oh then you are fine...you will find yourself a great tractor, just be patient for the right one and when it surfaces go get it...don't delay or someone will beat you to it. I bought several over the years and I would litterally stop what I was doing as soon as I heard about or read and ad about it and go see it..even then sometimes others beat me to it...and some were wasted trips to look at junk...but that is part of the process...You will get a good one with your retired friend helping you with his experience...:thumbsup:

Yeah...sometimes the hunt can be allot of fun.

 

[Soundguy]

Oh then you are fine...you will find yourself a great tractor, just be patient for the right one and when it surfaces go get it...don't delay or someone will beat you to it. I bought several over the years and I would litterally stop what I was doing as soon as I heard about or read and ad about it and go see it..even then sometimes others beat me to it...and some were wasted trips to look at junk...but that is part of the process...You will get a good one with your retired friend helping you with his experience...:thumbsup:

Excelent advice right there!

To the OP.. this is good info.

don't get into a rush.. look around.. I can tell you that unless you get real lucky, you will likely look at a few trctors before you see one that fits your needs.

when you do see that one.. get it.

I can't tell you how many times I stopped and looked at a great deal and said..wow.. i'll come get that this weekend, only to have it gone the next day.

it's to the point now that when i see something i like.. if I can I put a down payment on it or some other means to hold it, and if possible.. just buy it then and go get a trailer and lunch just to get it into my posession.. etc.

soundguy

 

[Stargazer]

Hi: My only comment would be to avoid older tricycle front ends ie get wide fronts for slopes pr

 

[flusher]

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

And I've heard that BRAKE REPLACEMENT can be a hassle on some models, something HST owners probably wouldn't think about, not having to use them much (or at all?)?

I hope my questions are helpful to the OP--and I hope I was clear enough that someone can answer them! LOL

My Hoe

Brake replacement hassle? Yes and no. It's not that bad. Here are the brakes on that MM BF tractor (the yellow and red one). They're under the red shop towels in the photos. You can do a complete brake job without removing the rear wheels. During the restoration, I did the brakes on the workbench after I removed the rear axles--easier that way.



My 1945 Oliver 60 Row Crop has a different arrangement but the brakes can still be replaced without removing the rear wheels. The brakes are attached to the shaft in the differential that carries the small gears that drive the bull gears on the rear axles. You just remove those round covers ahead of the rear axles and you can do the brake job sitting on your butt.



I bought that Ollie last Jan, it runs fine, has a parade ready paint job and only cost $2250. However, the right brake lining was completely gone and the left lining was soaked with gear oil. Had to replace the two shaft seals behind the drums and reline the brake bands. The right drum was pretty scored so I went hunting for a replacement. No luck from the usual suppliers but I found one on eBay for $20 plus shipping that turned out to be OK. The drums don't have to be perfect because Ollie has been retired to parade duty.

Another challenge in restoring old tractors is tools--most tractors requires a few unique tools that normally a dealer would have. If the manufacturer/dealer network is out of existence like MM and Oliver, you have to rely on eBay, craigslist, etc. or make the tool yourself. In the case of the Oliver 60's brakes, there's a tool to remove that big hex nut that holds the drum to the axle. Luckily, the head of a 3/4" hex bolt fits the socket in that nut nearly perfectly, so fired up the welder and made a tool. It's in the center of this photo. Put the transmission in low, chock the rear wheels, use the pipe cheater, some muscle and, presto, those two nuts are loose.

 

[keegs]

Hi: My only comment would be to avoid older tricycle front ends ie get wide fronts for slopes pr

Thanks...I'm a little concerned about running into trouble around the pond area where there's a grade.

 

[TripleR]

Thanks...I'm a little concerned about running into trouble around the pond area where there's a grade.

There are a couple of good threads about operating on slopes. I am in the process of mowing on slopes and around ponds this week with our M8540 and no matter how many times I do, it is always a bit scary at times.

 

[jenkinsph]

Interesting that tricyles fronts were brought up, I wouldn't mind having a good one for some uses, they turn on a dime.:thumbsup:

 

[dntfxr]

I've enjoyed reading this thread. I've been looking at newer tractors, but I've broadened my search to older machines too. I found a Deere 1030 locally but it is more tractor than I need, big machine and I bet thirsty! Now I'm considering a MF 135 diesel that has been overhauled and has new clutch for 3700$. It also has a 6'disc that comes with it too. Eventually I'll want a tractor with a loader but this could be my dedicated mowing rig with a 6' shredder. A lot smaller investment than a new machine too...

 

[keegs]

Like FWJ says, older does not mean more work needed and more often than not, older tractors will require a lot less work to keep going. The reason is: before computer-aided design and such, machines tended to be way overbuilt and as a result, they last a lot longer than the new stuff. Also, the lemons of that era have mostly found thier way to the scrapyard by now. New tractors are basically designed to last until the warranty runs out, then every part should fail simultaneously, if the designer did his job right. Just enough material is used to carry the loads, with no extra allowance for wear and corrosion. For the last 25 years, I have ran a 1951 Ford 8n that needed a valve job when I got it (they were not designed for unleaded gas), but I have not touched it in the last 24 years, other than oil changes. All of the tractors I have bought since that one, including one that is reatively modern, have required more work in that time period. The downside of the old ones is they dont have all the modern conveniences, and tend to use significantly more fuel, especially if gas powered. Also, it is tough to do loader work without 4wd, which is tough to find on old tractors. I would be a lot more scared of buying a new tractor than an old one.

