how does older carb work? mine won't stay running.

[canucklehead]

one more thing. there is an adjustment screw for the accelerator pump. not sure how/where to adjust it to. the more you turn the screw out, the more travel there is for the piston. turn it in more and the piston is pushed down lower.

just ran the tractor and it runs now. seems like a bit of a delay when I move throttle lever until I hear it rev up. so would I turn it in or out more?

side note: tractor would not shift into gear without grinding (with clutch pushed in). I started it in gear and now it seems to shift properly. not sure what that was all about. I thought it was an air lock in hydraulics so I moved my hydraulic lever back and forth trying to burp air. It caused an old metal hydraulic line to rupture.

 

[NormL]

one more thing. there is an adjustment screw for the accelerator pump. not sure how/where to adjust it to. the more you turn the screw out, the more travel there is for the piston. turn it in more and the piston is pushed down lower.

just ran the tractor and it runs now. seems like a bit of a delay when I move throttle lever until I hear it rev up. so would I turn it in or out more?

side note: tractor would not shift into gear without grinding (with clutch pushed in). I started it in gear and now it seems to shift properly. not sure what that was all about. I thought it was an air lock in hydraulics so I moved my hydraulic lever back and forth trying to burp air. It caused an old metal hydraulic line to rupture.

Taking a wild guess I'd say more travel - more gas. If the lag time till it revs is too much, then give it a bit more travel.

Could the clutch have been stuck to the flywheel surface from sitting a long time? And that ruptured hard line may indicate the need to check any other hydraulic lines for weaknesses.

 

[canucklehead]

thanks NormL. I backed out the screw 1 turn before, so I'll back it out a bit further. more travel = more pump action = more fuel makes sense to me.

not sure, maybe sitting 1-2 years could make clutch stick to flywheel. I've never heard that but it's possible. I thought my shifting/grinding attempts might have busted it loose, but who knows.

the line that ruptured feeds my bucket roll cylinder. One of the 2 cylinders doesn't move. Not sure if line is plugged or if cylinder is shot. I've had 2 other rubber hoses burst, one in my face when i tightened a few loose fittings a few years back. It's hard to tell when a line will go, expecially the hard lines.

my neighbour is a very smart hydraulics guy and owned a shop that converted equipment fo rlogging industry. He told me to take apart every cylinder, clean it out and flush all my lines with solvent. While I am sure he is technically correct, i also know there's not a chance that job will get done by me. I'm also not a hydraulics pro.

 

[Den1952]

glad to hear you got that thing out and running. as mentioned before, mine soaked in gunk for 3 full days to limber up.
also I had trouble with sufficient fuel a while ago, I should have started at the gas tank with the troubleshooting. there was periodically some gas being pumped but not enough ,long enough. there was something that looked like cotton between the sediment bulb and tank. with the smallest tweezers I could get it out a small shred at a time. you wouldn't believe the amount that had gotten compresses into that little orifice. gas would leak through but not in sufficient volume while it was plugged up. where that came from I have no idea but assume it was similar to the cottonwood fluff floating around, had that happen one time in a boat motor gas tank too.
glad to hear you have the flap to the needle figured out which way is up. I could send you a schematic of the carb if you need it, it shows on the print which way the hinge needs to be orientated.
Den

 

[Den1952]

oops, I just remembered you said that you now have a schematic for that carb. sorry.
as for the time that my sediment bulb had been the trouble along with the dirty carb, I had needed to unscrew the bulb assembly in its entirety from the tank to access that plugged inlet to the sediment bulb. not much room in mine for swinging a wrench, a real pain but do-able.

 

[canucklehead]

thanks Den1952. Do you remember how many turns out you tweaked the piston pump screw?

 

[Den1952]

I had set it to minimal. enough to keep the pump piston from springing out of the bore.

 

[btwncentres]

I'm sure you can get that pump piston moving again...give the penetrating oil time to do its thing.

Hi... I had the same stuck piston problem. My solution was to soak in cleaner for a few days....I then heated it with a heat gun...starting low on casting while squirting with WD40....hoping to thermal wick oil down...I ground needle nose vice-grips to fit...tapped lightly a few times on piston....clamped on grips and twisted....voila....now I just have to get P/O damaged screws free at emulsion block...ugh.

 

[btwncentres]

I had set it to minimal. enough to keep the pump piston from springing out of the bore.

Hi....That screw is just to aid assembly. In most cases adjusting screws are spring loaded so that they don't vibrate from their setting. Idle screw would be an example. Also the amount of adjustment afforded by that screw is too minimal to matter. When carb is together look down throat and give pump a quick push downwards. You should see fuel spurt from pump jet.