PTO power specs on the 8n are in the 24hp range. In your opinion would I need something more powerful to mow 60 acres?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

PTO power specs on the 8n are in the 24hp range. In your opinion would I need something more powerful to mow 60 acres?

You COULD mow 60 acres with an N Ford, but you better have PLENTY of spare time on your hands. Gonna be a long and slow process. I'm a big fan of older tractors, and I don't mind spending a bit of time with a smaller tractor to get the job done, but there's a limit to how far I'll go with that plan.

I'd want (at a minimum) 45/50hp, maybe even 60hp....Something that would handle a 6' to 8' mower (again, at a minimum) and be able to mow at a brisk pace on the level ground. Or else....your summers will be spent mowing....and mowing....and mowing....

My home is on 45 acres. Some of that is woods and a creek bed. I probably mow somewhere around 23/24 acres. Some hill sides, a good bit of fence line, some rough ground, and a bit of open fields. I do that with a 47hp tractor/6' mower. I spend about 11 to 12 hours total each time I mow. And that's enough....considering I mow it every 10 to 12 days during the summer. (A couple acres around the house gets mowed every 4 or 5 days) And I do have the "back up plan" of having seven 15' bat wing mowing rigs if I get way behind...!!! (I'm in the commercial mowing business)

Go too small and it's easy to get behind. Then you start rushing to get caught up. THat leads to accidents and damaged equipment. Use equipment that's big enough to handle the job at a leisurely pace, take your time and be safe.

Don't go too small. SLIGHTLY too big is FAR better than too small....BTDT, left the little tractor parked....

 

[Soundguy]

Interesting that tricyles fronts were brought up, I wouldn't mind having a good one for some uses, they turn on a dime.:thumbsup:

I love my trikes! love to mow with them.. and yes.. they turn on a dime and can usually give you change..

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

PTO power specs on the 8n are in the 24hp range. In your opinion would I need something more powerful to mow 60 acres?

27 actually.. but mega ditto what FWJ said.

forget the N for 60ac of mowing. go 45hp minimum and 6' mower minimum.

I wouldn't want to mow on a continous basis with any ford under an 8/9 XX though a 3000+ would be ok.

for light 10-15 ac or less a 35 hp ford int he 00/01 series and a 5 or 6' mower would be ok..

I'm a ford guy and I'll tell you straight up.

don't buy a 9-2-8n for your mowing.

don't buy a NAA for your mowing.

I would not reccomend a 541,6xx,7xx or 2000 3 or 4 cyl for your mowing.. though you could pull a 6' mower with them.

Minimum i would reccomend would the a 8/9xx, 4000 3 or 4 cyl. if going 1965+ get a diesel.. if 1964 and down, get a gasser...

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

For the last 25 years, I have ran a 1951 Ford 8n that needed a valve job when I got it (they were not designed for unleaded gas),

Just a note.. your machine may have needed a valve job.. but as for the valve seats / unleaded gas.. all 9n/8n left the factory with hardened intake and exhaust valve seats.

all 2n left the factory with hardened exhaust valve seats, wartime 2n did not have hardened intake seats.

soundguy

 

[wolc123]

The 1951 Ford 8n is my favorite tractor of all time, but I also would not recommend one for mowing 60 acres. The 8n really excells on drawbar work, particularly tasks like plowing. The biggest problem with mowing is the lack of live hydraulics. The lack of live PTO is no problem at all as long as you run a over-running coupler. For PTO work, I would tend to steer clear of the older Fords, and look instead at IH or Allis Chalmers. Most surviving models from the late 40's thru 60's by either of these brands are almost bulletproof. Personally, I dont think the JD's of that era are worth the extra money they fetch. Like SG, I also like my trike (1942 Allis Chalmers C). There is nothing like a trike in the woods, with the narrow front providing great forward visibility, minimal compaction, and the steering brakes enabling excellent manuverability. I just finished up hauling the logs for 2012/2013 winter firewood up from the woods with mine this past Sunday. No way would I have rather done that job with a modern 4wd, or any wide-front tractor for that matter. I didnt hardly leave a mark in my fragile woodlands with that light-footed, trike, AC C. I probably would not be as fond of the trikes as I am if there were any hills on my farm however, luckily there is not. I dont run any foreign power, which limits me to JD on new tractors these days. One has a lot more choices in American power on old iron however.

 

[keegs]

Thanks all.

 

[Stargazer]

Please note I was talking about trikes on slopes, Still think wide on hills/slopes better ymmv I keep the bx23 in 4 wheel drive on slopes. As some people point out right tool for job everything is NOT a nail

PR

 

[wolc123]

I am just thankfull to have owned and operated a trike while I still could. The millions of practicing laywers in this country now will ensure that such machines are not going to be made again for the forseable future. They are also great for cultivating, having the ability of turning right back for the next rows without a wide swing around the headland. Also for mowing with a mid-mount, essentially a zero turn at least a half-century before those little go-cart types came into popularity.